What did you do to your boat today?

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thanks for the info! I do think I got the cover on in such a way that it will stay put. Fingers crossed. As for the leak, that amount of water getting isn't going to cause the boat to, like, sink...is it?

The battery is on so the bilge pump should activate as needed, right?

How did your bilge pump take care of the water that you mentioned above in post #829? Did it happen manually or automatically? You should test your bilge pump at least annually by putting in the drain plugs and filling the bilge with a hose, also pop the bilge pump out of its base to check for debris. As far as the automatic bilge function and your battery, check your owners manual on how the bilge pump operates and what position the battery switch needs to be in. The late model boats started coming with the auto side of the bilge pump wired directly to the battery.

Follow the leak chasing @drewkaree suggested to chase down your leaks, I’d venture most of the water is coming in while you are underway via the clean out tray and mechanical access hatch, some could be getting in via the anchor locker drain as well. Seal and Peel is an easy way to seal up the clean out tray. As @Cobra Jet Steering LLC and others have suggested, try using a toilet seal wax gasket material on the seal of the clean out plug to make it seal well,going to try that myself here soon.

I know logistically you have some challenges, but you might want to consider adding another bilge pump in your boat for redundancy and capacity.

Glad to see you are making it out on the water!

 

[Babin Farms]

Cleaned the engine bay and tested both bilge pumps.

 

[Babin Farms]

Had my son install the new bow roller.

 

[Ribs77]

How did your bilge pump take care of the water that you mentioned above in post #829? Did it happen manually or automatically? You should test your bilge pump at least annually by putting in the drain plugs and filling the bilge with a hose, also pop the bilge pump out of its base to check for debris. As far as the automatic bilge function and your battery, check your owners manual on how the bilge pump operates and what position the battery switch needs to be in. The late model boats started coming with the auto side of the bilge pump wired directly to the battery.

Follow the leak chasing @drewkaree suggested to chase down your leaks, I’d venture most of the water is coming in while you are underway via the clean out tray and mechanical access hatch, some could be getting in via the anchor locker drain as well. Seal and Peel is an easy way to seal up the clean out tray. As @Cobra Jet Steering LLC and others have suggested, try using a toilet seal wax gasket material on the seal of the clean out plug to make it seal well,going to try that myself here soon.

I know logistically you have some challenges, but you might want to consider adding another bilge pump in your boat for redundancy and capacity.

Glad to see you are making it out on the water!

So, I noticed the bilge working automatically as we were bringing the boat into the slip. When I noticed that there was water in the ski locker, I turned it on manually and it pumped a bit more water out. So there must be a bit of a range between where it senses that it "needs" to come on and where it can accumulate before that happens.

One thing I noticed is that the connection for the flush-out hose (in the compartment in the swim platform) is a little loosey goosey. I sealed that up today with some silicone and I got a separate hose attachment that should be easier to install as-needed without cranking on the attach point as much.

There was a bunch of water on top of the cleanout plug today when I took a look (the boat is in my driveway now, so it must have been from before) if that helps narrow down the water intrusion.

Another thing I did the other day was install my cobra fins. Pretty straightforward, but I was a little concerned that not enough of the main vertical bolt was sticking up from above the articulating keel for the top nut to latch onto. I used a bit of threadlocker as recommended, but it seems like a nylon nut without enough thread to actually engage the nylon. Probably fine, right? I'll post a pic later.

 

[Jdl110]

I wanted to try to do an electric tower as the speakers on the tower are a bit heavy to lower the tower with 1 person and holding it without hitting them on the windshield. We used 2 500lb heavy duty slow moving actuators hooked up to a 2 channel remote control system. The actuators are thru and side mounted for shear force protection. We made sure that the retracted position of the actuators still requires a manual push to the flush position so pull force isn’t present when screwed down and tight. . Overall i think it’s going to work great for going under lower bridges

Also added some new LED accent lights inside the boat to go along with the speaker LEDs and disconnected the radio from the connext screen changing to an RA 770 main unit and ERX swim platform remote
Added push button starts for the motors and 1 shutoff button that kills both engines

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

So, I noticed the bilge working automatically as we were bringing the boat into the slip. When I noticed that there was water in the ski locker, I turned it on manually and it pumped a bit more water out. So there must be a bit of a range between where it senses that it "needs" to come on and where it can accumulate before that happens.

