My 2016 Yamaha 242X thread....(MORE photos added 6/14/19)

[Julian]

Added a link to the first post to my Garbage can mod....still not delighted with it, but it works...especially if the last thing you put in the can is heavy. If it is light and you start going fast, the wind can open the lid of the can and suck out a paper towel.

 

[Julian]

Installed a marine radio for the Bimini trip.... Here is a shot of it installed:

 

[Julian]

Here is a shot of the rod holders:

 

[Bennie]

@Julian where/ how did you mount your vhf antenna? Still trying to route mine the way I want it.

 

[Julian]

@Julian where/ how did you mount your vhf antenna? Still trying to route mine the way I want it.

The first mount I bought was a plain old rail mount that I connected to the top of my 242X tower (1 1/4 inch rails). But the problem with the mount was that when I screwed the antenna (with connected cable to it) I had to do that with the cable disconnected (due to the number of rotations it requires)....so this was a temporary solution. I took the antenna back, and have now bought a Shakespeare Quick Connect rail mount and antenna. The antenna on this mount is not connected to the cable, so I can remove the antenna easily. I haven't yet connected this....that will be a late fall project, and will involved pulling that thick wire through the tower....oh joy! But at the same time, I plan to rewire the X's tower speakers.....so it will be a wiring project!

 

[Bennie]

I'm in the same boat. I too have the Shakespeare QC system. However my mount is flat. Where did you find the rail mount? Do you have any pics?

My thoughts have been to purchase a clamp to go onto my tower and somehow adapt it to the ratchet mount on the QC. Still figuring out how to run it to get the most height out of the system.

 

[Julian]

Where did you find the rail mount? Do you have any pics?

I got it from Hodges Marine:

https://www.hodgesmarine.com/Shakespeare-Quickconnect-Stainles-Steel-Rail-Mount-p/shaqcm-sr.htm

Not photos yet.....and I can put it on the very top of my bimini tower frame....not sure you'd be able to do that as your bimini is way different.

 

[zipper]

@Bennie I know I have a completely different boat model/yr. but I do have a tower and I used a Krypt tower speaker clamphttp://www.krypt-towers.com/tower-clamps/and mated it to a Shakespere ratchet mount for the QC antenna. I removed the base for the ratchet mount, and mounted directly to the speaker clamp. There are no splines on the speaker clamp, but it does not matter when you screw them together tightly, it does not move. I do recall needing to drill out the hole in the ratchet mount, a couple drill sizes larger to accept the larger screw for the speaker mount, not a big deal.
Just another option for tubing over 1 1/2".

 

[Julian]

@Bennie I know I have a completely different boat model/yr. but I do have a tower and I used a Crypt tower speaker clamphttp://www.krypt-towers.com/tower-clamps/and mated it to a Shakespere ratchet mount for the QC antenna. I removed the base for the ratchet mount, and mounted directly to the speaker clamp. There are no splines on the speaker clamp, but it does not matter when you screw them together tightly, it does not move. I do recall needing to drill out the hole in the ratchet mount, a couple drill sizes larger to accept the larger screw for the speaker mount, not a big deal.
View attachment 63650 View attachment 63651 View attachment 63652Just another option for tubing over 1 1/2".

Great idea for tubing over 1 1/4!

Side note Zipper.....you want that antenna pointing straight up, not at an angle

 

[zipper]

Great idea for tubing over 1 1/4!

Side note Zipper.....you want that antenna pointing straight up, not at an angle

Yes I agree. On this lake we are never more than a couple miles off shore. I have not yet had to transmit with the radio, we only listen, thus far. If I had to transmit I would make it vertical in 2 seconds. The angle does not put any stress on the antenna or mount being only 4' and very light and IMHO it looks better. However if I ever did go off shore, say to Bimini, I would unscrew it and replace it with an 8' er positioned vertically. I do lower them when trailering, as I nearly snapped one off once pulling out of the arena, forgetting they were all the way up.

 

[Bennie]

Thank you @zipper

I've been looking for a clamp that would work! I think that would be the best route for my tower size. Looks like I've got a good off-season mod to install.

 

[robert843]

@Julian I'm about to dive into swapping speakers out on my boat. I know you were able to add the polks in the consoles midship but just checked and my Kickers have a much larger magnet and require almost another inch in mounting depth over the polks do you think they will fit or were the polks tight? Also I think I asked this once before but where did they mount the factory amp for the subwoofer in the X?

 

[jcyamaharider]

Both factory amps for the X series boats are under the port cabin seat. Probably because that is where the brain box for the head unit is located at.

 

[Julian]

@Julian I'm about to dive into swapping speakers out on my boat. I know you were able to add the polks in the consoles midship but just checked and my Kickers have a much larger magnet and require almost another inch in mounting depth over the polks do you think they will fit or were the polks tight? Also I think I asked this once before but where did they mount the factory amp for the subwoofer in the X?

I actually instaled JL MX650's in the mid cabin area....they are much deeper than the Polks are. You have to be careful about placement - in particular with regard to where the Cleat sits on the outside of the hull - it has a thicker backing plate behind it...and monster bolts also....so be sure you mount further back from them!

As you can see from the photo below....I got REALLY lucky when I mounted mine! half an inch forward and my speaker would have hit the backing plate!!!! The depth shown is from the edge to the backing plate...it is hard to tell. The speakers angle in...so they missed the plate!

 

[Julian]

Here is a photo of the depth away from the plate where the magnet reaches to....

The MX 650's I installed are 2.74 inches deep. If yours are deeps than 3" you can always buy a spacer on EBAY to bring them out a little.

 

[Julian]

And these are the starboard side depths...the port side can be seen at the link at the top of the page.

 

[txav8r]

You can order a spacer, commonly referred to as a bezel, made out of King Starboard. It will extend the surface directly behind the speaker, and that is a common practice not only as a spacer, but to level up an install on an irregular wall surface. It is how many mount underwater lights on a transom that has a curve in it. I mounted JL MX650's in my midship too and faced the same issues that you (and @Julian ) faced. Shoot some pics by any available means, by removing throttle quadrants, glove boxes, or just by crawling up from under seats and removing blocking to get an eye on it. That will minimize any bezel needed. If you don't use the white speakers, your challenge will be matching King Starboard to the color of the speaker, or to the color of the combing pocket color.

 

[robert843]

Thanks I feel a little better the Kicker's mounting depth is only 1/8" deeper then the JL MX650's so it will be tight but looks possible.

 

[swatski]

@robert843 there was another thread on this I think by @fraserjr ? - may want to check it out if you can find it. The coaming inside the helm above the throttles has a different profile in the E-series as compared to non-E. I forgot which way but it is significant.

--

 

[robert843]

I just ran out to the boat again and removed the cupholders to measure the depth of the inset. It looks like both sides have about 1 1/4" clearance depth. With using a 1" spacer that would give me 1/4" left. So I may try that route.

Found it @swatski big thanks on that sounds like I will go a different route.