Engine stalls on throttle up

[Steve Moyer]

Do you have a warranty on this boat? Sorry if that was stated already....

No the warranty ran out last feb. I had a friend check it in the data base. Its not a very expensive part. I found it online for $36.00

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Order it up and pull the fiberglass out of your forearms until the part arrives..... then dive back in!

 

[Steve Moyer]

Well, finally got it out of there. Had to spin the muffler down and slide it past the up tube. I hope I can get one back in. Here's another pic. Anyone ever see anything like it? I never got any overheating warnings or anything like that. Do you think I may have another problem that caused it? Also I think the hot water may have toasted the bilge pump.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Heres my analysis...... the clamp(s) were over tightened and caused the plastic to cave inwards. Over time, the heat caused the plastic to cave in further and further while the rubber hose followed. That allowed the water to escape into the bilge and the superhot exhaust started to melt the plastic because it was no longer cooling efficiently.

The only question I have is... Was this from the factory or did a dealer have their hands in there at one point?

 

[Steve Moyer]

Heres my analysis...... the clamp(s) were over tightened and caused the plastic to cave inwards. Over time, the heat caused the plastic to cave in further and further while the rubber hose followed. That allowed the water to escape into the bilge and the superhot exhaust started to melt the plastic because it was no longer cooling efficiently.

The only question I have is... Was this from the factory or did a dealer have their hands in there at one point?

I have to agree. Unfortunately I have no idea if it was factory or dealer. I'll try to call the previous owner tonight and find out. With that kind of damage I'm guessing its been that way for awhile. The boat only has 40+ hours on it so I'm going to guess it was the factory. I hope the replacement has a slightly lower profile cause it was a bitch getting it out of there. On the bright side I'm changing out all the slightly rusted hose clamps and getting intimate knowledge of my boat.
Oh yeah, and as for the fiberglass, Momma didn't raise no dummy. I had two sets of long sleeves.

 

[ToddW850]

Wow, that's wild. Glad you were able to narrow it down though.

 

[Steve Moyer]

Ha ha ha, more bad news. As I was closing out the parts diagram, I notices the little cushion (or rub) pads are seperate from the resonator. There are 4 of them @ $12.00 a piece. They cost more than the resonator and will come at least a day later. Geeezzuuuzz I guess I'll try to pry the old ones off and get some adhesive.

 

[Steve Moyer]

The picture below is of one very happy camper!!!! She is fixed 100%. I want to take a moment to thank all of you for your advice and encouragement. Particularly Murf, Julian, Itsdgm, Cobra, Addicted, Bruce, and Todd. Don't think I didn't appreciate the rest of you either. It truly took a village.

Insights for anyone else that may have a similar problem or have to change out the resonator.
Wear long sleeves. Fiberglass is painful.
For the port side, loosen the back clamp on the muffler in the "engine compartment" so you can turn the muffler down a little. Otherwise you will not be able to clear the outlet that faces up. Its tight in there.
I did not have to remove the blowout tube, but needed a second pair of hands to push it down and hold it out of the way. Spin the resonator clockwise as you get above the muffler and it will come out. Patience is key.
After getting the new resonator in and above the muffler, put the two hoses on before pushing it back into position, then connect the other ends to the muffler and outlet.
Use dish soap to help get them on, (Thanks Julian) Worked like a charm.
MOST IMPORTANT: The strap that holds down the resonator will come off. If it does, take the rear speaker out and you can reach in and access both sides of the hold down clamps.
If I think of anything else, I'll post it.

Thanks again guys. Now lets bring this thread to a close, finally.

 

[Julian]

@Steve Moyer AWESOME!!!! Another happy boating smile! The only thing I might do now is run her so she's hot an buy a laser temperature sensor and check all the exhaust pipes on both engines comparing temps between the one that melted and the one that didn't and make sure you haven't just treated the symptom. Would suck to just end up with another melted one in 20-40 hours!

 

[ToddW850]

AWESOME!!!

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Glad our village could help a brother out!

Cheers and happy boating!

 

[itsdgm]

That's awesome, glad that you're up and running.

 

[Steve Moyer]

Took it out again yesterday. Ran great!!! Ahh, the confidence of a good running boat can not be understated.

 

[Marvin Weatherholtz]

@Steve Moyer A couple of additional thoughts....

1. Change the plugs...these engines are sensitive to old/fouled plugs
2. could it be starving for air? This is a long shot, but we had someone who put speakers in the air vent holes to the engine compartment and then the engines would idle fine, but when running high rpm would starve for air (again, a long shot...easy to check)

Keep on giving us updates...we'll figure it out for ya! Also, if you add your location to your profile, you might find that someone close has a YDS cable they can hook up to the engines and see if they are throwing a code.