One thing I noticed is that the connection for the flush-out hose (in the compartment in the swim platform) is a little loosey goosey. I sealed that up today with some silicone and I got a separate hose attachment that should be easier to install as-needed without cranking on the attach point as much.

There was a bunch of water on top of the cleanout plug today when I took a look (the boat is in my driveway now, so it must have been from before) if that helps narrow down the water intrusion.

Another thing I did the other day was install my cobra fins. Pretty straightforward, but I was a little concerned that not enough of the main vertical bolt was sticking up from above the articulating keel for the top nut to latch onto. I used a bit of threadlocker as recommended, but it seems like a nylon nut without enough thread to actually engage the nylon. Probably fine, right? I'll post a pic later.

Yes, nylock nuts don’t work unless the bolt protrudes fully into the nylon, a fastener nut should be completely full.

The water on top of the clean out plug is pretty normal. In case you didn‘t know, you should remove the clean out plug when you come off the water at the same time you pull the drain plugs. That top tray in that area is probably where most of the water is getting in.

That’s good your bilge pump was working automatically… and yes, once the internal float on the bilge pump bottoms out it shuts off, you can usually get some more water out by running it manually but most comes out with the automatic function.

 

[Jdl110]

I wanted to try to do an electric tower as the speakers on the tower are a bit heavy to lower the tower with 1 person and holding it without hitting them on the windshield. We used 2 500lb heavy duty slow moving actuators hooked up to a 2 channel remote control system. The actuators are thru and side mounted for shear force protection. We made sure that the retracted position of the actuators still requires a manual push to the flush position so pull force isn’t present when screwed down and tight. . Overall i think it’s going to work great for going under lower bridges

Also added some new LED accent lights inside the boat to go along with the speaker LEDs and disconnected the radio from the connext screen changing to an RA 770 main unit and ERX swim platform remote
Added push button starts for the motors and 1 shutoff button that kills both engines

I wanted to try to do an electric tower as the speakers on the tower are a bit heavy to lower the tower with 1 person and holding it without hitting them on the windshield. We used 2 500lb heavy duty slow moving actuators hooked up to a 2 channel remote control system. The actuators are thru and side mounted for shear force protection. We made sure that the retracted position of the actuators still requires a manual push to the flush position so pull force isn’t present when screwed down and tight. . Overall i think it’s going to work great for going under lower bridges

Also added some new LED accent lights inside the boat to go along with the speaker LEDs and disconnected the radio from the connext screen changing to an RA 770 main unit and ERX swim platform remote
Added push button starts for the motors and 1 shutoff button that kills both engines

Links to some videos of the LEDs and actuated tower

April 29, 2024

youtube.com

April 29, 2024

youtube.com

April 29, 2024

youtube.com

 

[Ribs77]

Yes, nylock nuts don’t work unless the bolt protrudes fully into the nylon, a fastener nut should be completely full.

The water on top of the clean out plug is pretty normal. In case you didn‘t know, you should remove the clean out plug when you come off the water at the same time you pull the drain plugs. That top tray in that area is probably where most of the water is getting in.

That’s good your bilge pump was working automatically… and yes, once the internal float on the bilge pump bottoms out it shuts off, you can usually get some more water out by running it manually but most comes out with the automatic function.

So here's a picture of the nut from the top and the bolt from the side. You can see that with the bolt going all the way down to the top of the articulating keel, there's not enough thread on top to go through the nylon.

That said, I did add some threadlocker compound to both the top and bottom (well, more like the middle, where it threads through the U-shaped piece that holds the keel) of the bolt as instructed.

Should I back out the bolt a bit and try to get the threads all the way through the nut? I anticipate having a difficult time doing that without gripping the bolt from the bottom somehow, and potentially messing up the threads.

