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2020 FSH 210 and Tongue Weight Question

Julian

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My 6 month old 210 FSH was blowing the taillight fuses in my truck. Turns out it was the incandescent bulbs. I also swapped out with sealed LEDs and haven't had a problem since. On those with trailer brakes, the pin for the reverse lights disengages the brakes, so if you disconnect the trailer lights you would have to put in a mechanical stop for it. Those surge brakes work really well for preventing the trailer from backing up.
If you wait to disconnect them once you are on the ramp, the brakes shouldn't engage with the trailer pulling back down the ramp...unless you have a REALLY shallow angle ramp and/or mushy sand on it.
 

Floridaman79

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If you wait to disconnect them once you are on the ramp, the brakes shouldn't engage with the trailer pulling back down the ramp...unless you have a REALLY shallow angle ramp and/or mushy sand on it.
I haven't tried it that way but don't see why it wouldn't work. My problem wasn't the bulbs shattering but it was growing continuity between the tail lights and the brake lights, so acted like a parallel circuit. The lights still get dunked whether or not they are unplugged. I also boat primarily in brackish and saltwater so I'm sure that had something to do with the corrosion I was experiencing. So far the LEDs seem to be doing the trick. I got them from west marine south of $100 if I remember right.
 

Elliott

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They seem to have them in stock for less than $60 for the pair.
 

washipdog

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My trailer issues continue and I think the damn thing is just cursed.

So my wife noticed that the right side light of the trailer lights were out when I backed up the other day. I unscrewed the enclosure to find the bulb had exploded so I thought nothing more and replaced it this morning. Everything worked again so we took the boat out this afternoon and afterwards while loading up I checked the right side trailer lights again only to find they were not working again.

Long story short when I unscrewed the enclosure I found out that the bulb exploded again! both times there was water in the enclosure, but that is expected since the enclosure dish is not waterproof. (Unless these lights are supposed to be waterproof? the other small bulb is also burnt out)

I figured the only thing that could be happening is that the bulb gets hot and then when I dip the trailer in the water it breaks because of the temperature difference. However the left side does not do this so I'm perplexed???

Thoughts? The trailer is less than a year old so if I needed to warranty do I just take it back to the Yamaha dealer?

So strange!
Replace the original lights with LED lights. Your problem will continue to occur and eventually the bulb sockets will corrode if not cared for properly. I got a pair of LED lights from Home Depot and they work great....no more light issues.
 

brian86992

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$24 direct bolt replacement LED lights I've been using after the factory ones blew. Good quality product https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FGC2JS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
IMG_3165.jpg

And you previous question about the brakes... they're basic surge. No signal from the vehicle needed at all. When you slow down the weight of the boat compresses the cylinder built into the hitch and it depresses the brakes. The lockout pin in needed in case the reverse lockout isn't working. When your vehicle's reverse lights come on, the brake system on the trailer has a little solenoid that prevents pressure from going to the brakes so you can backup. You only need to use the lockout if that isn't working. Otherwise if you finish parking the trailer and notice the tongue is 1/4" from fully telescoped, that's fine. As soon as you pulled forward it would slide the rest of the way open.
 

Liveto99

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My trailer has surge brakes also. The trailer lights suck.
I just move stuff in the boat to adjust the tongue weight
 

motomandan

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Also newbie question but are the brakes on these trailers electric or basic hydraulic/surge?

I think part of my problem is that I towed it back without a brake control module (the car has a round seven pin adapter but no signal) so I noticed that the breaking system on the trailer tongue was depressed back. I had to stick a screwdriver underneath and move it forward and use the lockout key disable The trailer breaking.

Anyway I purchased and installed a Prodigy P2 brake control module, but wondering what settings to use? It has electric over hydraulic and just regular electric mode. I think these trailers just accept electric???
no controller needed. Surge brakes only
 

FSH 210 Sport

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The trailer brakes are surge. With an electric bypass for reverse.

Using the seven pin plug to a seven pin plug on the tow vehicle will allow backing the trailer as the back up lights circuit on the tow vehicles seven pin open the bypass solenoid on the trailers braking system to allow backing.

if you do not use the seven pin connector then you have to put the mechanical brake blocker in place if backing up a steep surface, curb etc...
 

vesder21

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Using the seven pin plug to a seven pin plug on the tow vehicle will allow backing the trailer as the back up lights circuit on the tow vehicles seven pin open the bypass solenoid on the trailers braking system to allow backing.

This is not completely true. I have a 2020 aluminum Shorelandr trailer and even though the trailer connector looks like a 7 pin, it's not. If you take a look at/in it you will see that there are only 4 pins.

I only figured this out after installing a vehicle brake control module in my SUV and couldn't figure out why it was not working. Only after I look at connector did I notice it did not have 7 active pins!
 
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