I am going to try electric drum brakes on my trailer.

[Bruce]

I need to replace my braked axle due to the weld breaking on one of the spindles.

The spindle was rewelded on Saturday but did not even make it through a single weekend.

I have electric drum brakes on an equipment trailer with tandem 7,000 pound axles and really appreciate the smoother handling of that setup compared to the surge brakes on my MFI trailer.

I realize that water immersion, especially in salt water could become an issue but am unclear how this would be worse than driving in the rain or salted snow. I have backed my equipment trailer into lakes and ponds without issue.

The electric part of the brakes is a sealed magnet. I will solder and shrink tube the wiring to ensure that it is waterproof.

If it works well I may replace the front axle with an electric braked axle as well.

What are your thoughts?

This is the current situation.

 

[2kwik4u]

I'm 100% for it. I despise surge brake setups. You hit the nail on the head with the smoothness of electrics as they are proactive, not reactive. The ultimate setup is electric of hydraulic, however that's damn expensive.

I can't remember the manufacturer, but I think it was Curt. Might have been Reese. Anyway, one of those made "sharkskin" coated electric brakes specifically for boat trailers a few years back. Well, 15yrs ago now (Few years back gets further each year). Basically galvanized backing plates and drums, along with a sealed magnet assembly that had a LONG lead (like 20ft) so you could splice above the dunked waterline. Not sure I ever saw any reviews on them from a user, only from magazines and such.

if/when I have a trailer that needs brakes, I'll ditch the surge setup and move to electric as a first order of business. My little 190 scaled at 3,100lbs which us under both the legal and practical threshold to need them. Still considered adding them a few times due to the relatively low cost, and added peace of mind.

 

[Julian]

From the link below.....seems like it is being done more now....

https://www.etrailer.com/question-4626.html

 

[dgfreeze]

Unless your current disc brakes are shot, have you considered getting an axle beam only, and transplanting the hubs and brakes over? Much cheaper to get the beam only, and swap things over from the bad axle. That said, I agree the surge couplers are annoying. Mine works fine, and I've often considered welding it up and mounting an electric over hydraulic unit up there to make things smooth. $800 is all it takes...lol I'll probably never go with drum brakes on a boat trailer though. Disc are much more reliable, better braking, and hold up to rust better. I see too many issues with drum, I don't want them on my boat trailer. If you're going into salt water, I'd strongly recommend against it. If you're freshwater only, just be aware of the potential issues down the road.

 

[dgfreeze]

I almost voiced my concern in your other post when you said it got welded, but held off. I've heard of some holding, but it's too often not the case. And even if it does hold, there's usually some camber/tow issues that the tires don't like. I wish you would've had more luck there, as I'm sure it's a pretty good wait for a new axle. Unless someone has it in stock, I'm guessing 6-8 weeks? That's what we have to deal with when we order Dexter axles...

Who are you ordering from? And do you know what brand axle?

 

[Bruce]

have you considered getting an axle beam only, and transplanting the hubs and brakes over?

There is an inexpensive axle supplier ~100 miles away where the additional cost for electric brakes over an axle with spindles is $100. At the local trailer shop the difference is $130.

My risk to try electric brakes is low and the installation will be quick and easy.

 

[Bruce]

I'm sure it's a pretty good wait for a new axle

Looks to be in stock ~100 miles away at http://cowtowntiresandtrailers.com/.

May be in stock later this week locally.

Who are you ordering from? And do you know what brand axle?

Most likely picking up from Cowtown. No idea what brand but at $250 for an axle with electric brakes a worthwhile gamble. If I have to replace it in a few years I may change my opinion.

 

[dgfreeze]

Ok, good deal. Just do yourself a favor and plug the hydraulic lines properly, so that if you ever want to go back, you don't have to replace them also. You might be able to keep the coupler from sliding without welding, I'll take a look at mine this evening if I can find time. Brake circuit in the trailer plug will be the #2 pin (RV style plug), and should be a blue wire.

Likely a Lippert or a Dexter. Not a big deal...

 

[Bruce]

@dgfreeze I switched to a 7 pin connector years ago so I just need to hookup the brake wire and the 12V line to a breakaway controller.

I am thinking I may install the lockout key into the surge mechanism and secure it there with cable ties.

 

[dgfreeze]

That'll work, but if you want a more permanent solution, you could take out the large pin that goes through the slotted hole and put a bolt, nut, and washers of the correct size through to replace it. Tightened down pretty good should be a solid option.

