Cover between Clean Out Ports

[1BadTundra]

I made mine out of 2 cutting boards as well.

 

[drewkaree]

I made mine out of 2 cutting boards as well.

I can't say enough how much I love the blue. Really, any color other than white, because it's easy to point out what you're talking about, to someone unfamiliar with the cleanout tray - "it's the hatch on top of the blue oval".

 

[1BadTundra]

LoL, the boat is blue, the cutting boards are cheap.. it was an easy decision. I like how it turned out.

 

[FLJetBoater]

Anyone have any tips/tricks to getting the large bilge access tray off? I've taken the clamps off the ports and all the screws out but it seems that it's glued or something to the ports themselves. I don't want to pull too hard because I feel like I'll pull the port right off the bottom connection.

 

[lazergeek]

Anyone have any tips/tricks to getting the large bilge access tray off? I've taken the clamps off the ports and all the screws out but it seems that it's glued or something to the ports themselves. I don't want to pull too hard because I feel like I'll pull the port right off the bottom connection.

There are the hose clamps for the cleanout tubes and the drain, but they are also silicone in the hoses too, I had to use a screwdriver around the hoses to get them out. The tray is also silicon in too. The tray can leak even with silicone. I used neoprene weatherstripping on mine since I seem to get in there frequently.

 

[FLJetBoater]

There are the hose clamps for the cleanout tubes and the drain, but they are also silicone in the hoses too, I had to use a screwdriver around the hoses to get them out. The tray is also silicon in too. The tray can leak even with silicone. I used neoprene weatherstripping on mine since I seem to get in there frequently.

Yeah it’s definitely free around the edges where the screws were. It’s the actual spot where they sit in the ports that won’t move. I’ll try with a thin scraper and see if I can free it.

 

[lazergeek]

Yeah it’s definitely free around the edges where the screws were. It’s the actual spot where they sit in the ports that won’t move. I’ll try with a thin scraper and see if I can free it.

I stuck my hand down the cleanout port with a flat head screwdriver and worked my way around the top inside edge with that to break it loose.

 

[drewkaree]

Yeah it’s definitely free around the edges where the screws were. It’s the actual spot where they sit in the ports that won’t move. I’ll try with a thin scraper and see if I can free it.

The rubber tubes are supposed to be adhered with silicone as well as the tray itself. If you have run something under your cleanout tray to break the tray seal, the silicone on the tubes should be the only thing left holding it on, since you undid the hose clamps. Remember to re-silicone them when installing again.8

 

[zipper]

The rubber tubes are supposed to be adhered with silicone as well as the tray itself. If you have run something under your cleanout tray to break the tray seal, the silicone on the tubes should be the only thing left holding it on, since you undid the hose clamps. Remember to re-silicone them when installing again.8

Especially with the "blow by" of water with the newer design of the clean out plug seal that we have been seeing lately. Mine may have been hard to install or pull out but a dab of silicone grease from our swimming pool tools would always fix that. I never had water sitting on the plugs caused by blow by. This is the stuff I used on the plugs. https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-SPX0...=9003034&hvtargid=pla-350620587513&th=1&psc=1

 

[kgower]

Link to the riser ?

It's an easy install.

 

[heyrolled]

The cover gives you access down into the bilge area. It is supposed to be removable. Yamaha did a HORRIBLE job at sealing this area up on my 2020 AR240. I was getting gallons of water in my bilge every outing. Water was not splashing over the deck on deceleration. If I went hard reverse, I could get a tiny amount pushing up from the drain, not enough to make any difference. All the water was coming past the clean out ports. How do I know this? I stuck a GoPro video in there and recorded it. Youtube link below.
I would remove the entire cover as seen in the photo. Clean up the area, and reseal. I also added the access port riser from Jetboatpilot. I filled the area with water and plugged the drain with my finger and can confirm it is now water tight up to the top of the access port.

View attachment 170892

I have this same leaking issue on my ‘22 AR210. When you re-install the cover, do you add silicone to seal between the clean-out ports and cover, too? I think I’ll also add the riser while I’m at it.

 

[ImHowl]

I have this same leaking issue on my ‘22 AR210. When you re-install the cover, do you add silicone to seal between the clean-out ports and cover, too? I think I’ll also add the riser while I’m add it.

Yes. Add some type of silicone sealant. I used 4200. When it dries, plug the overboard drain and fill with water to check for leaks.

 

[lazergeek]

Just use silicone, anything else will make you wish you didn't next time you need to get back threre for maintenance. I used neoprene weatherstrip as I open that area up at least once a season and didn't want to mess with sealant every time.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I have this same leaking issue on my ‘22 AR210. When you re-install the cover, do you add silicone to seal between the clean-out ports and cover, too? I think I’ll also add the riser while I’m at it.

If your boats clean out tray area relies on the drain then you need to leave that intact.
install the access riser, this will help greatly in keeping water from getting in that way.

You seal the clean out tray AFTER, I’ll say that again, AFTER the clean out tray is installed. If you put sealant in between the tray and the boat you will play he’ll trying to get it apart !!!!

You can use silicone sealer or I think it is DAP makes a product called seal and peal which will make future access very easy. I have used silicone in the past and it works very well, but it takes time to remove it all to prep for resealing if I have to remove the tray to work down there.

Do not use 4200… that is a semi permanent sealer.

 

[Cambo]

I sealed the tray with neoprene gasket and more screws sealed the removable port the same way, my bilge has been dry every outing. I keep my winter shrink wrap and recover so not even rain water gets in. If you want to test to see how bad all that shit leaks put a cork or block off the drain raise the bow fill the tray with water from your hose and watch how fast it poors out the bilge drain, almost as fast as the hose fills it pours down all over everclamp. I'm in salt water and know that everything was being drenched before this was repaired. I also re siliconed my rub rail and capped off the pop up cleats. My multiple posts with pics are pinned in one of the threads. Dry bilge !!! I love fixing shit