2018 Bimini June trip (June 24th - June 30th)

[swatski]

Does anyone have pictures of how and where they installed backup bilge pump in these newer 242's? I see the factory pump between the engines in a cutout hole thru the sub-floor. Thinking of putting the second one just in front of it with a float switch but not drill a 3 inch hole into the lower bilge. I don't want to make this a big project, looking for the easiest and fastest install location.

Here is my setup:

"I don't particularly care for the factory bilge pump set up. I don't really like leaving the boat with battery switches on, if it can be avoided.... So, in my boat I finally got a backup bilge pump installed - the way I like it - direct to the battery (fused).

I use the simplest of all pumps - an automatic with a float switch. Attwood or Rule, doesn't matter, they are all the same. They all get terrible reviews, but I think it is primarily due to installation and maintenance issues.
The Ultra (brand) switch is about the only thing that will not fail - and something I would get if I wet slipped.

Otherwise, they all can get stuck in either "off" or "on" position, but I believe those inexpensive float switch automatics are actuslly the most reliable, if frequently tested and kept reasonably clean. One of my past boats leaked heavily (before I rebuilt the transom) - I had a chance to test various setups over the few years I kept it, lol.

Basically - the cycling ones (like the OEM pump) sense a load, any load - so it could be debris that will keep those on and drain your battery pretty quickly leaving the boat unprotected. Same with the "actual liquid sensing" (conductance, optical or whatever) - those can be fooled/activated by dirt - and stay "on". What is even more worrisome, neither of those two types (or the newer ones that "sense" but then default to "cycling" if they think it is just dirt) will actually pump if gasoline or oil is present...
(I'm all for clean environment, but if my boat sinks....)

Here is my backup bilge pump setup (inside the stern):

The pump's base is screwed and 5200-ed to one of the support beams (for the ride plate underneath the hull) at the bottom of the bilge. This backup pump operates completely independently of the factory bilge pump and is the only device in my boat that is live when all battery switches are "OFF". I have it wired directly to the house battery with a 16awg wire (using ground-black, and automatic - brown, with the brown/white - manual sealed off) running in a loom (top in the picture) - going into the engine compartment inside another large loom, along steering cables. The hot wire is fused within few inches of the positive terminal with a 5A fuse. The drain hose (bottom) is a standard 5ft 3/4" with a dedicated thru-hull outlet fitting installed above/forward off of the strbd rear cleat (don't have a picture).

Oh, I forgot to add - the pump is accessible through the cleanout tray hatch/opening - I can reach it to test the pump with the little dial knob. "

EDIT: Here is a picture of the outlet - the pump ejects a 5ft long stream. When putting this kind of back up together - I think it is very important to have an independent hose line/outlet, a well designed system with a short, clear path is more important than the nominal "GPH" rating of a pump, which is often based on unrealistic circumstances.

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[swatski]

Does anyone have pictures of how and where they installed backup bilge pump in these newer 242's? I see the factory pump between the engines in a cutout hole thru the sub-floor. Thinking of putting the second one just in front of it with a float switch but not drill a 3 inch hole into the lower bilge. I don't want to make this a big project, looking for the easiest and fastest install location.

This may also be of interest:

https://jetboaters.net/threads/show-us-what-you-see.4515/page-195#post-229970
Here is something new I've learned about the boat, few days ago while installing a backup bilge pump:
Those support plates/pieces at the bottom of the stern/bilge - that I assumed were plywood embedded in fiberglass - actually are ALUMINUM - NOT WOOD!

That discovery made me very happy about my boat, albeit made the job more complicated, lol.
Also explains abundance of mysterious aluminum shavings in those new bilges...

But overall - not bad! Bravo Yamaha - those new hulls are really "no wood".

And here is the pump - installed:

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[Julian]

I had a hell of a time trying to find a place to mount mine as well. I wanted to go in the rear bilge and access it via the clean out hatch but couldn’t make it work that way. Ended up going in the engine compartment where the factory bilge is but set it up on the finish level versus drilling through to the lower bilge. It sits about a half inch higher than the factory and works as a true backup. I mounted it on the back side of the engine compartment (opposite side of the engine mount from the factory one). I drilled and 5200’ed it to a piece of plastic cutting board and then 5200’ed the board to the bottom of the bilge so I didn’t have to drill through the bottom of the engine bay.

This is what I would do if I were installing a 2nd bilge. I have a ballast bag pump and hose that I keep in the boat in case of a need for a 2nd pump.

 

[swatski]

This is what I would do if I were installing a 2nd bilge. I have a ballast bag pump and hose that I keep in the boat in case of a need for a 2nd pump.

Hard wired? Or would you be looking for a cigarette lighter plug during Armageddon of boat being swamped - trying to figure out how to get to your bilge? or where is the water coming from...? Granted, in most cases of swamping a secondary bilge pump is really a band aid, pretty useless, but if it is just a leak from a loose clamp etc - and the primary OEM took a dive - I would most definitely want a secondary in place, hard wired direct to battery.
Maybe use a handheld as a tertiary, maybe.

