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Clean out plug blowout and engine flood. Help!

Wouldn't he lose compression if that were the case?

How about....change the oil again (ensure no water in the filter), and then run the engine for 30 sec to 1 minute without water. Then check the oil and see if it is cloudy. If so, then not all the water was out. If it is ok, then run it with the water on, and check oil again. If milky, then you have water intrusion into the block somewhere.....
Just :wild speculation: but yes he would lose compression. Possibly only on one cylinder though. That’s why I’d check the plugs/compression next.

I’ve seen engines run some time down a cylinder. Hopefully not the case here. But when he said the engine light comes on immediately when he turns on the hose and the oil is still really milky it makes me think the worst case.

Hopefully it just needs more oil changes.
 
If the engine filled with water while it was running, there is some chance there is a problem. If the engine was off already, generally attempting to start it while filled up won't bend the valves, as the starter can only do so much at low speed.

We may have a very lucky soul among us and he could escape unscathed. Hoping for the best. The weird noise could be also a little slop in the pump, and all is well.

If the engine stalled because of water being sucked in attempting to start it can definitely do more damage. Not saying that’s the case here but...if anyone else does flood their engine compartment and stalls dont try and start the engine immediately.

I know it’s first nature to reach and try to start the boat again. But I believe these boats have enough flotation that they won’t sink.
 
well apparently they do not offer dextron 2 anymore so that being the case the substitute does NOT mix with water according to his research so My suggestion is to hook up a wet vac to the oil filter location after removing the oil one more time and let the vac try to remove the water through that port rather than do the drain plug worth a try I do that to remove moisture from my nano hulls when I am repairing them . I take a insulated cup holder and attach it to the nozzle of the vac so it remains connected from the suction and it works very well I did suggest he leave the oil cap off for ventilation during this process attempt Any comments on this jeff fix.
 
If the engine stalled because of water being sucked in attempting to start it can definitely do more damage...
It has been my first hand experience twice that attempting to start an engine that flooded while powered off did not cause damage. I'm sure it can happen, but the cases I'm aware of have caused damage was when engine was flooded while running.
 
My clean out plugs blew out

Once you have the engines back to normal, I am curious to know if BOTH your plugs blew at the same time? That would be a first ever that I've read. What were the conditions (speed, waves, etc)?
 
Ok I did not read all 9 pages of this but I do insurance claims for a living. Stop and report this to your carrier. This is a covered loss. If you keep doing things it will jeopardize your claim. If they give you crap, show them this thread on what and how you did it to support your position. Then get Jeff to sell you some clamps to ensure this does not happen again. Just my two thoughts but if you have insurance this is the route I would go and get a rebuilt engine for a deductible. You have likely spent more then your deductible at this stage. PM me if you have any claims questions.
 
I don't think he is doing anything to jeopardize his claim, on the contrary he is doing his best to prevent further damage from the event. I agree if the engine suffers damage, and insurance is in place, they will help as this is an accident.
 
I don't think he is doing anything to jeopardize his claim, on the contrary he is doing his best to prevent further damage from the event. I agree if the engine suffers damage, and insurance is in place, they will help as this is an accident.
As a claims manager, he is placing his claim in jeopardy. 1st day no..... 4th day yes. You have to prove that it's not just a mechanical failure. Once you dry it out and remove all proofs of water then it becomes a seized engine that could be the result of mechanical failure. Why risk it. 20 years in claims and I have seen it all. There are great companies but then there are some that read the policy with no deviation that outlines reporting procedures and actions after a loss(claim).
 
Ahhhh, I see your point. Pictures, Pictures. Maybe save some of the water and this thread should be good documentation. Hopefully the engine is intact, but if not, there's the option.
 
Thank you everyone for your help. I took it to a mechanic because I was thinking it may add up to more than my deductible. I was able to get all water out of the oil.

The mechanic fixed the issue it was a bad fuse box in the engine hatch. Not sure exactly what but he replaced it with a used one. Going to pick it up today!

Thank you, everyone!!!
 
Great to hear!!
 
The mechanic probably already did, but if not, don't forget to spray something on the exterior of the engine to displace water too.

