• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Launch problem

It might help on very limited circumstances.

You should level it so it tows easier with the right tongue weight.
 
I am having the same trouble launching my 2020 ar195. I only launch in saltwater and do not like to get my truck wheels wet. My ball hitch is about 2 inches higher than level, so i am wondering if a lower ball would help by getting more surface area in the water. The Keel gaurd Hannibal mentioned above may be to blame as well. I am wondering if he solved the problem. Anybody have success lowering the ball hitch height?
No issues getting your truck wheels wet....remember all those northerners are driving their trucks on salted roads for months at a time. If your truck wheels can't handle an occasional salt dip, then you need a different truck! (just my opinion)
 
I am having the same trouble launching my 2020 ar195. I only launch in saltwater and do not like to get my truck wheels wet. My ball hitch is about 2 inches higher than level, so i am wondering if a lower ball would help by getting more surface area in the water. The Keel gaurd Hannibal mentioned above may be to blame as well. I am wondering if he solved the problem. Anybody have success lowering the ball hitch height?

Your hitch should make the frame of your trailer ride level with just a slight lean towards the truck. Regarding launching - I don't get this problem myself, but maybe we have better ramps in WI? When we launch I put the boat right to the edge of the water, remove the transom straps. Wife puts the bumpers up and attaches the ropes. Then I back in until the boat floats, stop, unhook strap and chain, wife pulls boat off trailer and I pull the trailer out of the water.
 
No issues getting your truck wheels wet....remember all those northerners are driving their trucks on salted roads for months at a time. If your truck wheels can't handle an occasional salt dip, then you need a different truck! (just my opinion)

I agree with this - also, you shouldn't have to get anything more than a few inches of rubber wet before the boat starts to float off the trailer.
 
I agree with this - also, you shouldn't have to get anything more than a few inches of rubber wet before the boat starts to float off the trailer.

As long as it's a good ramp and the water level is appropriate...

Some ramps have too shallow of an angle, specially if the tide is low. In those cases you may have to adjust for less than ideal conditions. (Winch more, go deeper, pick another ramp)
 
I launch / load almost exclusively by myself.... I loosen the winch line so there is ample slack, and back down fairly close to the dock. I back in slowly until I see the boat float free and drift back a little.

Then I get out of the truck, board, get the engines started, take off the winch line, then move the boat to the other side of the dock and tie off. Then go park my truck, cast off and drive away.

When retrieving, I put the trailer in just slightly less so the boat will start to ride the bunks when it’s almost fully on the trailer.
 
Last edited:
In contrast, here is my launch procedure. 2017 tahoe, (hitch height 24inch, 4 inch ball drop) trailer seems level at 18 inches) I launch around Hilton Head, SC. Back up until rear wheels touch the lapping water, hard stop to get boat to slide about a foot backwards, front of trailer fender is just underwater. Transom is floating, boat unhooked. Hit reverse, don’t budge... guy in 30ft CC floats right off trailer with no effort next to me... I bypass the RPM Limiter... still don’t budge.... guy in 30ft asks if my bow line is attached... I have my wife or son pull up a foot and reverse into hard stop a few times and back in about a foot into the water, and finally at WOT in reverse I come flying off the trailer.... loading I power on pretty hard, and winch up 3 ft. One my knee heals from surgery, I will try a 6 inch ball drop next... then add silicone to bunks.... i have to wonder if my bow is getting hung up on the forward crossmember like Hannibal mentioned above. Or maybe the bunks are getting hung up on the strakes, I can’t lower the boat anymore on the trailer because of fender clearance.
 
In contrast, here is my launch procedure. 2017 tahoe, (hitch height 24inch, 4 inch ball drop) trailer seems level at 18 inches) I launch around Hilton Head, SC. Back up until rear wheels touch the lapping water, hard stop to get boat to slide about a foot backwards, front of trailer fender is just underwater. Transom is floating, boat unhooked. Hit reverse, don’t budge... guy in 30ft CC floats right off trailer with no effort next to me... I bypass the RPM Limiter... still don’t budge.... guy in 30ft asks if my bow line is attached... I have my wife or son pull up a foot and reverse into hard stop a few times and back in about a foot into the water, and finally at WOT in reverse I come flying off the trailer.... loading I power on pretty hard, and winch up 3 ft. One my knee heals from surgery, I will try a 6 inch ball drop next... then add silicone to bunks.... i have to wonder if my bow is getting hung up on the forward crossmember like Hannibal mentioned above. Or maybe the bunks are getting hung up on the strakes, I can’t lower the boat anymore on the trailer because of fender clearance.

Back in further?
 
Salt water + brake, suspension, exhaust components and whatever else is back there vs. find an easier way to launch, I’m hoping for suggestions on the latter. Especially if anyone has tried different ball drop heights.
 
