Wakesurfing Ballast on Swim Deck - Air Intake issue?

[swatski]

I did my rv with the West Maine stuff and is totally awesome. With a 7.3psd just inches com my knees it needed something. http://joegorm.com/soundproofing_the_cab_and_doghouse.htm

I did my old c3500 dually with dynamat and that also made a huge difference.
http://joegorm.com/stereo_and_dynamat_install.htm

Then I learned how too make my own dynamat for a fraction of that cost and I did my crown vic.
http://joegorm.com/2003_crown_vic.htm

I don't think mass absorption (dynamat) materials will do anything on a boat. If you don't here reverberation when you hit it with metal, it won't do anything. If you do here it, it you hand nearby and see if you still hear it. If you do, mass absorption won't do anything to help.

@Jgorm I love it! This may be what I've been looking for - for the sides of the engine comp. The 1" foam sheets are the bomb! And - knowing you tend to be frugal - I like the recommendation even more, and have no issue spending on the west marine sheets - well worth it at the end given heat testing.

I also agree on the dynamat. It may do wonders on sheet metal. But does not do much plastered on top of raw fiberglass, I think it really is just the wrong mass "ratio" (in the latter). Doesn't hurt either but I have come to believe a sound absorbing materials or even carpet may work better.

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[swatski]

Finally finished with the install of my Stainless Steel air filters to replace the factory boxes.
I'm not going to mess with any CAI, at least for now.
The fit is almost custom. And it doesn't hurt to be legal (after ribbon delete one technically needs flame arrestors albeit it's kind of bs).



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[swatski]

I still want to do something about those stupid little blowers, they really are useless AND annoying.
AND they take up and block off one of only two small fresh air intakes into the engine compartment.

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[Julian]

Just be sure you keep the blowers pulling air out of the bottom of the engine compartment.....their purpose is to remove gas fumes (heavier than air) from the bottom of the boat. Reversing this would result in less efficient removal of fumes. Also, be sure to use sealed blowers for marine engine compartments to reduce any spark potential.

 

[swatski]

.....their purpose is to remove gas fumes (heavier than air) from the bottom of the boat...

You mean: their intended purpose!
In reality they don't pull worth shit, pretty much useless - but loud.
I have left them be for now.


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[Julian]

You mean: their intended purpose!
In reality they don't pull worth shit, pretty much useless - but loud.

I've not tested their capacity, but if they can move 50 CFM (which is pathetic indeed - most 3" are rated for 170CFM), and the hoses are at the bottom of your bilge, that would be 150 cubic feet of gasoline fumes removed in the event you have a leak.....that would substantially change the explosive nature of your boat! So yes...this is their intended purpose, not as an air input for your engines.

 

[swatski]

I've not tested their capacity, but if they can move 50 CFM (which is pathetic indeed - most 3" are rated for 170CFM), and the hoses are at the bottom of your bilge, that would be 150 cubic feet of gasoline fumes removed in the event you have a leak.....that would substantially change the explosive nature of your boat! So yes...this is their intended purpose, not as an air input for your engines.

Thanks for clarifying that, Julian! I feel so much safer.


EDIT: Note to self: gasoline leaks - bad.
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[Julian]

EDIT: Note to self: gasoline leaks - bad.

Which is why one of the first mods on a new to me boat is to install a fume detector - pretty cheap insurance for $150 to help ensure you don't blow yourself and family up! (sorry for going so far off track on the OP's topic...air intakes).

 

[gmtech16450yz]

Nothing wrong with being extra safe, but the truth about fuel fires in boats is that it's the LEAST likely cause of boat fires. Electrical is number one, and for good reason. You guys that are putting multiple amps in your boats and wiring them yourselves are greatly increasing your odds of a boat fire. I worry WAAAAAYYYYY more about electrical fires than I do fuel fires, mostly because I've seen probably 10 times as many.

Fuel/spark used to be the MOST likely cause of boat fires, back when engines had carburetors, points and condensers. Guys would throw a car engine in a boat and not realize that things like the distributor cap with the little door in the side for setting the point gap also provided the entire engine compartment with access to the giant sparks created in both the primary and secondary ignitions. Add in a carburetor that inherently has fuel particals as high as a couple feet above the open bore, and also a float bowl that's open to the atmosphere, you have a HUGE chance of blowing up a boat.