Or could I add some more threadlocker to the threads just below the nylon to sort of gum them up and discourage any loosening? HALP

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

That nylock nut is useless that way, both as a locking nut, and as a fastener securing device as there isn’t a full nut full of threads. Its hard for me to tell what is going on there as I can’t see the full picture of what is going on.. but if those two flat washers weren’t there there might be enough bolt to penetrate the nut and the nylock sufficiently.

If this bolt and its instructions were part of the steering fins you bought then you need to speak with the seller to find out what the course of action should be. Looks to me like the bolt should be longer, but, again, I can’t see everything that is going on.

 

[Ribs77]

I went to undo this bolt today and possibly remove a few washers to see if I could get it to thread through the nylon, and...

The threadlocker is really doing its job. I didn't crank SUPER hard, but I gave it a good wrench and it didn't want to budge. So I'm just going to call that good and leave it alone.

Haven't been able to get it out of the driveway and back into the wet slip due to general busy life stuff. Hoping to maybe do it today or tomorrow, though!

In the meantime, I fixed a check engine issue on my minivan (other end of the spectrum from the boat in terms of fun vehicles ) by replacing the spark plugs and installing a VCM muzzler. Pretty straightforward job, but they sure don't leave you a lot of room to reach the back 3 cylinders...

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I went to undo this bolt today and possibly remove a few washers to see if I could get it to thread through the nylon, and...

The threadlocker is really doing its job. I didn't crank SUPER hard, but I gave it a good wrench and it didn't want to budge. So I'm just going to call that good and leave it alone.

Haven't been able to get it out of the driveway and back into the wet slip due to general busy life stuff. Hoping to maybe do it today or tomorrow, though!

In the meantime, I fixed a check engine issue on my minivan (other end of the spectrum from the boat in terms of fun vehicles ) by replacing the spark plugs and installing a VCM muzzler. Pretty straightforward job, but they sure don't leave you a lot of room to reach the back 3 cylinders...

To get a thread locker to break free use a heat gun. I’ve dealt with that many times. Get your tv fixed and get back on the water!!!

 

[Ribs77]

The only fix I needed to do was (possibly) make this nut tighter, but I think it's tight enough. Planning on getting back on the water as soon as someone can help me launch/dock!

I think I can actually solo launch it myself now after a few tries, but I haven't tried docking in the wet slip solo yet. Hoping that with the cobra fins the slow speed steering will make it possible.

 

[Acard7]

Removed the clean out tray to inspect any areas I need to add more sealant. Found my port gate cable is ready to be replaced. Thankfully I have one on hand because I bought two when I replaced the starboard side. The port side throttle really isn’t that stiff either but at least I’m catching this early. Didn’t have time to do it today due to weather moving in, so I removed the silicone to prepare whenever the weather wants to cooperate.

 

[Ribs77]

Took the boat out with the fins today and they made a huge difference in handling. Which was sorely needed as I initially pulled into the wrong lane at the marina and had to turn fully around

Was a frustrating time at the launch, however, because the little key that blocks the surge brakes from activating when I back up is hard to get in sometimes. It's like, you pull forward to release the brake thing, but every time you stop it partially re-engages and makes it hard to get the key in there and make it stay. I actually have a velcro strap I wrap around it for when I need to back into the driveway, but sometimes I get into a situation where I just can't get the thing to open far enough to get the key in.

Any tips for that situation?

Oh, also, I had zero water in the ski locker and bilge after my run today! I think the little bit of sealing I did around the hose port may have done the trick. Fingers crossed.

Oh, one other question. Should I pull the cleanout plug when I'm leaving the boat in the wet slip? Or is that just for when it's going to be on a trailer?

 

[drewkaree]

Took the boat out with the fins today and they made a huge difference in handling. Which was sorely needed as I initially pulled into the wrong lane at the marina and had to turn fully around

Was a frustrating time at the launch, however, because the little key that blocks the surge brakes from activating when I back up is hard to get in sometimes. It's like, you pull forward to release the brake thing, but every time you stop it partially re-engages and makes it hard to get the key in there and make it stay. I actually have a velcro strap I wrap around it for when I need to back into the driveway, but sometimes I get into a situation where I just can't get the thing to open far enough to get the key in.

