• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Impeller and drive shaft. front seals between impeller & duct. REPLACEMENT EXPLAINED

dan144k

Jetboaters Commander
Messages
738
Reaction score
423
Points
182
Location
Palatine, IL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2010
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
I went to replace my impeller in the fall and ended up replacing my drive shaft because the threads got chewed up during disassemble.

I have reassembled but not water tested, attempting verify my work I did was done correctly.
Another post I have shows the press I made with some threaded rod.

Hoping someone has better details or actual factory descriptions or pictures.
I have searched online and YouTube and found very little specific information

The (service manual) provided very little information regarding replacing the drive shaft, and also shows a simple picture of the two oil seals.

1. I went off old shaft and measured for pressing in the new shaft.
2. The oil seals had metal faces on both, trying to verify correct install and assembly

(I placed metal faces on the outside away from center Part 12,13)
-I think I assembled it wrong -they both should face toward the rear of the boat
-Also when I took seals out of the parts bags- I lost track of which went to which bag.

Thanks in advance for the help
I am sure this is simple for somebody who frequently works on these parts

IMG_20141108_205513_643.jpg
 

Speedling

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
5,051
Reaction score
4,219
Points
397
Location
Cedar Lake, IN
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2008
Boat Model
SS
Boat Length
21
I haven't done this (yet) but I would think that 12 and 13 kinda sit against each other in a way to lock each other in place, with 2 acting as a kind of pressure seal?
Sorry, figured I would try it out, but I don't have the pumps apart this winter... yet, lol
 

Murf'n'surf

Jetboaters Admiral
Staff member
Administrator
Messages
6,536
Reaction score
5,118
Points
462
Location
Naples Florida
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2005
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
23
Sorry, I'm no help on this.

This pic is trying to show orientation of the seals but I don't understand it.
image.jpg
 

dan144k

Jetboaters Commander
Messages
738
Reaction score
423
Points
182
Location
Palatine, IL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2010
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
Well I found some more info on the seals. Info may not be exactly for our boats, but I think Yamaha uses a standard design.

I put my seals in wrong, will need to correct over winter.

website link
http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10901

pdf download shows the details

upload_2014-11-12_7-52-9.png
 

Attachments

Last edited:

txav8r

Jetboaters Admiral
Staff member
Administrator
Messages
6,590
Reaction score
3,263
Points
412
Location
Lake Ray Roberts, Texas
Boat Make
Boatless
Year
NA
Boat Model
Other
Boat Length
NA
That illustration if the manual may make sense to someone, but not to me either. After reading the additional info you found, placing the two spring ring sides together makes sense, since at least one of the seals, the flat face certainly seals against the duct. And the other would seal against part #2. If this detail could be added to one of the already saved member tips on impeller change, it might be helpful @Julian
 

dan144k

Jetboaters Commander
Messages
738
Reaction score
423
Points
182
Location
Palatine, IL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2010
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
Part 13 is a thinner seal (rear seal) (right in all pics)
part 12 is a thicker seal, Has a lip on it,
( I think lip lays flat {compress's outward} when assembled. (forward seal position)
Part #2 would then (looks like washer) compress the seal lip outward

When the two seals are in front of you it looks like the rubber sides would interlock.
(I am pretty sure this is wrong)

I asked the dealer and they did not have a better manual or information available.
Dealer has same pictures we have. Did not have good answer

Also dealer tech told me to use anti-seize or never-seize on the impeller threads.
I showed him in manual where it shows to use loctite 567, He said to use the never-seize. Just an FYI

STILL SEARCHING FOR AN EXACT ANSWER from someone about seals???

IMG_20141121_165346_987.jpg
IMG_20141121_165302_337.jpg IMG_20141121_165308_815.jpg IMG_20141121_165253_112.jpg
 
Last edited:

dan144k

Jetboaters Commander
Messages
738
Reaction score
423
Points
182
Location
Palatine, IL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2010
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
I figured out the only way to verify for 100% the front seal direction.
Remove the the other pump and take the impeller off and visually verify.

If anybody has or is taking their impeller off, Please take a picture of front seal.
 

Cobra Jet Steering LLC

Jetboaters Admiral
Vendor
Messages
4,735
Reaction score
4,376
Points
367
Location
Florida
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2021
Boat Model
Other
Boat Length
Other
Check with www.sbt.com they have tutorial sections to help people since they sell all sorts of parts including pump rebuild kits.
 

txav8r

Jetboaters Admiral
Staff member
Administrator
Messages
6,590
Reaction score
3,263
Points
412
Location
Lake Ray Roberts, Texas
Boat Make
Boatless
Year
NA
Boat Model
Other
Boat Length
NA
Do you have pictures of the recesses that the seals sits in? Seals generally have to be driven or pressed into whatever they seal. I haven't done the job your doing so I don't have first hand experience with or a visual of the job. But the seal is designed to seal. And only one side is a seal, and the other side is a firm surface to be pressed or driven. My guess is the soft flanges (seal) face apart, not together. And that they are sealing from each direction. But again, I am guessing and reading the manual shows the spring sides together and that implies to me, that the firm sides are facing each other, thereby putting the sealing sides away from each other. Seeing what they seat in would be a confirmation to me if the tutorials that Jeff mentions don't provide more assurance. I know how you feel though, it is hard to tackle a job and come across uncertainties!
 

dan144k

Jetboaters Commander
Messages
738
Reaction score
423
Points
182
Location
Palatine, IL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2010
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
Well I pulled the other impeller to look at the seal and took some pictures.
Appears as if rubber part of seal faces the front of the boat.