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[Julian]

Hard wired? Or would you be looking for a cigarette lighter plug during Armageddon of boat being swamped - trying to figure out how to get to your bilge? or where is the water coming from...? Granted, in most cases of swamping a secondary bilge pump is really a band aid, pretty useless, but if it is just a leak from a loose clamp etc - and the primary OEM took a dive - I would most definitely want a secondary in place, hard wired direct to battery.
Maybe use a handheld as a tertiary, maybe.

Not hard wired. Simple to connect and operate. If I can't handle it....then that is what I pay insurance for!

 

[ThatJeepGuy]

@Rod5 my 2nd bilge pump is installed very similar to Swatkis:

Mounted in the same location
Float switch instead of the factory auto bilge pump
Hard wired straight to the battery (with an inline fuse)

The only difference I see is that my discharge hose exits next to the factory location. I check the pump every time we go out by reaching through the cleanout access port and lifting the float

I give @swatski all the credit since I pretty much just copied his

 

[Rod5]

Thanks everyone those are all great ideas. Given my short time frame I have to work in I like the mount to small cutting board then secure as an assembly next to factory pump.

 

[robert843]

This may also be of interest:

https://jetboaters.net/threads/show-us-what-you-see.4515/page-195#post-229970
Here is something new I've learned about the boat, few days ago while installing a backup bilge pump:
Those support plates/pieces at the bottom of the stern/bilge - that I assumed were plywood embedded in fiberglass - actually are ALUMINUM - NOT WOOD!

That discovery made me very happy about my boat, albeit made the job more complicated, lol.
Also explains abundance of mysterious aluminum shavings in those new bilges...

But overall - not bad! Bravo Yamaha - those new hulls are really "no wood".

And here is the pump - installed:

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I plan to put one in the same location when I was installing the trim tabs this where I decided to go I was just going to be lazy and 5200 it down but may I will drill how for did you drill into that piece I would hate to go through the hull.

 

[robert843]

Makes me like my lowly Raymarine Drgonfly which came with Navionics+ covering the Bahamas, and local, no bs.
The Navionics app on iPhone is actually not too shabby if you can get over some annoying features, which I would think may be an option ONCE YOU ARE THERE. I would not use a phone only for crossing.

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I was torn between the dragon fly and the garmin but what finished it in the end is I couldn't get a straight answer on what maps were included. So yours came stock with detailed Bahamas charts?

 

[ThatJeepGuy]

Thanks everyone those are all great ideas. Given my short time frame I have to work in I like the mount to small cutting board then secure as an assembly next to factory pump.

Don't be silly. $70K+ boat. It's a 2 hour project. I'd do it right the first time

 

[tim h]

I've been wanting to make this run for several years now. I'm just not 100% confident in a 19' boat, Any suggestion? It would just be me and my wife this time around to play it safe.

I may have room for you to ride with me... So far I’m solo.

 

[swatski]

I was torn between the dragon fly and the garmin but what finished it in the end is I couldn't get a straight answer on what maps were included. So yours came stock with detailed Bahamas charts?

Those aluminum plates are pretty thick, so no worries, two bolts you can see are for the ride plates.
That place is actually quite accessible, you will be able to reach to test the pump through the opening/hatch. And it is about as low in the bilge as you can comfortably mount it.

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[swatski]

I was torn between the dragon fly and the garmin but what finished it in the end is I couldn't get a straight answer on what maps were included. So yours came stock with detailed Bahamas charts?

Yep. It was pre-loaded. Very good maps. And I like the beam it shows.

But - importing anything into it, or programming new locations in, is a nightmare. No touch screen.
The menus are so bad - they give you flashbacks of old school electronics. And I mean solid 70s.

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[Elio195HOI]

I may have room for you to ride with me... So far I’m solo.

Thanks for the Offer Tim, Whats dates are you planning on going? I have a few things to work out to make sure I can get those days off of work, as we are going on a cruise later in July with the kids.

 

[tim h]

@Elio195HOI
Well this IS the June thread...

I am going to be flexible enough to leave as early as (mid-morning) Saturday June 23rd. or Sunday June 24th.
It all depends on Mother Nature.

 

[swatski]

I may have room for you to ride with me... So far I’m solo.

Now I'm thinking of pulling "a @Betik" on you...
Hmm...

Note to self: Maybe time to PM @tim h, lol.

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[Elio195HOI]

@Elio195HOI
Well this IS the June thread...

I am going to be flexible enough to leave as early as (mid-morning) Saturday June 23rd. or Sunday June 24th.
It all depends on Mother Nature.

LOL, Didn't even notice they broke it up into two separate pages. The more I think about it, If everything were to line up perfectly including weather, Id likely end up taking our boat or a buddies 23' sportsman.

 

[Julian]

I like the mount to small cutting board

As long as you secure that board....would seem to be easier to me to just use two small SS screws and mount it to the fiberglass in front of the stock pump.

 

[Rod5]

Oh yes definitely secure the board/mounting plate. Mount pump to plate 2 screws, mount float switch to plate 2 more screws equals 4 screws down at an awkward angle with screw gun bumping up against steering cables while fighting back and knee pain, etc... Vs 1 or 2 screws securing a mounting plate with a much bigger target and versatility for operating screw gun between cables engines hoses etc. Similar to the benefits of mounting Amps to mounting plates...

 

[Rod5]

Don't be silly. $70K+ boat. It's a 2 hour project. I'd do it right the first time

It will be done right, just in a different albeit more Silly location.