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Making DVSR Active with Engines On Only

Derek Fosbury

Jetboaters Lieutenant
Messages
127
Reaction score
118
Points
162
Location
Oakville, ON
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2016
Boat Model
242 Limited S E-Series
Boat Length
24
I want to have the DVSR only come on with the engines, to allow my dual bank charger to work as intended. I know you cut the red wire on the back of the switch cluster, and feed the one side from a switched power supply, but my question is for the 2016 e-series, does anyone know which wire will do the trick?

On the previous models, it was a specific wire for power to port or starboard YDIS that could be found behind the circular port in the engine bay, but mine has no such port, so I'm assuming the wires may be different as well.

Any help appreciate!

thanks,
Derek
 
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@Derek Fosbury there may be a yellow wire with a red stripe behind your key switch which should be switched accessory power if all else fails.

@jeremy0011 interesting solution. I have noticed the red indicator still on on my dvsr even after I have turned the battery switches off and before plugging in my shore charger. The only downside to using the shore power trigger for the relay is that when not connected to shore power the dvsr may have a vampire drain holding the relay pulled in until the volatge drops on the start battery enough to allow the relay to release the charge to the coil. Still better than what I have done which is nothing so far.

I think a standard 12v relay that only has power and is only pulled in when the engines are running would be the ideal method of closing the circuit for the DVSR loop wire. I need to find +12vdc with engines running so +1 on @Derek Fosbury question.


Edit -

WARNING WARNING WARNING - If you have an E/X series with Solar panels the solution is different and currently being worked on!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Try looking behind the helm for purple wires?
 
Just found them. Just inside the engine hatch to each side there are 4 differnt factory wiring harness connectors. On the port side there is a purple wire labeled directly on the wire casing with " P ENG ON" . This is the wire I am going to use as a trigger to close the dvsr loop. Have to wrap up another project first where I am turning the shrill alarm in a beep with long pause before another beep type using the same factory buzzer unit.
 
For the BEP DVSRs there is a built in circuit for "storage mode".
upload_2016-6-15_8-15-34.png
upload_2016-6-15_8-16-20.png
 
So no relay needed. Just tap a new wire into purple port engine on wire and connect to correct side of red looped wire once cut. This is a great mod for those with smart dual bank shore chargers and may extend the service life of the start battery by reducing discharge cycles.

In the stock configuration a depleted house battery and house electronics will receive power from the start battery as long as the start battery has enough voltage to keep the dvsr circuit closed and there is a great enough voltage delta in the house battery (even with battery switches off). That could prove useful in some situations as it protects the start battery from losing too much voltage/current compared to using the emergency combine to give a depleted house battery juice for the radio.

Thanks @Derek Fosbury for bringing this up. :thumbsup:I really like the engine on option the best for my use case and piece of mind.

For those who don't already, keeping a jump pack on board and charged regularly is highly recommended. For those who do have jump packs, time to check the charge state and/or charge ;)
 
thanks everyone! I'll be back at the boat on e weekend, so will look for the engine on wire mentioned above. I already knew about the storage mode loop, so hopefully one splice away from my desired solution!

I keep a booster pack on board as well, and top it up every month or so. I have a bit of an older one (read: Big and heavy!), so will replace that eventually with one of he new compact models.

will report back after the weekend assuming I get the time to do any work on the boat
 
@Derek Fosbury there may be a yellow wire with a red stripe behind your key switch which should be switched accessory power if all else fails.

@jeremy0011 interesting solution. I have noticed the red indicator still on on my dvsr even after I have turned the battery switches off and before plugging in my shore charger. The only downside to using the shore power trigger for the relay is that when not connected to shore power the dvsr may have a vampire drain holding the relay pulled in until the volatge drops on the start battery enough to allow the relay to release the charge to the coil. Still better than what I have done which is nothing so far.

I think a standard 12v relay that only has power and is only pulled in when the engines are running would be the ideal method of closing the circuit for the DVSR loop wire. I need to find +12vdc with engines running so +1 on @Derek Fosbury question.

My thought was I could use my small Honda inverter generator to recharge the batteries while under way if needed. I agree the 12v relay is the better option for most.
 
For those who don't already, keeping a jump pack on board and charged regularly is highly recommended. For those who do have jump packs, time to check the charge state and/or charge ;)


Exactly what I do and a friend asked, why keep a jump pack when you have a dual battery installation, because it's a balls up was my answer :D.
I'm so pleased we have you tech gurus onboard :thumbsup:.
 
Completed this mod last night. Works perfectly. After you cut the red loop wire turn on the batteries and test each end of the cut for voltage. The end with +12vdc is NOT the one to be connected to the engine on wire, insulate and seal it up. Connect the remaining wire (bottom half of the red loop on mine) to the purple engine on wire, rebolt the switches and dvsr to the bulkhead.....done.

Now my dual bank NOCO is truly a smart charger and my start battery will see fewer cycles.
 
I entertained (on the boat!) all weekend, so I could only briefly poke around to find the purple wire. I found it, but it looks awfully short! Did you use a tap, or splice and use butt connectors (or equivalent)?
 
I used a quick splice filled and topped with silicone prior to crimping for the engine on wire.
 
Thanks!

Hopefully will get a chance to do some actual work on the boat this weekend :). The new amp just sitting on it's amp board looks so lonely...
 
This is a great mod. I will doing this soon. Thanks guys!
 
ok, did this on the weekend. Smart charger is smart again!

while straightforward, I must say after a weekend of working with the wiring on this boat (also installed an 8 channel amp and ran new speaker wire) that yamaha did not design this thing with ease of DIY in mind! The remote trigger from the PA4A has to be about the shortest and thinnest wire possible!
 
https://jetboaters.net/threads/help-with-dvsr-loop-sense-wire.1736/

The first post shows the loop wire already cut. Coming from the factory, this loop is connected, so the DVSR is "always on". If you cut this loop, the DVSR is off, i.e., it gets no power. So you reconnect one side of it (for me was the one almost parallel with the orange wire) to a 12vdc source that is only on when the engines are on, such as the purple wire in the engine bay right behind the wall where the DVRS is mounted, and then the DVSR is powered only when the engines are on.
 
Why wouldn't turning the Starter Battery switch to OFF also solve the dual bank charger problem? I understand wanting to keep the house battery on for the bilge...but the start shouldn't need to be on, and an onboard charger would be connected directly to the batteries. So with the start switch off, the DVSR wouldn't have a connection to the starter battery so it wouldn't mess up the onboard charger....??? Right? What am I missing?
 
No, the DVSR loop is active even with switches off (verified this when I did the mod). I also verified that the DVSR does in fact engage when I turn the switches off and turn on my charger, which defeats the "smart" portion of the charger on individual banks.
 
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