Rental Property Traveling Tongue Scale

[LukePrinsloo]

I was hoping you would not say that.
Thanks for the quick response. Now to figure out if anyone in town even carries bowstops.

would something like this work? (and keep the stock winch/roller config)
https://www.boattrailerparts.com/Bo...railer-Adjustable-Galvanized-Post_p_1406.html

 

[Betik]

That should work and at the end The day you can get 2 ( of different length).
Let me throw another options out there ......
I got a brand new aluminum trailer for $3,400 including taxes and everything . I sold my painted trailer for $1500. So you could sale yours for $1,400 plus get new tires ( $400 savings ) plus $139 of the that thing you are trying to install you end up with a brand new trailer for $1,500. Also in the future when you buy a new Yamaha you get the painted trailer and save $700. You then use your brand new trailer to sale your old boat. I bet your old boat will be worth $800 more because of a brand new trailer .

Getting a new aluminum trailer might be cheaper than you think.......
@bronze_10 can hook you up with his dealer ....

 

[Seadeals]

@LukePrinsloo I have an F150 too. I tow the boat and a 7500 gross travel trailer. The rear leaf springs are designed to be weak on the F150 so it rides smooth without a load (people won’t complain). If you tow a lot, it can really make the truck squat. I added airbags to level the truck back and have been very happy with the reduction in oscillating bounce when running bumpy roads or highways. I also have the MFI trailer and personally would not try to modify to reposition the boat. If I did anything I would weld the bow stop but I have not done that and just deal with loosening transom straps and an occasionally required brake check to shift her forward if she slips back coming out of the water.

 

[Neutron]

Something like this would be better.
https://www.veveinc.com/shop/Double-Roller-Bow-Stop-T-996.html?mobile_mode=get_detailed_images

 

[Betik]

@LukePrinsloo I have an F150 too. I tow the boat and a 7500 gross travel trailer. The rear leaf springs are designed to be weak on the F150 so it rides smooth without a load (people won’t complain). If you tow a lot, it can really make the truck squat. I added airbags to level the truck back and have been very happy with the reduction in oscillating bounce when running bumpy roads or highways. I also have the MFI trailer and personally would not try to modify to reposition the boat. If I did anything I would weld the bow stop but I have not done that and just deal with loosening transom straps and an occasionally required brake check to shift her forward if she slips back coming out of the water.

Does mine have a different suspension? It does not seem to squat much or I am delusional ?

 

[Seadeals]

Now that’s a nice load to tow. I have the sport suspension too but the generation F150 before yours. As things get older (used heavily) it can become more pronounced. How do you load/unload that thing? I added air bags and just put new Rancho 7000s on it so mine is performing and looking much better now.

 

[LukePrinsloo]

So update after a lake day.
1.) I have hellwig helper springs on the truck. I towed a 5,000 lb tractor on a dual axle trailer last weekend with less issue than this boat trailer.
2.) I put new tires on the trailer half a mile after buying it. (original 7 year old tires looked wore out and I was not ready to trust them.)
2a) Discount tire has tried and failed three times to balance the tires. I have massive vibration at 60 mph. My wife started freaking out at it. They then also broke a stud taking the tires off the last time. They have referred me to a "trailer" store to get the stud replaced I will be inquiring there about a proper balance as I could not get the manager to accept that their machines were hub balancing the tires and trailer tires are not made to be hub balanced. Everytime they take a wheel off and put it back on the balancer it would give a different weight to be placed.
3.) I loaded the boat further back after the lake today. Prior (cleat to the bow roller). Today Roller touches the first "ridge" in the boat. ~3 inches further back is the cleat. The truck road sooo much easier, no dragging ass feeling. By the time I got home to a level spot to check the tongue weight the boat had moved forward half of the distance. (I had gone from 44" bow tip to tailgate to 47", closer to 46" when I measured). Tongue weight was 500 lbs by that time instead of 650#. The issue is that nothing but the bow stop holds the boat from sliding forward. All other straps pull forward on it. I had contemplated just adding two more straps to keep the boat where I want it. This seems like a bandaid and any sudden stop could cause the straps to fail and the boat smack the bow stop HARD.
4.) I have a vibration that I will discuss in another subforum as it pertains to my motor(s).

I really appreciate this scale, If I cannot get this figured out in the next week I will send it off as I can tell now what the truck rides like when the stop is right.

@Betik . There is a local craiglist add for an older 2008 all alluminum trailer for $2500 I've been eyeballing it hard. I just do not know if I can sell my current trailer for $1400 (galvanized mfi) or if I would end up owning two trailers which would cause my wife to lose her shit as this boat has been much more trouble than she was sold on.[link]
https://greenville.craigslist.org/boa/d/2007-wesco-25-foot-tandem/6574558699.html[/link]
Then again this guy wants that for his galvanized Yamaha trailer.
https://augusta.craigslist.org/boa/d/24-galvanized-boat-trailer/6578984380.html

@Neutron I appreciate the link, that might be perfect. I can install that on my trailer and keep the stock bow stop/winch setup.

edit: also my mower's deck rusted off and fell off saturday. Expensive weekend.