 

[Sbrown]

Don't forget you need to add a 12v battery to the trailer to activate the brakes in event of a breakaway. Also, expect high maintenence and virtually no trailer braking for an extended period of time after pulling the trailer out of the water. Not because of electrical issues, more the mechanical limitations of drum brakes in general and electric drum brakes in particular.

 

[Bruce]

Also, expect high maintenence and virtually no trailer braking for an extended period of time after pulling the trailer out of the water. Not because of electrical issues, more the mechanical limitations of drum brakes in general and electric drum brakes in particular.

I find this part interesting. I have not experienced any issues after backing my electric brake equipped equipment trailer into a lake or pond, driving it across a creek or splashing through puddles.

The electronic part is just a simple magnet. That is sealed. As long as my wiring is sealed water should not have any effect on the electrical function. The only possible concern that I could imagine is lack of friction from the water.

 

[dgfreeze]

Drum will be less responsive after getting submerged, mainly due exactly what you said, @Bruce The water reduces friction for the magnet grabbing the drum, which means less braking, and is compounded by the wet brakes having a little less grab on the drums. Generally back to normal within a few miles.

 

[Sbrown]

Drum will be less responsive after getting submerged, mainly due exactly what you said, @Bruce The water reduces friction for the magnet grabbing the drum, which means less braking, and is compounded by the wet brakes having a little less grab on the drums. Generally back to normal within a few miles.

There's a bit more to the story, but yes, loss of friction is the problem, not water affecting electrical components. And there can be corrosion issues caused by lack of good ventilation inside the drum assemblies.

 

[BlkGS]

I strongly considered this with my rebuild of my trailer. I ended up doing disc's, as it gave me the opportunity to eventually go elec over hydraulic, and every supplier I talked to (including etrailer) said it was a bad idea and that salt water use especially would corrode it.

I agree with the others, just buy an axle and swap your disc brakes over.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I saw this set up on a wake boat, at a boat show last year, Electric over hydraulic. A very clean set up with a small battery built into that box.



Yeah surge brakes are kinda klunky, but the system is very simple and low maintenance. At some point though I may go to this electric over hydraulic system.

 

[2kwik4u]

I saw this set up on a wake boat, at a boat show last year, Electric over hydraulic. A very clean set up with a small battery built into that box.

View attachment 166623

Yeah surge brakes are kinda klunky, but the system is very simple and low maintenance. At some point though I may go to this electric over hydraulic system.

@Betik has those on his Yamaha trailer. Absolutely loves them.

IMO, it's the BEST system configuration you can have for a boat.

 

[Beachbummer]

I'm looking forward to your reports. Drum brakes was the only option for many years on many cars, and hydraulic is trickier than electric to bleed .

The expense and trouble to install kept me from trying this when I rebuilt my trailer, but I was also considering it a great deal. Hope it goes great.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

@Betik has those on his Yamaha trailer. Absolutely loves them.

IMO, it's the BEST system configuration you can have for a boat.

Thanks! Nice to get a report from one of our members with real world experience.

One thing I forgot, modern integrated trailer brake controllers are tied in with the anti lock braking system. The integrated brake controllers use a brake line pressure transducer to applying voltage to the trailer brakes which is adjusted by the gain setting. While electric trailer brakes don’t have speed sensors like the TV, the integrated controller will lessen trailer braking when the TV anti lock system activates thereby lessening the chance of a Jack knife situation occurring. Unlike the traditional add on pendulum style which just uses inertia to apply current to the electric brakes.

On my trip to Lake Powell this summer I had a rather large doe mule deer cross the road in front of me which necessitated a rather liberal application of my 2020 F-350’s brakes to keep from hitting the deer. At full braking and the anti lock system was activated, I felt the boat trailer start to hop as the surge brakes were applying full braking on the trailers braking axle, why only one axle has brakes doesn‘t seem to make sense, unless the non braking axle will help to keep the Jack knifing under better control. It is my belief that had the trailer brakes been electric over hydraulic this hopping would not have occurred.

 

[Betik]

My is electric over hydrolic disk brakes and I have them on two axles of the trailer. Despite the $2k upgrade I will be doing this on our future trailers. I am not sure that the price is worth the benefit, but I am defiantly very happy.
One thing to point out is that I went from surge disk brakes on a single axle to EOH disk brakes on both axles. So it is possible that main gain on my stop king power could be coming by adding extra brakes on the second axle. But one thing is unquestionably true. In the past I could feel the trailer presence of the trailer when braking. Now it almost feels that truck and trailer stop better or the same as if there is no trailer. Kidding you not that is how it feels and I only crank up the gain to 3.5