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Help - boat nearly sank, engines flooded

Scottintexas

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they have a whole “de-watering” process they go through and extract all the water.
I'd like to get a good understanding of what this process is so we can advise others of a better way in the future, It sounds more like a fancy way of "de-walleting" your money,

anyways, I'm sorry you couldn't get it running and glad you were able to get some help on it,

continue to pursue the insurance as 2 engines are going to be some cash,


.
 

Dave burke

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Sounds promising. If I were you I’d keep working on the one that showed some life.

I’m puzzled why you couldn’t get the other one going. If you got all the water out and you have good gas and spark, it should start.

FWIW, your experience is similar to my sea doo. I could never get it going but the dealer told me that when they removed the intake mainifold, it started pretty easily. Cost me about $400 from what I remember, about 4 years ago.

Again, good luck.
 

FLJetBoater

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I'd like to get a good understanding of what this process is so we can advise others of a better way in the future, It sounds more like a fancy way of "de-walleting" your money,

anyways, I'm sorry you couldn't get it running and glad you were able to get some help on it,

continue to pursue the insurance as 2 engines are going to be some cash,


.
No problem. Thanks to everyone for all the help!

he Said 5-6 oil and spark plug changes, and they have some other tools (didn’t say what) to examine/extract water from the engine. Maybe suck it out of the cylinders vs blowing it out? Not sure.
 

swatski

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WOW - I missed it. SO sorry @FLJetBoater !!

I can not read to catchup now but sounds like you may have it under control? Lots of cheapo oil for changes and some swear by adding a little diesel fuel to the oil changes, my dealr did when I had milky oil and he was flushing the engine.

Maybe you already know the root cause, I'll bet it was a crooked cleanout plug.
DO you have @Cobra Jet Steering LLC EZ locks?
 

FLJetBoater

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WOW - I missed it. SO sorry @FLJetBoater !!

I can not read to catchup now but sounds like you may have it under control? Lots of cheapo oil for changes and some swear by adding a little diesel fuel to the oil changes, my dealr did when I had milky oil and he was flushing the engine.

Maybe you already know the root cause, I'll bet it was a crooked cleanout plug.
DO you have @Cobra Jet Steering LLC EZ locks?
Yeah too late :) still no root cause

drain plug was in tight when we pulled the boat. Same with clean out plugs and yes both had locks on them.
 

FLJetBoater

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Sitting here just thinking how does this actually happen.

is an alarm plus 4 bilge pumps too many in my new boat? Lol Uggghhhhhhh

I wonder what the GPM is of the various failure points. Scupper, drain plug, cooling lines, etc.

I think I will install the alarm below the bilge pump in the engine compartment. And the 2nd bilge pump right beside the factory one.
I want to know if water gets in there to a level where is has to be pumped out. If I put the alarm above I wouldn’t know until the pumps have already failed.
 

fatboyroy

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Sitting here just thinking how does this actually happen.

is an alarm plus 4 bilge pumps too many in my new boat? Lol Uggghhhhhhh

I wonder what the GPM is of the various failure points. Scupper, drain plug, cooling lines, etc.

I think I will install the alarm below the bilge pump in the engine compartment. And the 2nd bilge pump right beside the factory one.
I want to know if water gets in there to a level where is has to be pumped out. If I put the alarm above I wouldn’t know until the pumps have already failed.
why would you install it below the bilge pump? It will alarm before the pump does its job. It should be 2" or 3" above it. If water reaches it, it means your pump is overwhelmed and you need to head back to dock.
 

Murf'n'surf

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I did verify spark. I bought an inline spark tester. However still no start.
I had a good conversation with the dealer this morning and they have a whole “de-watering” process they go through and extract all the water. Should be done in a few days, hopefully that’s not too late but i think I have done all I can do. He did say the steps I took would have still helped at least some even if the engines didnt start.

3 days to finish dewatering.
3-4 weeks to fully diagnose cause of water and status of boat/engines
If needed, 6 months approx for new engines

they were actually pleasurable to speak with and explain and expand on things, unlike the dealer that did my mid bearings.
Yup....they usually get you boiled out right away but make you get in line for the full diag but you/future people need to express the need for a boil out asap. It's pricey but not as bad as a new motor. A South Florida major service shop told me that you are better to leave the water in the motor because air speeds the rusting process. Not sure how accurate that is but due to their experience level: believable.
 

