The Perfect Pass Thread

[JetPowered]

Since I have not seen any one thread discussing the Perfect Pass System, I figured it's time to start one.

I'm new to the system and am installing it myself, so I hope to add some notes from my install once it's completed. I encourage each owner of the Perfect Pass system to add information to this thread, especially if they had purchased it from the recent JetBoatPilot.com sponsored group buy. This way we can build up an FAQ of the product.

Let's start with the basics and I'll edit in the details later. Feel free to add Q/A commentary and I'll add it to the overview or install section:

Q> What is this Perfect Pass that I keep hearing so much about?
A> It's an electronic speed control that is GPS enabled and custom programable for various riders and riding activities including wake surfing, wake boarding, skiing, tubing, etc. Dial in your preset speed, throttle up and the Perfect Pass will hold your speed to within 1/10th mph of your preset speed.
More information about this system can be found on the Manufactures web site:

http://www.perfectpass.com

Q> Will this work on my twin Engine Yamaha?
A> It is available for both single engine and twin engine models.

Q> Does the Perfect Pass work on my new 2015 Yamaha boat?
A> At this time, it does not.

Q> Where do I mount the Perfect Pass?
A> The Perfect Pass will replace your existing Speedometer. It includes a GPS verified speedometer, so this is a significant upgrade to the older pitot tube speedometers.

Q> Will it match the gauges of my boat?
A> There are many different options and styles available. The manufacturers website has a list of example gauges here: http://www.perfectpass.com/?q=displays

Q> It's so shiny, I have to have one.
A> That's not a question, but since you insist you can get yours at the Perfect Pass website or from http://www.jetboatpilot.com

Q> How hard is it to install myself?
A> Perfect Pass states about four hours. You'll need minimal tools, but you need to be comfortable removing intake housings, removing spark arrestors or removing throttle wires. You'll also need to be able to find a 12V source and a ground under the dash.

 

[JetPowered]

(reserved for future installation instructions)

 

[JetPowered]

(reserved for future use)

 

[jcyamaharider]

Great topic @JetPowered , I will be sure to add my info once we put our perfect pass in middle of April.

 

[JetPowered]

I had begun my install yesterday on the starboard engine, so far so good. Also installed the speedo assembly in place of the factory unit. There are already a few supplemental items that I will note that differ from or clarify instructions sent from Perfect Pass.

Beware the edge of the metal throttle plates. I donated a little blood yesterday after a wrench slipped.

 

[Ziess21]

Here's a couple of install pics from our shop. I'll ask the tech to notate any tips that might be useful.

 

[Julian]

I installed PP a couple of years ago....love it....I call it "The Marriage Saver"!

The hardest part of the install for me was routing the throttle cables so there wasn't any friction on them. On my model boat, the starboard side would bind....I ended up making a big loop in the engine bay to avoid it binding.

I was lucky as I already had power and ground bar at the helm, so tapping into power was easy. BUT....I did try using their splice tap to begin with, and it failed after a couple of weeks....so I hard wired to my own bus bar and switch after that. Teach me for taking a short cut!

 

[jcyamaharider]

I bought this to aid in my install.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000THQ0CQ

I will be hooking perfect pass, chartplotter, led's, eq , bluetooth controller, and remote to it for power. Should be a good way to make things easier on me.

 

[jawsf16]

Got started on the install today. Pics of the old speedo removed, new one in place still taped over. Couple of noted items and one question...

1. It sucks moving the potentiometers because they are held on by bolts/nuts, vs simple screws. Highly recommend having a helper, I didn't and it sucked.

2. I tried pulling power from the old speedo like PP recommends but could only get the screen to backlight when turning the key. I threw a voltmeter on it and it showed about 7 or 8 volts. PP trouble shoot tells you that if the voltage is weak, the display only backlights but doesn't operate. They were dead on, so I T lined the power from one of the RPM Multi gauges and left the ground on the speedo. Display lit up normally.

3. I highly recommend installing PP with the engines completely removed. They are always in the way, completely painful to work around, and make for some frustrating moments.


Here is my issue/question... The following pic shows the servo and specifically the original throttle cable. It is identical on both cables, for the life of me the original cable does not want to go through the brass L bracket in order to tighten it down like the instructions show. Its as if the cable housing is a tad big or the L bracket hole is a tad small... on both brackets/cables? Do I drill it out a bit (PITA) or am I missing an obvious trick here??? Thanks!

 

[sstegh]

I tried pulling power from the old speedo like PP recommends but could only get the screen to backlight when turning the key

Crap, that's how I had planned to get power to it. Guess I'll be running wire to the battery now, that sucks...

 

[jawsf16]

Crap, that's how I had planned to get power to it. Guess I'll be running wire to the battery now, that sucks...

I may change to that simply to have an option to have power on it when engines are not running. I will see how inconvenient it is to only use it with motors going.