That's why engine compartment blowers came about. Sure, there's nothing wrong with having them there, but for the most part they are a holdover from a previous generation of boat powerplants. Fuel vapors coming off a fuel injected engine are practically non-existent assuming it's working properly. It's literally the law because of emissions regulations. And as far as working properly, the chances of modern fuel supply systems leaking is also extremely rare. Now add in the ignition systems being well designed and sealed and you also don't have the ignition sources you had long ago.

Sorry for the rant. lol. MY opinion from MY experience is if you want to worry about a fire in your boat, the chances of an electrical fire are WAY higher than a fuel fire. I've seen at least half a dozen boats burned up and worked on more car fires than I can count. Engine compartment blowers wouldn't have stopped or prevented a single one of those boat fires and I'd say 90% of the car fires I've worked on were caused by electrical issues. Out of the 90% of car electrical fires, a very large percentage were from added on accessories like stereos and amps.

 

[Jgorm]

@gmtech16450yz totally agree. Same thing with spark arrestors. They had a purpose on 2 stroke carb engines but when is the last time you saw a 4 stroke fuel injected engine backfire? (Aside from nitrous) On carb engines the entire intake manifold is full off explosive ideal afr mixture. not so with fuel injection. I think it was a carry over from motorcycles where you might start a bush fire, but boats had 2 strokes too and the idiot regulators never reevaluated the requirement.

 

[swatski]

Same thing with spark arrestors. They had a purpose on 2 stroke carb engines but when is the last time you saw a 4 stroke fuel injected engine backfire?

exactly right

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[swatski]

if you want to worry about a fire in your boat, the chances of an electrical fire are WAY higher than a fuel fire.

x100

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[Eric Ballard]

Finally finished with the install of my Stainless Steel air filters to replace the factory boxes.
I'm not going to mess with any CAI, at least for now.
The fit is almost custom. And it doesn't hurt to be legal (after ribbon delete one technically needs flame arrestors albeit it's kind of bs).
View attachment 68197View attachment 68198
View attachment 68199View attachment 68200

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@swatski Where did you get the Stainless Steel air filter? I really don't like the factory air box. Have you been able to tell if there is more noise or better performance with these? I haven't read this whole thread, but will in the morning.

 

[swatski]

@swatski Where did you get the Stainless Steel air filter? I really don't like the factory air box. Have you been able to tell if there is more noise or better performance with these? I haven't read this whole thread, but will in the morning.

Right on! https://jetboaters.net/threads/air-filter-upgrades-performance-vs-sound.16687/#post-287513

Please consider @WildCatFan54's suggestion, he found what may be the go to filter.

May want to wait to get the testing results back, too, shouldn't be too long.

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[Eric Ballard]

Right on! https://jetboaters.net/threads/air-filter-upgrades-performance-vs-sound.16687/#post-287513

Please consider @WildCatFan54's suggestion, he found what may be the go to filter.

May want to wait to get the testing results back, too, shouldn't be too long.

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I have my air filter off right now to add some sound deadening. I'm defiantly watching for the results.

 

[swatski]

I have my air filter off right now to add some sound deadening. I'm defiantly watching for the results.

If you are already doing some sound deadening better don't throw that factory filter out!
There may or may not be a lot to gain. Are you planning to go for a ride with the filter off - to see how she runs?

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[Eric Ballard]

If you are already doing some sound deadening better don't throw that factory filter out!
There may or may not be a lot to gain. Are you planning to go for a ride with the filter off - to see how she runs?

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Yes, I thought about getting out soon to see how much gain I get with no filter just to see-and to test my noise canceling installs.....

 

[Jgorm]

I've seen and done lots of dyno testing with air filters. It's rare for any performance gains. Take the filler off and do a test to see if there is an improvement. Loads of boats don't even run an air filter.

 

[Eric Ballard]

I'm not really looking a lot of gain. I'm more interested that it make adding sound deadening material on the bulkhead where the factory filter box is mounted. I also really hate how the factory air box is mounted.

 

[swatski]

I'm not really looking a lot of gain. I'm more interested that it make adding sound deadening material on the bulkhead where the factory filter box is mounted. I also really hate how the factory air box is mounted.

You know you can just pull those boxes off of the bulkhead bolts - without unbolting anything, right? There are rubber flanges - just pull the filter boxes off, no unbolting.

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