Murf'n'surf

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Yeah too late :) still no root cause

drain plug was in tight when we pulled the boat. Same with clean out plugs and yes both had locks on them.
Got to be an exhaust hose leak.
 

AZMark

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Sitting here just thinking how does this actually happen.

is an alarm plus 4 bilge pumps too many in my new boat? Lol Uggghhhhhhh

I wonder what the GPM is of the various failure points. Scupper, drain plug, cooling lines, etc.

I think I will install the alarm below the bilge pump in the engine compartment. And the 2nd bilge pump right beside the factory one.
I want to know if water gets in there to a level where is has to be pumped out. If I put the alarm above I wouldn’t know until the pumps have already failed.
I can tell you the gpm from the drain plug is not many...Ive done that one for far too long on the water before.

Scupper sounds like a lot, that’s a big hose. I would still think any loose cooling line on the engines is worst case scenario as far as water flow into the boat.

Sorry you’re dealing with this. I think I’ll be getting a water alarm too.
 

FLJetBoater

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why would you install it below the bilge pump? It will alarm before the pump does its job. It should be 2" or 3" above it. If water reaches it, it means your pump is overwhelmed and you need to head back to dock.
Because then you are relying on the pump to work all the time. What happens if the pump fails, then you get alarmed. You may not make it back to the dock before it floods. And I want to know if my bilge ever has to do anything. If I have a slow leak (like blown mid bearings) that is constantly being pumped out and I have no idea about it, that’s bad.
Especially when it turns into a big leak.
 

FLJetBoater

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I can tell you the gpm from the drain plug is not many...Ive done that one for far too long on the water before.

Scupper sounds like a lot, that’s a big hose. I would still think any loose cooling line on the engines is worst case scenario as far as water flow into the boat.

Sorry you’re dealing with this. I think I’ll be getting a water alarm too.
Thinking of the scupper, you’d have to be pushed down pretty low in the water for it to make it up the scupper into the cabin area. basically, the end of the scupper line would have to be below the water level. And I think it would be much more noticeable coming out into the cabin than something leaking in the engine compartment.
 

FLJetBoater

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I can tell you the gpm from the drain plug is not many...Ive done that one for far too long on the water before.

Scupper sounds like a lot, that’s a big hose. I would still think any loose cooling line on the engines is worst case scenario as far as water flow into the boat.

Sorry you’re dealing with this. I think I’ll be getting a water alarm too.
And yeah, based on how long that water took to drain from the plug....at least 20-30 mins and that was with the plug completely out to allow a solid flow of water.
 

flyingnugget

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@FLJetBoater ,

man im REALLY pulling for you!!! I know you are frustrated and stressed but it sounds like you are doing everything you can and should do.
I’ve been waiting for a “got em’both started” post..

hang in there brother...
 

Brad_Ct

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@FLJetBoater I’m in the Fort Myers area, if you want to drag it down here I would be happy to help you out.
 

adrianp89

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What dealer are you taking it to?
 

FLJetBoater

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What dealer are you taking it to?
Barney’s St Pete. IMO their service dept is >>>>>>>>>> than cycle springs.
Manager called me back within 30 mins, called insurance , etc.

When I had my mid bearings done at the other place they couldn’t get the actual bearing for months. So I ordered it and brought it in for them in 4 days. When I got the bill there were 4 bearings on the bill, 2 were 0 cost and 2 were whatever like $55. When I asked them to take them off he asked why. I said because I dropped them off. He said yeah but there are 2 on each side so you need 4.
:confused:
Asked him to pull up the parts diagram after which he conceded and took the other 2 off the bill.
 

FLJetBoater

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Got pics from the salvage guy today. This makes me sad......with the position of the gas fill/vent on these boats being very astern, plus the starboard list, it could have been underwater.

23F441F9-1B35-479F-9AD2-D56390A818BB.jpegE2D734ED-A30A-467A-91BC-399D60A0E9BD.jpeg
 

Julian

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