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Subwoofer location in 212 models or similar 2012-2014??

@octavio3311 you think we have these rings installed??
 
These baffle rings are all over eBAY. Again, they are made of mdf, and not birch wood
If $18 is TOO MUCH, then here is one (tho' I feel not quite as good in the finishing) for $14.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pro-Woofer-Spacer-Ring-Subwoofer-Speaker-Box-Enclosure-Added-Mounting-Depth/321299909005?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=20131003132420&meid=ceb9215d425346069bd240214b403cd5&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&mehot=ag&sd=251702148455&rt=nc

Keep in mind, that once coated completely with epoxy resin, and mounted securely with boats and nuts (also holding in place your subwoofer), these baffle rings are JUST AS EFFECTIVE as a "birch" baffle ring. Hope this helps some of you.

Best Wishes to everyone, Mikey Lulejian - Lake Occonee, GA
 
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MikeyL,
MDF is water soluable and fiberglass resin is micro porous. Epoxy resin is an improvement over polyester resin but is still not a total watertight sealer. In fact, if you remove the gelcoat from a boat, and expose the resin impregnated chopped fiberglass hull, the boat will sink.
Birch is a solvent based material. Plus, someone went to the trouble to resin coat it for added durability.
I like to see things done the right way.
Can you make any of these parts cheaper as projects on your own? Sure. But you need to factor in the bulk materials, the unused waste, quarter sheet of birch, quart of resin, whether two-part or with catalyst, the disposables such as cups, brushes, router double-sided tape, towels, clean up, solvents, and so on, not to mention your travel and procurement time and tools. And before you have actual begun to built anything.
 
Well David ........ Thank you. For less than $30 (the overall GRAND TOTAL COST), I got a great end result. I had fun doing it. It took maybe an hour total, including ordering on-line, cutting the tabs, the time in Home Depot to buy the epoxy, and the epoxying itself. And many people who saw it, including several professional installers, gave me high remarks for the quality of installation.

So for $30, and an hour of my time, I am very pleased with my results and what I created. For my BOAT.
Actually . I am THRILLED !
Mike Lulejian - Lake Oconee, GA

PS - I sincerely hope what I wrote helps others achieve the same feeling and results of a successful project.
 
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One last dumb question, the ballast bags don't mess with the sub? Sound any different with the bags filled/empty
 
Another vote for behind the captain's chair, below the bench (as pictured a couple times above).

I did use a ring. I was (wisely) counseled to the birch or a plastic one. For cost, I went with an MDF, but use several of the cans of spray paint that I had in the garage. I think I put about 8 coats on it before putting it in. Might it fail? Sure. But not yet... I keep an eye on it. And if it does fail, I think the one I got was like $5 or something silly like that.
 
Medium Density Fiberboard. Probably the best stuff to make a speaker enclosure with.......in a car. It soaks up moisture like a sponge, and expands like cardboard when it does. I'm sure if you do a good job waterproofing it you're ok.
 
What is MDF and why does it sound like cancer here

Think of it as pressed and course paper constructed with a water soluable adhesive.
Once it gets wet it absorbs water like a sponge and expands. Once it expands and dries it is even more porous so it deteriorates faster with each wet/dry exposure cycle. Eventually it loses all structural integrity and simply flakes apart.
It should never be used for any amplifier mounting panel or other similar use in a boat. Again, it's water-based and breaks down.
There are far better materials to use for a sub enclosure, materials that are constructed with solvent-based adhesives and are rated for exterior use, which might include Baltic Birch, Medex, MDO, Extira, etc.
Many still use MDF for a subwoofer enclosure. But actually if your execution in building a sub enclosure is done properly and you mount it correctly you can get somewhat better protection. With a sub enclosure you can elevate it off any surface as to provide for instant drainage and evaporation. In contrast, if coated MDF is allowed to rest against or on top of any surface that traps water, moisture will be wicked into the MDF no matter what type of resin sealer you use.
MDF is so porous it is used with vacuum to hold an MDF template together with an MDF part while it is being routered. Enough air vacuum will pass directly through MDF.
 
My friend uses this mixture epoxy for his cut outs? Any thoughts?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO0YQU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Dezdvb0X1QB2M

If you are talking about sealing the newly cut hole edges in fiberglass then I feel this is definitely worth doing. Whether a marine epoxy, Marine Tex, or even 3M marine silicon, I demanded this as part of every installation. It is an integral part of the installation procedure on every motor yacht. I see no reason not to follow suit on any boat.
 
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