 

[Neutron]

So update after a lake day.
1.) I have hellwig helper springs on the truck. I towed a 5,000 lb tractor on a dual axle trailer last weekend with less issue than this boat trailer.
2.) I put new tires on the trailer half a mile after buying it. (original 7 year old tires looked wore out and I was not ready to trust them.)
2a) Discount tire has tried and failed three times to balance the tires. I have massive vibration at 60 mph. My wife started freaking out at it. They then also broke a stud taking the tires off the last time. They have referred me to a "trailer" store to get the stud replaced I will be inquiring there about a proper balance as I could not get the manager to accept that their machines were hub balancing the tires and trailer tires are not made to be hub balanced. Everytime they take a wheel off and put it back on the balancer it would give a different weight to be placed.
3.) I loaded the boat further back after the lake today. Prior (cleat to the bow roller). Today Roller touches the first "ridge" in the boat. ~3 inches further back is the cleat. The truck road sooo much easier, no dragging ass feeling. By the time I got home to a level spot to check the tongue weight the boat had moved forward half of the distance. (I had gone from 44" bow tip to tailgate to 47", closer to 46" when I measured). Tongue weight was 500 lbs by that time instead of 650#. The issue is that nothing but the bow stop holds the boat from sliding forward. All other straps pull forward on it. I had contemplated just adding two more straps to keep the boat where I want it. This seems like a bandaid and any sudden stop could cause the straps to fail and the boat smack the bow stop HARD.
4.) I have a vibration that I will discuss in another subforum as it pertains to my motor(s).

I really appreciate this scale, If I cannot get this figured out in the next week I will send it off as I can tell now what the truck rides like when the stop is right.

@Betik . There is a local craiglist add for an older 2008 all alluminum trailer for $2500 I've been eyeballing it hard. I just do not know if I can sell my current trailer for $1400 (galvanized mfi) or if I would end up owning two trailers which would cause my wife to lose her shit as this boat has been much more trouble than she was sold on.[link]
https://greenville.craigslist.org/boa/d/2007-wesco-25-foot-tandem/6574558699.html[/link]

@Neutron I appreciate the link, that might be perfect. I can install that on my trailer and keep the stock bow stop/winch setup.

2500 for a 2008 trailer seems quite high.
I have seen new ones from 3 to 3500

 

[LukePrinsloo]

Sorry was in edit hell. recheck above.

 

[LukePrinsloo]

@Betik please send me the next person in line, I know what I need to know about my trailer and with 7 days of rain in the forecast I can send this on and operate from here.

 

[Betik]

@Betik please send me the next person in line, I know what I need to know about my trailer and with 7 days of rain in the forecast I can send this on and operate from here.

PM send

 

[Jameson Clark]

Looks like I found this thread a couple weeks too late! I am probably within a 10 minute drive of @LukePrinsloo and would've loved to see where my tongue weight sits while it was in town. But... come to think of it, I don't think I even had my boat picked up by 5/14 so I guess it doesn't really matter huh! Lol!!

 

[LukePrinsloo]

Man, I sent this out yesterday at lunch too. I checked the tongue after raising the trailer hitch up 2 more inches which dropped it into the 500 lb range.
I raised the ball 2 more inches for a total 3" raise static, after the trailer is on, it is only 1/2" higher which is crazy.

 

[Jgorm]

I always shoot for 10%. I'd rather be a few hundred over than too light. Gmc recommends 10-15%.
http://www.gmc.com/gmc-life/trucks/why-tongue-weight-is-important-for-safe-towing

 

[LukePrinsloo]

@Jgorm it's trailer dependent. On a single axle utility maxing at 3,000 lbs, 10% is good, on a 18,000 lb gooseneck? notsomuch.
For our twin axles the manufacturer of the trailer is whom i'd follow, which is 5 to 7% as stated previously.
Most hitches for our weight range are rated at a max of 10%, which to me means any bump and you've just gone over the 600lb range (like mine was setup originally).
The raise in hitch I put in made my static trailer with no one in the truck 1/2" higher at the tongue than at the front of the axles. Which means after ~600 lbs of family and gear gets in my truck i'm probably back to having the tongue down. My vibration speeds moved up and I can hear my trailer brakes actuating during slow driving now, so I believe I need to raise the boat nose up another 1" static or so so that at speed i do not have an issue. I believe my highway speed issue is due to the brakes actuating on the trailer as wind pushes the front of the boat down. This also means my tongue weight is going up as well.
I need to see if blocking off the bow (closing the windsheild and the wind panel) changes the speed if it does I've probably found my culprit.

 

[Jameson Clark]

Man, I sent this out yesterday at lunch too. I checked the tongue after raising the trailer hitch up 2 more inches which dropped it into the 500 lb range.
I raised the ball 2 more inches for a total 3" raise static, after the trailer is on, it is only 1/4" higher which is crazy.

Talk about bad timing!

 

[Betik]

Looks like I found this thread a couple weeks too late! I am probably within a 10 minute drive of @LukePrinsloo and would've loved to see where my tongue weight sits while it was in town. But... come to think of it, I don't think I even had my boat picked up by 5/14 so I guess it doesn't really matter huh! Lol!!

Bummer .... should I put you on the que ?

 

[Jameson Clark]

Bummer .... should I put you on the que ?

That would be awesome. Thanks!

 

[Julian]

@rsrlegends when you get the scale, can you ping me to I can use it too? We might want to see if any of the other NC folks want to use it too....

 

[rsrlegends]

I'll let you know when it I get it. Might be awhile as that box is racking up some frequent flyer miles.