Winterization debates

[Mainah]

@Gym I agree with you 100% on water finding the lowest point and collecting. Hopefully putting straight rv anti freeze in the system will help by mixing with whatever water is there and add to that is corrosion inhibitors. I get we are dealing with mostly aluminum which is very resistant corrosion but it does still happen. When I move down south I am sure I may do things differently but for now I am not convinced that I have no gain by doing it and I don't see any harm. I am however becoming more suspicious that I am wasting time and money the more I read.

Here is a link to a winterization kit offered by JBP for more fodder. I get marketing and all that but this product would not exist without a demand.

www.jetboatpilot.com/index.php?id_product=188&controller=product

For the oil questions I use full synthetic 10w40 (this is commonly used as motorcycle oil). This is what is recommended in my manual and it makes since for the high compression and high revving engines that we have.

 

[swatski]

I wish I could find that thread... someone help me.. he had to build a gantry hose to get the motor out... I think that's the one.. if goes into detail about the rust in the valve and how they fixed it. I just read it the other freaking day and now I can't find it! Uggghhh

@ToddW850 or @itsdgm ?

EDIT: @mrmeaniemeateaterman found it!

 

[bronze_10]

I think this is what you are talking about.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/ar210-wont-start-and-rough-idle-update-solution.1279/

@mrmeaniemeateaterman u get 10,000 points for today! That is the correct thread. Half way down page 6 he explains where the engine shop found rust on the valve stem.. Soni am wondering if fogging would prevent this... oh crap NO! HELP prevent this!

P.s.DISCLAIMER the points system is totally and wholely made up and fictional in bronze10 head.. jetboaters.net neither agrees with, condones or even likes 90% of what goes on in bronze10 head. ( All rights reserved. .. imaginary points system is copyrighted bronze10 idiot ideas llc!)

 

[Julian]

I came across this bulletin (attached). It specifically calls out the 1052cc engine (MR1). Its only one page, but doesn't make a lot of sense to me. Namely, if you're spraying for 1 minute (I assume bursts, otherwise the engine will stall), then by the time you get you cylinder #4, cylinder #1 will have been running for an additional 3 minutes without fogging. This procedure seems very strange to me.

When I fogged my engines I would use 2 cans and the directions were to spray enough into the intakes to kill the engines...even with 2 cans going full blast I couldn't kill them. So perhaps they are using a hose? LOL I just ended up spraying til the engines dropped significant RPMs, then I'd have my helper turn off the engine.

 

[Mainah]

@Julian - Thanks. I better buy another can. @mrmeaniemeateaterman and @ToddW850 thanks for that. I now feel better that I may not have wasted years of time and money fogging. I will likley continue my fogging routine until a better alternative to the internal combustion engine comes along or we find out the fogging spray causes cancer ... well maybe still if it causes cancer because everything does.

 

[KXCam22]

I posted a winterizing procedure .pdf document on here somewhere with what I do each year. My boat spends winter in the driveway with maxes of about -30c. Cam.

 

[bronze_10]

I posted a winterizing procedure .pdf document on here somewhere with what I do each year. My boat spends winter in the driveway with maxes of about -30c. Cam.

-30c ? That's crazy... we are amazed when we actually get to negative digits here... I think I would build a boat dog house with straw on the floor and a heat lamp on top with a flap door for my boat!

 

[Julian]

I posted a winterizing procedure .pdf document on here somewhere with what I do each year. My boat spends winter in the driveway with maxes of about -30c. Cam.

You posted it here (as a reply to this thread)

And I added this thread and the one above to the Winterization FAQ

 

[buckbuck]

I hope those with ballast systems noted @Julian remark about RV antifreeze in their systems. Just take the hose off the inlet of the pump and put a temporary hose on it. Stick the end in a 1 gallon bottle of pink antifreeze and push the fill switch. This will empty the bottle in seconds and protect the pump, lines and bags for the winter.

 

[Gym]

With regard to the oil, I recently migrated from 10w30 full synthetic to 10w40 blended as an experriment. I was getting the minor oil dripping issue that many MR-1's experrience. I feel the full synthetic oil doesn't properly wet the seals causing the drips. I feel the dripping issue is much less this season with the blended 10w40 but will continue my experiment next season.

With regard to fogging. There should be no controversy here. This was a service bullies put out by Yamaha. I believe it pertains mostly to us salty dogs and I intend to follow it through the season but especially during winterization.

 

[pagekl]

In the 6yrs I've owned my current boat I have never fogged the engines. It is kept outside all year long, however, it has seen very minimal salt water use, if that is a factor at all. I remember from the other site someone posting recommendations from Yamaha to fog the engines of boats kept in cold regions. I do what most of you do and that is fill the gas tank, stabilize the fuel, remove batteries, and everything on the boat and rev the engines to remove as much water from the water box as I can and that's it.

