How to replace Reverse Gate cable

[Ilmmct]

Yep ... I am the mechanically challenged brother. My brother with the skills is in NJ. He would have this thing apart and fixed by now.

 

[fairpilot]

Job completed in great timing, replaced both steering and Reverse cables. I must give Julian and others a great big thanks for making this job easy, had both steering and reverse changed in 5 hrs. All working smooth as glass. Cant wait to get it in the water for a real test.

 

[Julian]

Job completed in great timing, replaced both steering and Reverse cables. I must give Julian and others a great big thanks for making this job easy, had both steering and reverse changed in 5 hrs. All working smooth as glass. Cant wait to get it in the water for a real test.

Glad it went smoothly! Where did you get the cables and how much were they?

 

[Scuba_ref]

I'll be attempting this exact update in a couple of weeks. Got the cables now just need to get the boat back from the glass shop - they are fixing the rotten floor issue around the table receiver in the cockpit floor.

 

[fairpilot]

I purchased the steering cables at Marine Parts Source for $121 for starboard (part #TF-SSC21918 and $123 for Port (part#TF-SSC21919)
I Purchased the Reverse gate cables at iboats.com Part # CCX63317 $38.53 each

These were for 2006 SX 230, if you have 2007 or later i believe the part numbers will be different

 

[Rick Owens]

OK, I completed this job today, and it took WAY longer than it should have due to some unforseen challenges and that I'm anal and like to go slow. I began at 10:15 (boat covered) and finished at 3:30 (boat covered).

The cables I ordered were TELEFLEX CCX 63317 or TELEFLEX CC63317 for my 2005 (same part#--the one with the X is the latest version of the cable). I bought them from iboats.com for $44 each. Search for "3300 xtreme control cable", then chose the 17' version and you'll see this part number appear...their search doesn't find the part number! Here is a direct link (buy it from the vendor with the best price plus shipping--which for me was iboats--shipping was FAST TOO):

http://www.iboats.com/3300-Xtreme-Control-Cable-17-Teleflex-Marine/dm/cart_id.980701067--session_id.912360446--view_id.169426

I used the service manual Hull and Deck schematics for my 2005.

I'm used GVANs step by step and enhanced it with photos....See the photos with directions here:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10200509625414855&set=a.10200509624694837.1073741826.1584386227&type=3&theater


1 Buy the TELEFLEX CC63317 cable, not the Yamaha OEM F1C-U149C-01-00 cable to save $$. (iboats had it on sale for $38 while my local Yamaha dealer wanted 149.99 for the OEM cable)

2 Remove the 4 screws from the plastic binnacle cover, then remove the cover (mine was a PITA to get off--there are 4 little pins in each corner that hold it on).
View attachment 45
You can just see the pins in this shot..the left pin is off, the right pin is still holding the cover down....
View attachment 46

Then remove the 4 screws holding the binnacle in place. The shift binnacle housing did not come out easily after removing the screws. Be patient and wiggle it out.
View attachment 47

3 Remove the three long screws that hold the two binnacle housings together. (this was where I had a 1-1.5 hour ordeal as someone before me had sheared off a screwdriver tip in one of these screws--I was able to rotate the two binnacle to loosen it up--took me a while to think of this--This pissed me off so much I stopped taking photos...so the next bit has no photos! Sorry)


They are two separate housings.
View attachment 48

Remove the two screws holding the plastic cover plate on. Pry off the E-clip that retains the shift cable (the shift cable is the marked with "A" on the photo below), so the shift cable is free to remove. The slide the throttle cable out from the bottom ("B" in the photo), followed by the plastic spacer. Don’t lose the spacer in between the shift and throttle cables as these cables enter the binnacle housing. Then remove the shift cable.
Attachment:
View attachment 49
binnacle.jpg [ 67.22 KiB | Viewed 216 times ]

3a. Loosen the nut holding the connector on the end of the cable, then unscrew the connector (count the number of rotations it takes to remove the connector - and put it on the new cable with the same number of rotations)

Now I have a 2005, so accessing the space between the under seat section and the bilge area is easier as I have a storage hatch and access plate. So I fed the cable from the under seat section, forward to the binnacle hole easily, then fed the new cable back to the bilge are easily also. I did need my wife to grab the cable through the clean out hatch tray. In hind sight it is probably easier to fish it from the stern all the way forward....but this worked ok for me.