Glad it all worked out!


(The idea is to keep the shiny metal parts and clamps from rusting. The clamps are not made of stainless steel)
 
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I'm still concerned about your original issue of the blow out, in order to swamp the boat it had to dislodge the cleanout tube, did you fix this yet?



.
 
I have had a bad blowout like his, and it may start with a partially stuck plug. I got water to just below the oil filter in a few seconds, and the ski locker was also full, and everything was pretty tight. I think the water volume is so great it goes through the tray and clamps regardles.

BUT: totally worth checking out.
 
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With EZ-Locks.... No. More. Blowouts. Ever.
 
Thank you everyone for your help. I took it to a mechanic because I was thinking it may add up to more than my deductible. I was able to get all water out of the oil.

The mechanic fixed the issue it was a bad fuse box in the engine hatch. Not sure exactly what but he replaced it with a used one. Going to pick it up today!

Thank you, everyone!!!
What he said!
I use CRC6-56 and just buy it bulk by a gallon.
The mechanic probably already did, but if not, don't forget to spray something on the exterior of the engine to displace water too.

Glad it all worked out!


(The idea is to keep the shiny metal parts and clamps from rusting. The clamps are not made of stainless steel)
 
This exact same thing happened to me last May. I actually have PTSD as a result from it. I developed a stuttering problem. I was mainly concerned with my kid's safety. I'm no mechanic so I can't offer help there. However, I learned a lot regarding insurance, which paid for the entire lost engine. The engine I lost was port side. That's because the Starboard side engine's air filter is mounted higher than port side. I had to prove that water was high enough to get into the port side air filter. If you discover that water got into your engine and it's not repairable, (Mine blew a rod.) take pictures of the dipstick showing milky white substance. Also take pictures of the other dipstick for comparison. Also, lift the gas tank cover and take pictures of the water line to demonstrate how high the water got. You may also have a waterline in your engine compartment or at least evidence of debris. You need to prove that the water got high enough to get into the engine. A dealer will say they've never heard of the port covers blowing. This forum documents it well though. Print out as many cases as you can for your defense. I now have EZ Locks on the clean out covers and a high water alarm in my engine compartment.
 
This exact same thing happened to me last May. I actually have PTSD as a result from it. I developed a stuttering problem. I was mainly concerned with my kid's safety. I'm no mechanic so I can't offer help there. However, I learned a lot regarding insurance, which paid for the entire lost engine. The engine I lost was port side. That's because the Starboard side engine's air filter is mounted higher than port side. I had to prove that water was high enough to get into the port side air filter. If you discover that water got into your engine and it's not repairable, (Mine blew a rod.) take pictures of the dipstick showing milky white substance. Also take pictures of the other dipstick for comparison. Also, lift the gas tank cover and take pictures of the water line to demonstrate how high the water got. You may also have a waterline in your engine compartment or at least evidence of debris. You need to prove that the water got high enough to get into the engine. A dealer will say they've never heard of the port covers blowing. This forum documents it well though. Print out as many cases as you can for your defense. I now have EZ Locks on the clean out covers and a high water alarm in my engine compartment.
Wow.
That is a very real danger with the plugs, and the EZ locks from @Cobra Jet Steering LLC work wonderfully.
Here is a refresher:
Here is the EZ locks refresher.

One more thing about EZ locks. Those really ARE easy, and I'm pretty sure I am the first person on the planet who managed to goof up with the install... :oops: But just for the record -- here is what I've learned.

1. Watch the @Cobra Jet Steering LLC video clip


2. Drill close to the top -- see the pictures below -- I goofed up on the right, the left is the correct location of the hole.

When installed in the correct location (left in the pic), the locks do not "lock" when the plug is "open".
I know... it is obvious. But I still managed to drill the first hole too low... Before I realized my mistake.

upload_2016-10-10_22-59-34-png.47393
upload_2016-10-10_23-0-2-png.47394


This is what you want to see when the plug is open:

View attachment 47399

And closed:
View attachment 47400

View from top (open/closed):
upload_2016-10-10_23-5-11-png.47397
upload_2016-10-10_23-5-35-png.47398


--
 
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