Any tips for that situation?

Oh, also, I had zero water in the ski locker and bilge after my run today! I think the little bit of sealing I did around the hose port may have done the trick. Fingers crossed.

Oh, one other question. Should I pull the cleanout plug when I'm leaving the boat in the wet slip? Or is that just for when it's going to be on a trailer?

Surge brake lockout magnet link - click me

Just get the 2-pack, and don't ask me how I know you'll eventually misplace the first one

Good to hear your successes!

Cleanout plugs don't come out while the boat is in the water, except to clear the impeller if you get something caught up

 

[1WetBoat]

Took the boat out with the fins today and they made a huge difference in handling. Which was sorely needed as I initially pulled into the wrong lane at the marina and had to turn fully around

Was a frustrating time at the launch, however, because the little key that blocks the surge brakes from activating when I back up is hard to get in sometimes. It's like, you pull forward to release the brake thing, but every time you stop it partially re-engages and makes it hard to get the key in there and make it stay. I actually have a velcro strap I wrap around it for when I need to back into the driveway, but sometimes I get into a situation where I just can't get the thing to open far enough to get the key in.

Any tips for that situation?

Oh, also, I had zero water in the ski locker and bilge after my run today! I think the little bit of sealing I did around the hose port may have done the trick. Fingers crossed.

Oh, one other question. Should I pull the cleanout plug when I'm leaving the boat in the wet slip? Or is that just for when it's going to be on a trailer?

Apologies, I'm a bit confused.
Why are you using the surge brake lockout key when you back up?
It is supposed to be deactivated electrically when you put your vehicle in reverse via the 7 pin connector?

 

[Thermobrett]

So here's a picture of the nut from the top and the bolt from the side. You can see that with the bolt going all the way down to the top of the articulating keel, there's not enough thread on top to go through the nylon.

That said, I did add some threadlocker compound to both the top and bottom (well, more like the middle, where it threads through the U-shaped piece that holds the keel) of the bolt as instructed.

Should I back out the bolt a bit and try to get the threads all the way through the nut? I anticipate having a difficult time doing that without gripping the bolt from the bottom somehow, and potentially messing up the threads.

Or could I add some more threadlocker to the threads just below the nylon to sort of gum them up and discourage any loosening? HALP

View attachment 219051

View attachment 219052

Regularly check your nozzle and keel bolts/nuts. I had one drop out and lock my keel in port direction only. Difficult to outrun a storm when you can only drive like a Nascar driver… I’m guessing this was due to no thread lock and vibration over time.

 

[Ribs77]

Apologies, I'm a bit confused.
Why are you using the surge brake lockout key when you back up?
It is supposed to be deactivated electrically when you put your vehicle in reverse via the 7 pin connector?

I wish it did that. For some reason, it just doesn't. Maybe it's because I'm using an adaptor from a 4-pin connection? My towing vehicle is a 2011 Toyota Highlander Hybrid.

If there's a way to do this automatically I'd be all for it.

 

[zipper]

Yesterday, Loaded up the truck with provisions, motors, etc.




OB motors are in and ran on the hose. Most of cushions and the table are in.
A new companionway screen door. She needs to finish the binding on the outer edges.

 

[drewkaree]

Apologies, I'm a bit confused.
Why are you using the surge brake lockout key when you back up?
It is supposed to be deactivated electrically when you put your vehicle in reverse via the 7 pin connector?

@Ribs77 posted what was the only suggestion I could think of - his reverse pin was wonky, either through corrosion or bad wiring, but I didn't consider the adapter.

I think the brake actuator requires a 5-pin hookup, or the round 7-pin. It never even occurred to me that he'd have a 4-pin!

If that 5-pin connector is correct, could someone chime in and verify that? It's a guess on my part, and it'd be great to confirm it