Speaker Replacement Size

[GoodCubanito]

2016 Yamaha 242 Limited S: Question:

I would like to replace the OEM speakers with better ones? What is the size of speakers I am looking at? Any recommendations out there?

Thanks,

 

[Sotally Tober]

I replaced all 6 and added 2 with 6.5 Wetsounds Revo's:

REVO 6 XS-B-SS | Wet Sounds High Output Component Style 6.5" Marine Coaxial Speakers

Wet Sounds’ marine stereo systems and equipment provide crisp, high-quality audio that’s loud enough to be heard whether you’re fishing a local pond, water skiing on a lake, or tubing on the ocean. Enjoy unparalleled protection from water damage with Wet Sounds’ state-of-the-art equipment.

www.wetsounds.com

Fit matched perfectly.

 

[GoodCubanito]

Thank you Sotally...

 

[jocolo21]

Replaced all wetsounds with jl havent even touched the water yet,

 

[Julian]

2016 Yamaha 242 Limited S: Question:

I would like to replace the OEM speakers with better ones? What is the size of speakers I am looking at? Any recommendations out there?

Thanks,

And once you've done that you'll want to add speakers at the helm!

https://jetboaters.net/threads/easiest-way-to-add-amplify-music-at-the-helm.12049/

https://jetboaters.net/threads/post-a-photo-of-your-mid-cabin-speakers.21592/

 

[JBehrens]

You can upsize to JL 770's and enjoy the upgrade in quality or stay with 650's and enjoy the upgrade in quality without having to cut. 6.5's are stock size, the 7.7's sound better, If you are not a huge audio guy then sticking with the 6.5's might be a good call.

 

[GoodCubanito]

You can upsize to JL 770's and enjoy the upgrade in quality or stay with 650's and enjoy the upgrade in quality without having to cut. 6.5's are stock size, the 7.7's sound better, If you are not a huge audio guy then sticking with the 6.5's might be a good call.

How hard is to replace the OEM with those? Any new cabling needed?

 

[JBehrens]

Not hard, just have to take a dremal and upsize the holes if you go 770's. 650's are a direct replacement. I used stock cable and mounted my amp right next to the headunit, probably should have ran new cable but the stock wire has worked out so far.

 

[GoodCubanito]

Not hard, just have to take a dremal and upsize the holes if you go 770's. 650's are a direct replacement. I used stock cable and mounted my amp right next to the headunit, probably should have ran new cable but the stock wire has worked out so far.

Thanks a lot...so, which amp did you use and how did you connect it to the head unit? Not very savvy when it comes to electronic installations... as you might have guessed!

 

[JBehrens]

Thanks a lot...so, which amp did you use and how did you connect it to the head unit? Not very savvy when it comes to electronic installations... as you might have guessed!

No problem, I went with the JL M600/6 wired with 4 speakers and 1 sub. I think the 242's have 6 speakers so you could use the same amp and be fine, unless you have or are adding a sub. The 190's use a standard 1din head unit which I replaced for a Kenwood and ran the amp on the built in preouts (designed for driving an external amp). I can't remember how the Conext system interfaces with amps but I think there is a writeup on here somewhere, many have added amps to the 242's, I think there are RCA preouts under the helm but someone can correct me if I'm wrong.

Here is my setup, should give a little better picture of how the amp is setup.

Mod 3: JL Audio
I love music. High quality audio is really important to me so the stereo got some attention without breaking the bank. Yes I know JL is expensive but I wanted to install something that was going to last and provide fantastic sound so JL was the clear winner. Went with a pair of MX650’s for the bow, MX770’s for the cockpit (area around the fiberglass is easy to enlarge in the cockpit but MX770’s will not fit in the bow) a single MX10IB sub and a M600/6 to power everything. Decided to upgrade the head unit to the Kenwood KMR-M325BT, best bang for the buck head unit on the water IMO, all digital design with no measurable distortion at full volume means that anyone in the boat can turn it all the way up without hurting the system. Called Creative Audio and got good pricing on a package of JL equipment (thanks @Dean P and @B Frank for the recommendation).

Tips/Lessons learned: 1. It might be me but IB subs and the 190 just don’t play well, not a lot of room for installation and my location of the helm console flexes a ton during bass heavy songs and does not allow the sub to hit as low as it can. 2. Common grounds are key, had this horrible buzz until I moved the ground from the stereo HU to the amp (thanks @swatski for the fix). 3. Fiberglass sucks and it takes weeks to clean it all up.

Overall result: One good sounding boat.

JL Conversation: https://jetboaters.net/threads/are-jl-amps-worth-it-options-for-non-ib-subs.21434/
Sub Location: https://jetboaters.net/threads/where-to-put-the-subwoofer-on-a-sx190.21655/
Fixing the hiss: https://jetboaters.net/threads/houston-we-got-a-hiss.22791/

JL MX650: JL Audio MX650-CCX-SG-TB: 6.5-inch (165 mm) Cockpit Coaxial System Titanium Sport Grilles
JL MX770: JL Audio MX770-CCX-SG-TB: 7.7-inch (196 mm) Cockpit Coaxial System Titanium Sport Grilles
JL MX10IB: JL Audio MX10IB3-SG-TB: 10-inch (250 mm) Marine Subwoofer Driver Titanium Sport Grilles 4 Ω
JL M600/6: JL Audio M600/6: 6 Ch. Class D Full-Range Marine Amplifier 600 W
Kenwood KMR-M325BT: Amazon.com: Kenwood KMR-M325BT Marine Digital Media Receiver with Bluetooth: Sports & Outdoors
Kenwood Remote: Amazon.com: Kenwood KCA-RC35MR Remote for KMR700U/550U/350U: Sports & Outdoors
Bluetooth Remote: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FBQ3PCF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Marine Power/Speaker wire: KnuKonceptz - Home and Mobile audio accessories, including amp installation kits and speaker wire
Blue Seas 150Amp breaker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051OWRHE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
SMD DD1 Tuner (YES it is worth it): SMD Distortion Detector DD-1
Fiberglass, OH CRAP I’M ABOUT TO CUT HOLES IN MY BOAT, Cutting Encouragement: Mountain Cold Refreshment. Made to Chill │ Coors Light

Installed the 150A breaker and ran 4G OFC power wire into the batteries

Mounted the M600/6 to the wall behind the bow back rest using 1inch bolts and acorn nuts, (had to drill out the seat back to make room but it works).

Installed the remote at the helm

Made some holes...

Best advise for drilling from @Drift Away :

 

[Street glide]

Was thinkn of using the same head unit when I do my set up have you had any problems with it or the remote

 

[JBehrens]

Was thinkn of using the same head unit when I do my set up have you had any problems with it or the remote

If you are looking at the Kenwood KMR-M325BT its the way to go. Haven't had any issues with it or the remote, I went for the basic remote and kind of wish I had gotten the one with the screen but I hear some have had issues with that one. The deck as a whole is really hard to beat for $100, no measurable distortion at full volume (tested with both an SMD-DD1 and an oscilloscope).

 

[Street glide]

Thanks I was thinkn about the one with the screen but had also heard of people having trouble with it

 

[JBehrens]

Thanks I was thinkn about the one with the screen but had also heard of people having trouble with it

My friend put the remote with screen on his Rinker a few years ago and hasn't had an issues but his is by the helm. I think if it was on the swim step there might be a problem.

 

[Street glide]

Tha6s what I hear too is that the basic is better if you going to put it on the swim platform