I change the oil every other season and change the plugs at the start of every season. Knock on wood, but no issues. This is my second jet boat and what I mentioned here is far more than I did with my old Sea Doo and it ran trouble free up until the time I sold it. I never filled up the gas tank for storage, never stabilized the fuel, and changed the spark plugs every other season and had it for 10yrs, with zero issues. If your around these boats long enough, you learn a great deal about what to do and what you don't have to do. I will never knock anyone on here for going the extra mile to care for their boats, but for me the proof is in the pudding.

 

[OperationROL]

I don't really understand either reason. Why would it expand to that degree? If I fill up at the end of the season (relatively warm still), it sits in the cold for the winter, and then pull it out when it is similar temperature, I don't really see an issue here. Secondly, if I put in fuel stabilizer, why would it be a waste of a full tank? Condensation in the tank is my biggest concern, and that is mitigated more so in my view if it is full. I intended to put in 91, as that is ethanol free here (I have done so a few times in lieu of 87 with 10%).

Do a search for "Gas" and "expand" and read through some of the experiences of others that have had this experience. I did and just don't care to repeat it, so I am choosing to store it bone dry. I believe that my method of filling the tank immediately when I pull it out of storage and adding 2 cans of Seafoam works for me. I count on the Seafoam to take care of any water condensation that my have formed. I literally, pull the boat out of storage, pour in 2 cans of Seafoam, drive to the gas station, fill it completely, let it mix on the way home and then start my summerization activities once I get home. My boat starts immediately and never has shown any symptoms of water. By the way, Stabil will condition your fuel to a certain point, but fuel that sits around for 6 months will surely deteriorate. I believe that my Seafoam and fresh fuel is better for my engines than running old/bad fuel through them. My method is not for all, so I get that.

Additionally, I use to change my oil in the spring, but now do it in the fall to ensure that acids are not released as the old oil breaks down while in storage. Mobil 1 10W-40 all the way.

 

[swatski]

Do a search for "Gas" and "expand" and read through some of the experiences of others that have had this experience. I did and just don't care to repeat it, so I am choosing to store it bone dry. I believe that my method of filling the tank immediately when I pull it out of storage and adding 2 cans of Seafoam works for me. I count on the Seafoam to take care of any water condensation that my have formed. I literally, pull the boat out of storage, pour in 2 cans of Seafoam, drive to the gas station, fill it completely, let it mix on the way home and then start my summerization activities once I get home. My boat starts immediately and never has shown any symptoms of water. By the way, Stabil will condition your fuel to a certain point, but fuel that sits around for 6 months will surely deteriorate. I believe that my Seafoam and fresh fuel is better for my engines than running old/bad fuel through them. My method is not for all, so I get that.

Additionally, I use to change my oil in the spring, but now do it in the fall to ensure that acids are not released as the old oil breaks down while in storage. Mobil 1 10W-40 all the way.

I have to say, I kind of love the idea of boat storage with a "bone dry" fuel tank. I never store for more than a couple of months, always find a reason to take the boat out as long as there is no ice. And - that is why I have a jet boat. Or outboard.

One caveat to virtually all fuel stabilization techniques is that they prevent water/fuel separation; once the separation occurs - it is over - and not going back into a single phase.

 

[KXCam22]

I don't use RV antifreeze. For the ballast system I simply blow it out with compressed air. I finally got smart and added a couple of fittings so I can blow it out without undoing many clamps. I hang the bags to drain for a day then put them back in the boat unconnected. Most of my ballast system gravity drains. Cam.

 

[Bill D]

Man, all this winterization talk is confusing... I think I'll just keep boating until next summer.

 

[Joe Hellaby]

What are the benefits of getting the boat wrapped vs. just using the regular covers? Does that seal it completely to keep out bugs? Or is it more to keep any moisture out? This is my first season with the boat, but I see many of the boats in my area get wrapped for the winter

 

[Mainah]

@Joe Hellaby two words that I hate to use right now .... Snow and Ice. The standard covers won't shed snow and ice that well and the cover may end up sagging and maybe ripping in the middle of the winter.

 

[haknslash]

Man, all this winterization talk is confusing... I think I'll just keep boating until next summer.

I know right?!

I'm sitting here just thankful we have mild winters compared to other parts of the country. I'll taker the heat and humidity of our summers any day over living in a cold climate having to deal with that white stuff on a yearly basis.

 

[Ronnie]

I just saw this on the other site. Even after considering the sources it seems like a good reason to store your boat with a full tank of treated fuel.

 

[Bill D]

Lol, "...after considering the source".