4 Need to remove the bilge hatch cover where the cleanout cans are. There are a bunch of screws. To get the cover / hatch out of the way, I had to disconnect the drain hose clamp once all screw are removed

5 I pulled rear of the old cable into the inside of the hull / bilge area prior feeding the cable from the front. You will need to cut some zip ties to get the old cable out. So be sure you have some new ones to secure the new cable.

6 Thanks for emphasizing that the cable ends (front / rear) are indeed different and I avoided feeding the new cable through backwards thanks to you. THIS COMMENT BAFFLED ME...I CAN SEE NO DIFFERENCE in the cable ends.

This is how GVAN did it....I didn't join the cables and just fished it on its own.
7 To connect the old cable to the new one to feed it from the shift area to the stern, I put a 3 inch small hose over two cable ends including the small nuts on each end (old and new). Then I used small tie wraps to tighten the small hose so the cables would stay connected. Then I used electric tape to cover the hose and tie wraps where the old/new cables connected to prevent snags while feeding the cable. I had my wife push/feed while I pulled. No problems. If it gets snagged, wiggle it while pulling/pushing but don’t force it…you don’t want the cables to come apart.

7a Undo the reverse gate--this is tricky if you don't know how the clip works. It is spring loaded and takes a thumb nail or a screw driver to get it squeezed together (see the photos).
View attachment 50
View attachment 51


Once you have the gate disconnected, remove the connector (count the rotations to get it off), then the nut, then the boots, plastic hull cover, washer and white plastic clip (that looks like a white plastic washer but is actually a clip-see the photo below) and push the old cable into the boat.
View attachment 52
View attachment 53


7b thread the new cable out, and re-assemble (see the photo). Again, put the connector on with the same number of rotations.

8 You need to put silicon on the inside of the hull where the cable comes through the hull.

9 Then re-assemble the boat (clean out tray back in --that is so much fun)

There are more photos in the Facebook album and more comments on the photos as well. Overall, this wasn't that hard--I'm sure fishing the cable in the 2007+ models or the 210s would be harder and will require taping the old and new ones together. Hope this helps someone! I prefer pics!

 

[Rick Owens]

I am fixing to replace my cable. How do you tell the difference between the front and back of the cable? They look the same to me.

 

[Julian]

6 Thanks for emphasizing that the cable ends (front / rear) are indeed different and I avoided feeding the new cable through backwards thanks to you. THIS COMMENT BAFFLED ME...I CAN SEE NO DIFFERENCE in the cable ends.

There was ZERO difference in the cable ends of the cables I bought and installed. I have a feeling for older models there might have been. (the text in lower case was my quote of the original directions that I used)

 

[Julian]

I have updated the original post to clarify that there was no difference in cable ends on my 2005 cables.

 

[fairpilot]

Replaced mine there was no difference though i did spend 30 minutes inventing things i thought were different

 

[Scuba_ref]

Bummer, I installed mine backwards and took them out to do it right!

 

[TommyMcK]

This thread saved me a ton of dough. I tried living with super stiff shifting (had to literally punch the throttles to get them out of neutral, which made for some exciting dock experiences) but eventually the port side cable busted. Oddly, the shaft at the binnacle end broke clean in half. I'd have thought that the plastic parts would have busted first.

Anyway, it took about two hours to change out both shift cables armed with the information from this thread. The only things that I would add are:

1. I found that it was easier to run the cable from outside in. On the recommendations here, I did the port cable from the binnacle back but found it very difficult to make the final bend out through the hull. The bend was just a bit too much given the length of the shaft at the end of the cable. I managed it, but it was a pain. I did the starboard side in the opposite direction and found it easier to grasp the cable end and pull it around the obstructions at the stern of the boat. I'm sure that the details vary depending on the year of the boat though, so I can't say that my experience is universal.

2. On my boat, the clean-out access hole was small enough that it took real dedication to get my arm in far enough to reach the through-hull holes. See if you can find a kid or gal to help out. Otherwise, expect some scrapes.

I'd have never tackled this without the info in this thread. Thanks a bunch. For what it's worth, I think that I didn't quite get the gate adjustment quite right. The starboard throttle vibrates at speed. I'm pretty sure that this is just because the gate isn't raised entirely out of the flow in forward. No biggie. It's a 2 minute adjustment next time I go out.

Thanks again...

 

[Tom Duignan]

This thread saved me a ton of dough. I tried living with super stiff shifting (had to literally punch the throttles to get them out of neutral, which made for some exciting dock experiences) but eventually the port side cable busted. Oddly, the shaft at the binnacle end broke clean in half. I'd have thought that the plastic parts would have busted first.