Both Seals OPEN rubber part faces the front of the boat.
And the part numbers from yamaha/manual/online/diagrams all show which seal goes in first.

The washer or part #2 which goes in front of seals and behind the impeller has a recessed part on the rear side.
----My guess is that the gap allows room for the lip on the seal----

IMG_20141122_160847_272.jpg IMG_20141122_160856_114.jpg IMG_20141122_160740_725.jpg IMG_20141122_160734_271.jpg IMG_20141122_160720_022.jpg
 
Last edited:

dan144k

Jetboaters Commander
Messages
738
Reaction score
423
Points
182
Location
Palatine, IL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2010
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
Last edited:

buckbuck

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
3,527
Reaction score
4,650
Points
377
Location
Illinois
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2008
Boat Model
X
Boat Length
21
Nice engineering. Hang on to that I may need it some day.
 

buckbuck

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
3,527
Reaction score
4,650
Points
377
Location
Illinois
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2008
Boat Model
X
Boat Length
21
How many hours do you have on those seals? I don't have experience determining if they are bad or not but judging by the pictures they don't look good.
 

dan144k

Jetboaters Commander
Messages
738
Reaction score
423
Points
182
Location
Palatine, IL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2010
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
Hi Jim

Boat has 120 hours.
The seal pictures posted 11-22-14 were from the starboard pump (nothing wrong with it), I disassembled mainly to visually verify seal position.
Only took 20 minutes to pull apart. 4 housing bolts (14mm), 1 steering bolt (11mm), break the impeller loose (chain vise and 24" crescent wrench)
- Items for reassembly
1. Gonna use to verify driveshaft position (depth) when I press port side back together
2. Grease the seal that is exposed
3. never-seize the impeller threads
4. Check jet intake silicone and repair as needed
5. Pull cone and check grease, maybe blow out old grease and repack it.

Summary- I ended up ruining my driveshaft. When I went to remove impeller, port side; the threads between impeller and driveshaft got destroyed on both items. I had to replace the port driveshaft and was installing a different impeller anyhow. Was told when I replace the driveshaft to inspect the bearing and replace the seals. When I assembled and rebuilt the unit I was unsure of oil seal position and guessed/assembled (wrong) so I ordered a second set of seals and took everything apart, and finally got accurate info to seal position. Now I have to reassemble everything on both pumps. But I have all winter. Wanted to make sure all was correct to avoid problems/ broken boat, next summer.
 

txav8r

Jetboaters Admiral
Staff member
Administrator
Messages
6,590
Reaction score
3,263
Points
412
Location
Lake Ray Roberts, Texas
Boat Make
Boatless
Year
NA
Boat Model
Other
Boat Length
NA
It may be back through the thread, but how did you destroy the impeller/shaft threads? Glad you got it all corrected and figured out the seal orientation!
 

dan144k

Jetboaters Commander
Messages
738
Reaction score
423
Points
182
Location
Palatine, IL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2010
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
When I was disassembling to install a different pitched impeller.
The threads crossed and gouged between the impeller and driveshaft.
Don't know why, just happen.
 

dan144k

Jetboaters Commander
Messages
738
Reaction score
423
Points
182
Location
Palatine, IL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2010
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
I put the boat back together today, had both pumps out, both impellers removed, and one driveshaft/seals removed. Went together well.
Took some more pictures and information for driveshaft position after pressing into the housing.

Drive shaft sticks out 22" from housing to the front, and the lip sits slightly bellow the raised edge (guessing 1/32"), picture shows strait edge across face.
I put never-seize on the impeller threads (dealer mechanic recommend). Manual says to use loctite 567 (white paste)
Also greased the seals and pulled cones and checked bearings and grease levels and condition.

Seal summary.
Both go in with metal part at back of boat, and open rubber seal open to the front of boat.
Thinner seal go into housing first
Thicker, looks like a double lip, seal goes to front of boat. Washer behind impeller pushes on seal.
Flat part of washer against the back of impeller.
IMG_20150227_111357_962.jpg IMG_20150227_110809_750.jpg IMG_20150227_111203_748.jpg IMG_20150227_111357_92_shaft strait edge.jpg
 
Last edited:

itsdgm

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
3,476
Reaction score
2,425
Points
327
Location
Rancho Santa Margarita, California
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2007
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
21
Great info @dan144k thanks for taking the time to post this. I'm sure it will save several headaches for a lot of guys.
 

Scottintexas

Jetboaters Admiral
Staff member
Messages
5,054
Reaction score
4,782
Points
407
Location
Corinth, TX (DFW)
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2007
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
23
added to the FAQ
 
Top