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SOLVED: anyone remove their intake duct (aka: ride plate)?

CrankyGypsy

Jetboaters Captain
Messages
352
Reaction score
297
Points
202
Location
Tampa, FL 33615
Boat Make
SeaDoo
Year
2008
Boat Model
Challenger
Boat Length
18
they have to come off because i'm doing some repairs. i'm having a heck of a time removing the large plates (not the small grates - those are both off).

i've cut away as much of the silicone out as i can along the bottom with a razor knife. on the vertical surfaces, i used guitar strings (wound and non-wound) to cut/slice down through the sealant like cheese. i've also used a syringe to inject 3M Adhesive Cleaner - though it fails to actually "inject" so i've done my best to "squirt" it between the surfaces, but it isn't penetrating deep enough like i had hoped.

anyone have any experience or better ideas at getting some separation between the gelcoat and aluminum plate mating surfaces where the 6 mounting bolts secure through it?

UPDATE: solution is here.
 
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I have no experience in this removal but will give you service manual pages that show the siliconed surfaces.

image.jpg image.jpg
 
Goodness! I looked at this when i was hoping to build an adjustable intake. Why are you doing this removal?
 
I'm thinking crow bar and a small plate to prop it against. Good luck.
 
Sorry, saw that it was for repairs, but is the piece itself busted?
 
I wonder about using a heat gun (hair dryer) or a chemical silicone remover to loosen up the silicone holding it on? If you used a chemical you would want to make sure that it does not harm gel coat.

Alternately you might consider hanging a weight under the ride plate that would apply constant pull to the plate.
 
2by4 in under the end of it and pull down evenly, it should come out if you have all the bolts removed. The 2by4 gives you leverage and won't harm the hull
 
really appreciate the input guys.

I did try leveraging it out, but it was only about a 3' to 4' long piece of 2x4. I was a bit worried about increasing the lever arm distance and ripping gel off, too. but if you've (@Cobra Jet Steering LLC ) done it without issue, I will give it another try. thanks.

the plates are intact. doing some FRP repair right next to one - skimmed off a submerged obstruction.
 
oh, also. I was planning to reseal with 4200 rather than silicone (bc it seems a lot of boaters recommend against silicone below the water line). what are your guys' thoughts on that?
 
4200 is very difficult to remove if you think it is hard to get the factory sealant to let go just try 5200 or 4200 and you will regret it.
I use marine grade silicon with no issues .
When you pry on the intake use a pulsating motion rather than a steady pull . Just be sure you have ALL the bolts removed and the intake grate removed. Come to think about it someone in the past may have done just that and now it is a beast to get the part loose.
 
@Cobra Jet Steering LLC
took a couple photos of my setups to clarify how you are able to do it. "in under the end of it" - i'm not 100% sure what that means, but this doesn't look to be that:
1.jpg
2.jpg
i'm prying by pushing down on the longer end in the second pic and i'm not getting any kind of movement at all. i tried to slide a 4x4 in there (because the 2x4 is flexing a lot), but it is too large. and by "pulsating," i'm assuming you mean "slightly bounce" the board?

also gave prying from the front a shot ...with no movement:
3.jpg 4.jpg
 
If this still won't get it to come loose someone used 5200 or similar product like silicon glue on it, you may need to heat up a long thin knife blade like an old kitchen knife and melt away the sealant by placing it between the metal and the glass pushing slowly and repeating the process to cut enough of the sealant to get it to release.
 
thanks again. i don't think it's 5200 or 4200 because it is clear.
this has become very frustrating. been trying the different methods that have been recommended and the sucker won't budge.
i'll post up the minute i get one off.

i've been working with a hot paint scraper, but i can't get it between the tight mating surfaces where the bolts went through. i've opened more room along the vertical seam though - the scraper drags a little silicon out at a time. this may allow me to get more adhesive remover deeper in there.

too bad these aren't two-part assemblies that allowed you to pry off the bottom plate section (levered against the top section). then you could easily slice out the actual intake portion with wire. would take 15 mins instead of a few afternoons.
 
Still not clear to me why you want to take it off.....what is "FRP Repair"
 
If I were in your shoes I might try tapping hack saw blades in between the hull and ride plate where possible. Remove them with a pair of pliers and hopefully you can saw through some of the sealant.
 
I can see the silicone surface area resisting the flexing force of a 2x4. I think you will eventually get there if you can keep running something between to split the silicone and reduce the surface area where it contacts. I'm not sure what I think of my own idea; but for some reason I thought of a fabric tow strap through the opening secured behind the boat to something like another car and then gently pulling (think the old midevil arm stretch routine). You would need to make sure it would not become a projectile and have some carpet or something on the ground.
 
Time to try something outside the box, if you have a good pressure washer see if you can blast the silicon out from between the parts.
 
good ideas.
thought about using the winch on the Jeep, but it just doesn't seem practical in application.
i like the pressure washer idea ...i've been wanting one.

FRP: fiberglass reinforced plastic.
sorry, should've just said fiberglass repair.
 
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You can just rent one for the day. A big bad nasty one HAAA
 
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