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Do you think spraying the inside with a rubberized coating would have helped? Flex Seal Plasti Dip Rustoleum rubber paint or something like that? I think I recall that you had to drill the boxes, or was that another project?
Those rubber surrounds help, but salt water seems to have a knack for helping itself cause more and more damage over time
Yes I had to drill holes for mounting and draining water. I didn’t spray the insides with anything other than paint. The rust wasn’t to the point that the integrity of the boxes was in question, just could see where it was coming out of a couple seams. Undercoating inside may have helped them from the light rust but a little bit of a rattle can a couple times a year made them still look new.
Didn't do this today, posting up a past project for @AZMark. Swapped the Shorelander OEM incandescent trailer lights for replacement LED versions from Amazon.
I would recommend LOW for your heat gun, or get a smaller wand-type of heat gun. I didn't have the wand type, and this was the first time I used these solder connectors. Pics show too much heat on the white wire. I added a half-round attachment to the heat gun, and turned it to low, and this project is what prodded me to get a wand-style heat gun for future electrical projects on the boat and for tight spaces.
I had thought that I added heat shrink over the connection as well, but pics show that I didn't. I did cut the wires of the old light to leave myself as much wire as possible for future repairs or replacement. Everything just shoves back into the trailer frame. Bolts match up with the OEM lights, so no drilling was required
Replaced factory stern all-around (anchor) light with this taller unit to clear new dome radar. Drilled out rivet you can see in the pic and put pole on the base of the factory (Perko) unit so I didn’t have to drill new holes in T-Top.
Cheers
Randy
This will absolutely be the last black hull boat I have. I was an idiot thinking I could have a black boat. Boat got caught in the rain a lot, and I had to put it back in storage wet. The waterspots were insane. Got them all off, but nearly had to bust out the polisher. Probably the last time we'll have the boat out this season due to all the other stuff going on in September. View attachment 238831View attachment 238832View attachment 238833
When the 2022 colors came out, I was the first to call our dealer and choose a color. I did ask if they offer an all white hull and his response was "I don't know, nobody has ever asked for just all white". Blue and white was the more attractive of the two options, although I was leaning towards red and grey for about 5 seconds, just so I could come up with some Ohio State reference as the name
This will absolutely be the last black hull boat I have. I was an idiot thinking I could have a black boat. Boat got caught in the rain a lot, and I had to put it back in storage wet. The waterspots were insane. Got them all off, but nearly had to bust out the polisher. Probably the last time we'll have the boat out this season due to all the other stuff going on in September. View attachment 238831View attachment 238832View attachment 238833
If they’re fresh water hard water spots they’ll come off very easy with a vinegar and water solution 1:1, spray on and use a soft brush wax on / wax off with very gentle pressure then rinse, no more hard water spots. Wax after that to help shed the water and the spots. The most stubborn area I’ve found is where the pilot water comes out, just a bit of extra scrub time here and they’re gone. I dry the hull and put on TEC 582 ceramic spray on wax and I’m good to go for about 10 outings.. but I also don’t sweat seeing some spots on my boat.
When I was in OK last year my friend got me a covered slip at his bougie marina for the week I was there, one day when I was walking up there was a wife and husband boat cleaning service was going to town on a fancy pontoon boat and it was obvious they were using vinegar and water solution to clean off all the hard water spots as well as the boat. They’d rinse, dry, then apply wax and or protectant.
If they’re fresh water hard water spots they’ll come off very easy with a vinegar and water solution 1:1, spray on and use a soft brush wax on / wax off with very gentle pressure then rinse, no more hard water spots. Wax after that to help shed the water and the spots. The most stubborn area I’ve found is where the pilot water comes out, just a bit of extra scrub time here and they’re gone. I dry the hull and put on TEC 582 ceramic spray on wax and I’m good to go for about 10 outings.. but I also don’t sweat seeing some spots on my boat.
When I was in OK last year my friend got me a covered slip at his bougie marina for the week I was there, one day when I was walking up there was a wife and husband boat cleaning service was going to town on a fancy pontoon boat and it was obvious they were using vinegar and water solution to clean off all the hard water spots as well as the boat. They’d rinse, dry, then apply wax and or protectant.
my boat is ceramic coated. I have hot sauce that I use for normal wipe downs. This stuff I had to break out my more serious water spot remover. If that wouldn't have worked I have a polish specifically for polishing out light defects in ceramic coatings and adding a light layer of ceramic coating to replace what you polish off. Which I didn't really want to do. So I'm glad I didn't have to go that route. I'm lucky in that I have impact graphics right where the pissers are, so I don't have to worry about those spots.
my boat is ceramic coated. I have hot sauce that I use for normal wipe downs. This stuff I had to break out my more serious water spot remover. If that wouldn't have worked I have a polish specifically for polishing out light defects in ceramic coatings and adding a light layer of ceramic coating to replace what you polish off. Which I didn't really want to do. So I'm glad I didn't have to go that route. I'm lucky in that I have impact graphics right where the pissers are, so I don't have to worry about those spots.
Okay, my boat had a Vantage ceramic coating when I bought it. When I contacted Vantage they sent me a gallon of the TEC 582 and told me that I could use the vinegar and water but to be sure and rinse it promptly and not to let it sit on there. The other way that the ceramic coating could be removed is with physical force as you describe.
I suggest you give the vinegar and water a try next time you have hard water spots.. its wayyyy cheaper that the bottles solutions. I know that stuff works well as I’ve seen it in action.
As long as you’re enjoying your boat and the process is all that matters.. get out and get some more spots on the boat!!!
I pulled the passenger side glove box off and reset the hinges solid. It never did work right. I always had to hold up the top door to get the bottom to close. It was the biggest source of random screws falling out. Hopefully it will never be a problem again.
After a lot of procrastinating. I finally got around to doing the cooling upgrade and the ribbon delete on my 15 FZS svho. Glad i did because there was a lot of caked up sand/debris in the cooling passages around the exhaust ports. Scraped it out and blew it all out. A ton of material came out. Glad i caught it before it caused a problem. Also replaced all the rusting clamps in the hard to reach spots.
This has a tight hull so the intake sucks to take out but just waiting for the intake and exhaust gaskets to get here today from slowpoke UPS.