Anyway, it took about two hours to change out both shift cables armed with the information from this thread. The only things that I would add are:

1. I found that it was easier to run the cable from outside in. On the recommendations here, I did the port cable from the binnacle back but found it very difficult to make the final bend out through the hull. The bend was just a bit too much given the length of the shaft at the end of the cable. I managed it, but it was a pain. I did the starboard side in the opposite direction and found it easier to grasp the cable end and pull it around the obstructions at the stern of the boat. I'm sure that the details vary depending on the year of the boat though, so I can't say that my experience is universal.

2. On my boat, the clean-out access hole was small enough that it took real dedication to get my arm in far enough to reach the through-hull holes. See if you can find a kid or gal to help out. Otherwise, expect some scrapes.

I'd have never tackled this without the info in this thread. Thanks a bunch. For what it's worth, I think that I didn't quite get the gate adjustment quite right. The starboard throttle vibrates at speed. I'm pretty sure that this is just because the gate isn't raised entirely out of the flow in forward. No biggie. It's a 2 minute adjustment next time I go out.

Thanks again...

I'm about to change both gate cables and both steering cables on a Yamaha SX210, (year 2010). this forum was a great help! Thank You

 

[Julian]

I'm about to change both gate cables and both steering cables on a Yamaha SX210, (year 2010). this forum was a great help! Thank You

Feel free to post up any questions if you have any....we are here to help!

 

[Tom Duignan]

Feel free to post up any questions if you have any....we are here to help!

OK, Thanks. While I am waiting for the new steering and gate/reverse cables to be delivered, I decided to remove the old ones. It appears that the steering cables should be removed, with cord attached, by pulling them towards the bow. It appears that the reverse cable should be removed by pulling towards the stern because of the respective end connections. Is this correct? Also, does anyone know the size of the nut outside the stern that locks in the steering cable? Is it SAE or metric? I'm not at the boat right now and want to bring correct tools because it's difficult to reach with the jet pump in the way.

Thank You,

Tom

 

[Julian]

I've only done the reverse gate cables....I don't think it makes any difference which way you pull them. That said, I pulled mine towards the stern. If you have 2 people it is pretty simple. Don't recall what the sizes were of the nuts....

 

[Tom Duignan]

[QUOTE="Julian, post: 264552, ]I've only done the reverse gate cables....I don't think it makes any difference which way you pull them. That said, I pulled mine towards the stern. If you have 2 people it is pretty simple. Don't recall what the sizes were of the nuts....[/QUOTE]

Yes, I got one reverse cable out that way and it was easy. The steering cables have an approximate four or five-inch stainless steel shaft on the end that attaches to the steering box and I think that rigid shaft would make it difficult to snake through the path it must go if I try to bring it out through the stern so I'm going to try pulling it out from the box going towards the bow so the shaft is out first. As for the nut size, I guess I'll just bring every wrench that I have! I'll post when I get the cables.

Thanks again,
Tom

 

[Bruce]

I pulled mine from the stern to the console. I changed both steering and reverse bucket cables. The difference in control was huge. I would recommend that everyone change both.

 

[Tom Duignan]

[QUOTE="Julian, post: 264552, ]I've only done the reverse gate cables....I don't think it makes any difference which way you pull them. That said, I pulled mine towards the stern. If you have 2 people it is pretty simple. Don't recall what the sizes were of the nuts....

Yes, I got one reverse cable out that way and it was easy. The steering cables have an approximate four or five-inch stainless steel shaft on the end that attaches to the steering box and I think that rigid shaft would make it difficult to snake through the path it must go if I try to bring it out through the stern so I'm going to try pulling it out from the box going towards the bow so the shaft is out first. As for the nut size, I guess I'll just bring every wrench that I have! I'll post when I get the cables.

Thanks again,
Tom[/QUOTE]

 

[Tom Duignan]

Yes, I got one reverse cable out that way and it was easy. The steering cables have an approximate four or five-inch stainless steel shaft on the end that attaches to the steering box and I think that rigid shaft would make it difficult to snake through the path it must go if I try to bring it out through the stern so I'm going to try pulling it out from the box going towards the bow so the shaft is out first. As for the nut size, I guess I'll just bring every wrench that I have! I'll post when I get the cables.

Thanks again,
Tom

[/QUOTE]

Wow, just realized that my earlier question about the size of the nut outside the steering cable was already addressed on page one. It is a 7/8 and the gentleman used what he called a "pass through socket". My apology to the author.

Tom