fireflymedic
Jetboaters Admiral
- Messages
- 930
- Reaction score
- 3,255
- Points
- 277
- Location
- Bonifay, Florida
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2015
- Boat Model
- AR
- Boat Length
- 24
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It's hard for me to tell from the pictures, where does the cable come out at the base of the tower? Is there a way to keep it concealed straight down into the boat or do you need to drill another hole for the cable to come out at the base and it's exposed for a short bit before being tucked back in to run to the helm?Here are pics of the mount I used and radio
Also linked in my signature under 242X link (if you don't see my signature turn your phone on its side)
I'm struggling with the geometry on this theory. A boat in waves rocking will have the same angle to the water 1' off the water as it is 12' off the water.....right?the taller the antenna and the rougher the water the more the antenna will sway and direct the frequency to the water and shorter stronger antenna will sway less and transmit straighter. theres a bunch that will argue with me but dont care , airline pilot , and these frequencies are line of sight. if you have a 8' antenna like most do and you have 4' wave tha mean you boat will rock mostly sida to side , so will your antenna is 8' tall and you are standing still in calm wtwer it will have , probably, grater range. but if you are rocking side by side most od the transmition is hitting the ocean a 4 ' antenna is sturdier therefore lef rocking side to side. i was able to transmit to boat us in Lauderdale 35 miles out of miami with my 4 ' while my friend in distress with an 8" couldnt. Mine was mounted lower on the side of my 2019 ar242se. MY EXPERIENCE.
Agree, but not an expert in any fashion. It looks like the db value changes the shape of the transmission. But using their range calculator, the 4' should transmit farther than the 3' whip (same db). Like you said, a larger (ie. 6db) antenna would work better in calmer waters. I like the idea of a drift anchor.Ok, I had to go and research this, and, of course, found a good page that talks about DB gain on antennas and how to chose them:
Antenna Selector Guide - Shakespeare Marine Antennas
shakespeare-ce.com
This is what would come into play with @jocolo21 's wave issue. What it means however is that your short antenna will not reach as far as a longer one, but will be more consistent in those shorter distances if you are in waves.
I like it! Do you have a link to that mount? It looks like it just clamps to the tower, no drilling? I saw Shakespeare makes a clamp mount but didn't look like it was big enough for the diameter of the tower (only 1-1.5"). I can't tell on that Scarab for sure but the tube on my 212X is over 2".I mounted a Shakespear quick connect antenna on my tower:
This is what it looks like (sorry, these are the best I have):
As others have said, I can remove the antenna completely, or fold it down if I just didn't like the look (haven't bothered). Of course swapping to a longer antenna would be a snap.
I put this on in anticipation of going to Bimini last summer, which never happened, but I've never had the opportunity to these the full range.
What about power - do you all run from the radio at the helm back to the battery or tap onto something already at the helm?
Yep, I shamelessly stole @kthrash 's idea of using a tower speaker mount and attaching my antenna to it. Here is part of the thread that better explains my install.I like it! Do you have a link to that mount? It looks like it just clamps to the tower, no drilling? I saw Shakespeare makes a clamp mount but didn't look like it was big enough for the diameter of the tower (only 1-1.5"). I can't tell on that Scarab for sure but the tube on my 212X is over 2".
I didn't want to risk drawing too much power through the OEM circuit breakers, so I ran a line from a switched power source (ie media system) to a relay that hooked directly to the battery (via fuse). I then connected a fuse box (similar to what @zipper has) to that line to run my accessories. May have been overkill but I'm comfortable that the system will not over tax the OEM circuits and, of course, still be protected.What about power - do you all run from the radio at the helm back to the battery or tap onto something already at the helm?
Looks good! I think I am going to try the same thing. Which Shakespeare QC mount did you use? The plate or the clamp one? Not sure if it matters.Yep, I shamelessly stole @kthrash 's idea of using a tower speaker mount and attaching my antenna to it. Here is part of the thread that better explains my install.
It was this one. I just removed the base and put the bolt through hole.Looks good! I think I am going to try the same thing. Which Shakespeare QC mount did you use? The plate or the clamp one? Not sure if it matters.
Anyone have tips on where you connect power to the battery if there is a battery shutoff and I want it to be on the other side of the disconnect so if the battery is shutoff it will cut power?Alot ot people install a 6-ckt. Blue Sea pos/neg fuse panel at the helm. Feed it from the battery with the correct sized wiring for the run of 100a and circuit breaker. Something like this. ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover - Blue Sea Systems
You may find later you want to add trim tabs, an amp, lighting, chartplotter as well as the radio. That is what I did. It makes installation of all that (electrically) easier/cleaner. Although, I installed in port side storage locker due to the VHF and fishfinder being just above on the dash. I also fed my trim tabs and kenwood amp from it.
I liked this one so much that I also installed one on the Beneteau in the Navpod for the Axiom 9 RV, wind instruments, auto pilot as well as lighting and accessory needs.
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