Repairing and Overhauling a 2010 242 LS (pic heavy)

[Ronnie]

Update: not related to the boat being refurbished but the donor boat, the rep at the local landfill aka dump clarified that at 24 feet long they will require that I buy their services to help get the hull off of the trailer safely. I expected as much, if I ran that business I would not be willing to take on that kind of liability for $200 per ton, especially if it involves vehicles playing tug o war or some random person anchoring the hull to the ground with shore spikes, supplemented by lube and a dream or mission.

i plan to call on a company that delivers a dumpster to me and will take it back loaded with trash. I purchased these services before when I redid my roof which involved tearing off the old ones. If the price is right I will be hosting sawing party in the backyard soon. I wonder what the bare hull weighs? I’m not there yet but plan to be soon.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

it will be interesting to see where the foam is and how much there is…

 

[Ronnie]

There is thin but dense foam on the underside of engine compartment hatch and behind the storage compartments on the upper swim deck. No foam under the fuel tank hatch, not sure where else but will report back as i find out. I recall that yamaha also changed out the material on some of the engine components to make them quieter but I don’t know if that’s true or if yamaha just wanted to use less expensive materials.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

There is thin but dense foam on the underside of engine compartment hatch and behind the storage compartments on the upper swim deck. No foam under the fuel tank hatch, not sure where else but will report back as i find out. I recall that yamaha also changed out the material on some of the engine components to make them quieter but I don’t know if that’s true or if yamaha just wanted to use less expensive materials.

I was thinking of the flotation foam that’s probably in there (?) to keep the boat afloat with a full load of people and cargo when swamped.

 

[Ronnie]

I was thinking of the flotation foam that’s probably in there (?) to keep the boat afloat with a full load of people and cargo when swamped.

I have not seen any additional foam in the donor boat so far, that is in addition to what came with my 2010 stock. I think if anything I may find foam strips or filler in the gunnels but that would be for sound and or vibration absorbing purposes not floatation.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I have not seen any additional foam in the donor boat so far, that is in addition to what came with my 2010 stock. I think if anything I may find foam strips or filler in the gunnels but that would be for sound and or vibration absorbing purposes not floatation.

I had a thought to add two in floor storage areas in my boat, fish boxes with drains, on either side of the CC…thought about getting one of those snake like cameras that attaches to my phone and looking in those areas to see if the storage lockers could be added.

It will be interesting to see inside the donor boat either way.

 

[Scottintexas]

I wonder if you could take the rub rail off and then hook the engine hoist to the top half and separate the deck from the hull to make destruction easier ??

 

[Ronnie]

I wonder if you could take the rub rail off and then hook the engine hoist to the top half and separate the deck from the hull to make destruction easier ??

I plan to look in to that further when I remove the rub rail but would be disappointed if I find that the rub rail is the only thing holding the top and bottom of the hull together, I’m expecting to find a lot of heavy duty adhesive.

 

[84rzv500r]

Id be intersted in seeing that

my boat is older but it only has RTV to seal the top and bottom halves together from the factory around the outer rim.... LOL i used structural epoxy, coosa board and fiberglass every where I could reach when doing the engine bay

 

[TimW451]

How much expandable foam would you have to pump into the hull to separate the top from the bottom? ? Now that would be a great video!

 

[Ronnie]

How much expandable foam would you have to pump into the hull to separate the top from the bottom? ? Now that would be a great video!

Sounds like a hell of mess and more material to get rid of. The local sheriff’s department has a boat / hill recycle program. One price if haz Mat is involved and a lower price if it is not. I will dig into this more soon, but I still need to transfer title into my name. FYI aaa won’t do it because of the out of state aspects.

 

[Ronnie]

I confirmed that the windshield from the donor boat is too tall for the recipient boats frame, it only took me two hours to take take on side apart and reassemble it. Not the best way to start the day.

here are my options:

1. Purchase and probably wait for a new pane from my local yamaha dealer ($1,400ish).

2. Stay with the 2010 glass, even the shattered pane but self tint all pieces in place, on both sides to hide the cracks in the shattered pane.

3. Move the front three panes and the top of the frame from the 2017 to the side panes and bottom of the frame of the 2010, cut the 2017 frame top to match that of the 2010. Paint the bottom of the 2010 frame black top match the top of the frame. Also self tint the inside only.

Other than this, I spent the day stripping parts off the donor boat. I still have a few left to go.

 

[TimW451]

I’m mostly up on the seat bolster looking over the frame, even in no wake zones, so using tint to hold it together as long as you can seems reasonable. The biggest threat would be wave action, but I don’t think you experience that much.

 

[Ronnie]

I’m mostly up on the seat bolster looking over the frame, even in no wake zones, so using tint to hold it together as long as you can seems reasonable. The biggest threat would be wave action, but I don’t think you experience that much.

Thanks, I’m thinking the same things but realize that maybe I’m just being cheap. I also know that if I remove the broken pane it may be difficult or impossible to get it back in the frame.