Salt water + brake, suspension, exhaust components and whatever else is back there vs. find an easier way to launch, I’m hoping for suggestions on the latter. Especially if anyone has tried different ball drop heights.
If your boat isn't coming off the trailer its because there is still weight of the boat pressing down on the trailer. The only way to get it to move will be 1) backing in futher or 2) power unloading (but our boats don't have the greatest reverse thrust to do this). Backing in deeper with a hard stop is what all our marina staff so when launching boats with their vehicles and tractors.
 
Salt water + brake, suspension, exhaust components and whatever else is back there vs. find an easier way to launch, I’m hoping for suggestions on the latter. Especially if anyone has tried different ball drop heights.

Just an FYI, in Wisconsin they use the salt brine from the cheese factories and spray it on our roads. Then when it actually snows, they cover them in salt. Salt water on your tires / brakes / exhaust ain't got NOTHING on what we put up with for 8 months of the year. Your vehicle will be fine.

To your issue with unloading, you have to get the boat floating or, as already stated, you've got all the weight on the bunks. Even if you can "power unload" it's not good for the gel coat to have that much friction with your bunks.

I would NOT recommend a liquid roller until you can get your unloading routine down. Sprays might work great, but if you brake too hard launching, or pull out too hard recovering, and forgot about safety chains and winch straps (happens to the best of us), your next forum post will be "how I launched my boat 20' before the edge of the water..."

Next time you launch try this:

1) Before ramp: cover off, batteries on.

2) Back down to launch. Stop before back of boat is at water's edge. Unhook your transom straps. Hook up your dock lines and fenders. Double check your plug.

3) Back the boat into the water - watch your mirrors as you put it in. At a certain point AFTER the fenders are covered in water you'll see the boat "pop up" and indicate it's floating.

4) Stop vehicle, go back and unhook safety chain and winch strap.

5) Back vehicle up maybe another foot or so and the boat will lightly float off the trailer. At this time it can be controlled by your dock helper.

6) Let the boat float back and clear of the trailer, pull your vehicle up and out of the way.

I would say that I've never head to put my rear wheels any further than a foot or two from the edge of the water on the ramp. Recovering I might go a little further in depending on how sun baked my brain is by the end of the day. If you're having to drive your vehicle tires 4-5' past the water's edge at the ramp, you should find a new ramp.

One last edit: Your barking up the wrong tree with your ball height assumption. Lowering your ball height at the hitch will only require more water to float your boat off the trailer. Raising it would help, but moving your trailers weight distribution with a higher hitch could severely complicate your towing safety.
 
Last edited:
You could also add a trailer tongue extender. You could add it at initial hook up (you trailer a very short distance) or at the ramp parking lot before you launch. It would move your boat 2-4 feet away from your tow vehicle.

 
I would say that I've never head to put my rear wheels any further than a foot or two from the edge of the water on the ramp. Recovering I might go a little further in depending on how sun baked my brain is by the end of the day. If you're having to drive your vehicle tires 4-5' past the water's edge at the ramp, you should find a new ramp.
I disagree with the "find a new ramp" part....many ramps are pretty shallow angle and you have to back in further. Also, all tow vehicles are not alike in their wheel base. The primary issue with putting your wheels in the water is you are also putting those wheels onto possibly slippery surfaces (which is why I buy 4 wheel drive). Fear of salt, however, is NOT a reason to avoid dipping those wheels.
 
Julian, I agree getting the tire and wheels wet should not be an issue with salt. I get concerned with water coming too close to the hub or covering the exhaust, and don't ever back in beyond those 2 limits (Tail pipe out of the water, and water below an inch or two from the wheel center.)

What's your reasonable Not more than this deep?
 
i’ve been off the water a while due to Knee surgery, just went out today at my usual ramp at mid tide. In my previous post I stated I was using a 4 inch ball drop, I lowered the ball drop to 6 inches which almost leveled the trailer. I did not add any lubricant to the bunks. But I will say that usually it takes 3 or 4 hard stops with full throttle to get the boat off the trailer. My Son did one hard stop at the edge of the water, and with no throttle the boat slipped off. loading was in a strong cross wind and current and it got me off tract, so I stopped, backed and essentially loaded on the trailer with ease only 4 or 5 feet away. So all in all, lowering the hitch did not hurt, an time will tell if it really helped or not.
 
Just found this old thread, the boat is still launching and loading great with the same set up, I added some silicone to the bunks a year ago and was probably a little too slippery, but its perfect now.
 
You may just need to back it in a little deeper to wet the carpet up front under the bow and then pull forward to your fenders at waterline depth.
Also
ArmorAll spray is silicone based and works great for slicking up the carpet on the bunks.
 
Back
Top