 

[sysinu]

(duplicate post as I put this in 2 other places tonight), but it's about PP:

So I installed mine today... be SUPER CAREFUL when moving your potentiometer. I was lucky that the only thing I punctured was my fresh water line going to the shower. My port engine install was not easier than my stbd engine install ... because after puncturing the fresh water line I was REALLY freaked out about the fuel line. It's almost as though everywhere that is convenient to install the damn thing there is something in the way!

Anyway... a couple things worth mentioning. I actually don't like the idea of putting the GPS receiver under the windshield in the 242, it really doesn't seem like there is much space, so I put it up next to the old GPS. Since I didn't want to disturb the potential to roll back, I took the old GPS apart and made some holes in it to route the cable through and then (will do this tomorrow most likely) sealed it back up.

 

[sysinu]

1. It sucks moving the potentiometers because they are held on by bolts/nuts, vs simple screws. Highly recommend having a helper, I didn't and it sucked.

I had a helper, but she did not want to help! I made her climb into the storage compartments and hold the nut on the bolt with vice grips. I was able to get them off solo by using vice grips, though (just have to wedge them against something).

2. I tried pulling power from the old speedo like PP recommends but could only get the screen to backlight when turning the key. I threw a voltmeter on it and it showed about 7 or 8 volts. PP trouble shoot tells you that if the voltage is weak, the display only backlights but doesn't operate. They were dead on, so I T lined the power from one of the RPM Multi gauges and left the ground on the speedo. Display lit up normally.

My manual does not say to tap the power from the old speedo, it explicitly tells me to tap the yellow w/ red line power cable from the ignition key (running power). I don't have batteries in my boat yet (suppose I should fix that soon if I ever want to go out) so I wasn't able to test it.

3. I highly recommend installing PP with the engines completely removed. They are always in the way, completely painful to work around, and make for some frustrating moments.

My back couldn't agree more!

Here is my issue/question... The following pic shows the servo and specifically the original throttle cable. It is identical on both cables, for the life of me the original cable does not want to go through the brass L bracket in order to tighten it down like the instructions show. Its as if the cable housing is a tad big or the L bracket hole is a tad small... on both brackets/cables? Do I drill it out a bit (PITA) or am I missing an obvious trick here??? Thanks!

I did not have this issue with mine. I did have to wobble the cable from side to side a little to get it to take, but I didn't have to drill anything out.


Also, regarding your picture, I'm sure you know this, but you need to unthread that top nut and slide it up the cable (with the washer) so that you can tighten it down. ;-).

 

[jawsf16]

My manual does not say to tap the power from the old speedo, it explicitly tells me to tap the yellow w/ red line power cable from the ignition key (running power). I don't have batteries in my boat yet (suppose I should fix that soon if I ever want to go out) so I wasn't able to test it.

Also, regarding your picture, I'm sure you know this, but you need to unthread that top nut and slide it up the cable (with the washer) so that you can tighten it down. ;-).

Mine had a one page insert with this info. It said the no wake mde would be inop if ignition was used. It seemed specific by year which was odd I thought.

Yes I will definitely tighten down the throttle cable with the washer on the other side but the hole will not currently let the threads through to do this. That's mynproblem.

 

[jawsf16]

So I was able to put the drill bit through it and get the extra 1/16 inch I needed. All hooked up now. Wish I was on the lake or could run on the hose (drought restrictions) to tune it up!

Regarding the power, I think I am going to leave it for now. If you go direct to the battery then PP would be on all the time. Ignition would be ideal so you can just turn to on, not crank and use, but the notice in my PP said that it would disable no wake mode... I definitely don't want it powered all the time though.

 

[Master-Spud]

I'll 2nd the power from the old speedo not being enough, I also tapped into the power of the multi gauge and seems to of fixed the problem... Now to hope no wake mode still works. It is definitely tight working in the engine bay for some of it. But I can say I was able to do it by myself, but it was a major pain. Suggest finding an extra set of hands for sure!

 

[sstegh]

OK, that's two people that have had problems using power from the original speedometer. I can run power to a fuse box under the helm but I can't decide how to keep PP from being powered on all the time. I could run it to a switch but there has to be a better way. I need some ideas from people smarter than I am.

 

[sysinu]

Just for reference: my manual came with something that said "use the purple wire from the speedo" that was part of the binder that the manual was delivered with, but the insert clearly states to use the ignition yellow line w/ red stripe. It didn't say anything about no wake mode not working.

Edit: s/Perfect Pass not working/No Wake Mode not working/

 

[sstegh]

It didn't say anything about perfect pass not working.

Lol, no but that would be funny.. I have the same insert, but the two people that had problems have 2010 or newer models with the same GPS speedometers we have, I assume they had the insert included in the instructions, but you know what assuming gets you. I take it yours powers up as expected? (I hope)

 

[jawsf16]

My speedo has no purple wire, so I used the old voltmeter to find the powered wire. It was about 7 volts or so. I used the port rpm multi gauge power wire, purple, and it worked fine...

The issue in the insert is that no wake mode will not work if you use the ignition power.