Adding another $1,400ish right now is the last thing on my mind because I just paid for new upholstery skins last Thursday (over $3,000) and impact graphics (seadek for the hull) last Friday (over $1,000). I was hoping that the hull disposal fee was /is going to be the last big (over $500) expense.

this morning I am considering a hybrid solution. That is tint what I have as as short / medium term solution well as work on modifying the frame (top and bottom) of the 2017 for replacement of what I have in the future, as in the 2024 boating season. I won’t feel comfortable shipping the curved panes anyway and don’t mind storing the materials for future use.

Right now, I’m running against the clock. There is a lot of work left to do to get my boat ready for this season as well as get rid of the 2017 hull.

what is helping to keep me going is remembering how good it felt to get the boat back on the water last weekend, even without a seat and for less than 30 minutes. What’s keeping me up is being itchy. My cousin helped me strip the 2017 yesterday and in doing so he used the reciprocating saw on some of the interior fiberglass now my arms, which were exposed are itching. Being contorted in the helm and other compartments didn’t help either.

thanks to anyone who haa let me bend their vision by reading this far.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I confirmed that the windshield from the donor boat is too tall for the recipient boats frame, it only took me two hours to take take on side apart and reassemble it. Not the best way to start the day.

here are my options:

1. Purchase and probably wait for a new pane from my local yamaha dealer ($1,400ish).

2. Stay with the 2010 glass, even the shattered pane but self tint all pieces in place, on both sides to hide the cracks in the shattered pane.

3. Move the front three panes and the top of the frame from the 2017 to the side panes and bottom of the frame of the 2010, cut the 2017 frame top to match that of the 2010. Paint the bottom of the 2010 frame black top match the top of the frame. Also self tint the inside only.

View attachment 194175View attachment 194176View attachment 194177View attachment 194178Other than this, I spent the day stripping parts off the donor boat. I still have a few left to go.

Could you just take the glass to a glass shop and have them cut it down to fit?

If the glass is unavailable from Yamaha or the people who make the glass for Yamaha what about getting a sheet of acrylic to get you going for the season?

Itchy…. I hear ya on this! Look at getting a few Tyvek suits from Amazon, the ones with the hood, long sleeve solvent gloves and have someone duct tape the sleeves onto the gloves and have a good respirator. I got a few suits and respirators off of amazon for the transom work my friend and I are going to do on his gifted 1984 Wellcraft coastal this summer. The other suggestion is to have someone hold a shop vac right next to the saw blade while cutting, I was doing this for my friend when he was doing the cutting and that cuts that friable fiberglass dust way down. Or pay the $488(?) to have them pull the boat off the trailer at the dump and call it a good investment in your time and sanity.

 

[jmargo]

Adding another $1,400ish right now is the last thing on my mind because I just paid for new upholstery skins last Thursday (over $3,000) and impact graphics (seadek for the hull) last Friday (over $1,000). I was hoping that the hull disposal fee was /is going to be the last big (over $500) expense.

Who makes impact graphics for our older boats ? Jetboatpilot only shows 2012 and up and no 240/242.

 

[2kwik4u]

@Ronnie are you selling off parts from the old boat at any level? I've seen some of the bigger pieces (like the tower) in the for sale section, but don't immediately see a listing for generic/small parts. Have a couple pieces I'm looking to get to fix some damage on my '17. Should I PM you, or do you have a thread somewhere?

 

[Ronnie]

Who makes impact graphics for our older boats ? Jetboatpilot only shows 2012 and up and no 240/242.

I bought the 252 kit for my boat. Will I suggested I wait until they create a new template for the 242 but I don’t want to wait and think I can make the 252 kit work for me. I had the template customized to eliminate the 252 among other things.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

You should keep the boat in the backyard and hack it up to turn into an outdoor bar.

 

[Ronnie]

Could you just take the glass to a glass shop and have them cut it down to fit?

If the glass is unavailable from Yamaha or the people who make the glass for Yamaha what about getting a sheet of acrylic to get you going for the season?

Itchy…. I hear ya on this! Look at getting a few Tyvek suits from Amazon, the ones with the hood, long sleeve solvent gloves and have someone duct tape the sleeves onto the gloves and have a good respirator. I got a few suits and respirators off of amazon for the transom work my friend and I are going to do on his gifted 1984 Wellcraft coastal this summer. The other suggestion is to have someone hold a shop vac right next to the saw blade while cutting, I was doing this for my friend when he was doing the cutting and that cuts that friable fiberglass dust way down. Or pay the $488(?) to have them pull the boat off the trailer at the dump and call it a good investment in your time and sanity.

Thanks for the response. I was told since it’s all safety glass that it cannot be easily trimmed. Taylor made makes it all but I’m content with just tinting what I have now and trying to replace most of the assembly with parts from the donor boat in the future.

as for disposing of the hull, I needto complete the out of state title transfer processso first and foremost I need to make and appointment at the DMV. After the reminder about what a PITA it is to work with fiber glass (had to cut some parts like the transducer out) there is no way I’m cutting up and disposing of the hull myself. I’m either bring it to the landfill for around $700 or disposing through through the program my brother told me about, quote is tbd.