Testing the Bilge Pump and Hull Plug leaks

[FSH 210 Sport]

I still suggest you check the fuse first, it takes about 10 seconds. It is one of the corner fuses. Otherwise debris sticking up your float is a great second.

Respectfully submitted, if the fuse was blown I don’t think the pump would work at all. The posted mentioned that the bilge pump worked when he manually turned it on. So I’d think there is only one fuse that protects the line to the bilge pump. I definitely could be wrong on that since I don’t have a single line to look at.

 

[Jorgy11]

Respectfully submitted, if the fuse was blown I don’t think the pump would work at all. The posted mentioned that the bilge pump worked when he manually turned it on. So I’d think there is only one fuse that protects the line to the bilge pump. I definitely could be wrong on that since I don’t have a single line to look at.

"if the fuse was blown I don’t think the pump would work at all" -- But you don't know.
"So I’d think there is only one fuse that protects the line to the bilge pump" -- But you don't know.

The fuse protects the wire (and the pump), the pump protects the boat. One of those is more valuable, and regulated by multiple governing bodies.
The auto bilge is an additional feature to let the boat pump water regardless of the switch directions.

Next to your start/house switches is a little black fuse box. The fuse in the upper right corner should be a 4amp fuse on you '21. check it.
Secondly, but more unlikely is the little red wire coming out of the top of the "house" switch. Check to make sure that quick connect on that wire has not come loose.
Both of those will cause your auto bilge to not come on. (But your pump will still work with the house battery on and manually turned on the pump at the helm)
That should take you all of about 30 seconds, no harm to check.

If that is not the issue and you're at the marina, enjoy a day on the water. Just run your bilge manually once in a while as needed. Then check for debris eventually.

I had this same issue and needed help to resolve.

 

[ugamarkj]

Thanks for all the feedback! I'll be at the lake tomorrow to check.

 

[Quad]

View attachment 149744

This is from my 242X-e manual. First time I've noticed this warning about the house battery switch.

Interesting, the manual for my 242SE says the same. I was poking around today though and confirmed that the pump has 12v going to it regardless of the switch position and regardless of which battery is actually connected. I plan to test this further over the weekend. At this point, I’m considering putting a bucket of water in the engine bay, dismounting the pump, and sticking it in the bucket.

 

[ugamarkj]

@Jorgy11 is correct. I have a blown fuse.

 

[Quad]

I spent a few minutes poking around and I believe I have a definitive understanding of how and when the bilge pump will operate on my boat (2020 242SE), at least.

 

[ugamarkj]

FYI, the solar panel was wired wrong on my boat causing the fuse to blow. Simple fix was to pull the green wedge out of the deutsch plug and reverse the wires. Thanks to @Jorgy11 for the solution!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

FYI, the solar panel was wired wrong on my boat causing the fuse to blow. Simple fix was to pull the green wedge out of the deutsch plug and reverse the wires. Thanks to @Jorgy11 for the solution!

View attachment 151866

Sorry the solar was wired incorrectly… but glad you found the culprit!

 

[sunbyrned]

Just chiming in about the bilge on my 2012 242. The house battery and the bilge switch at the helm has to be on in order for it to kick in.

 

[Julian]

I'm still confused by how the bilge pump could work manually with the fuse blown???

 

[ugamarkj]

I'm still confused by how the bilge pump could work manually with the fuse blown???

Seems there are two ways it is powered.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I'm still confused by how the bilge pump could work manually with the fuse blown???

Two feeds…. The auto feed has it own dedicated fused circuit via the little black fuse holders next to the battery, the manual function from the helm switch which has its own circuit breaker ( at least on my boat). The pump has three wires, an auto feed, a manual feed, and a ground. On my boat, if the pump runs in the auto mode, the bilge pump switch lights up, as it does when it is placed in manual.

 

[Julian]

Two feeds…. The auto feed has it own dedicated fused circuit via the little black fuse holders next to the battery, the manual function from the helm switch which has its own circuit breaker ( at least on my boat). The pump has three wires, an auto feed, a manual feed, and a ground. On my boat, if the pump runs in the auto mode, the bilge pump switch lights up, as it does when it is placed in manual.

Are there two bilge fuses by the battery? If not, then I wonder if its just wired wrong? Or the manual switch is just wired to a larger general fuse since it has a circuit breaker.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Are there two bilge fuses by the battery? If not, then I wonder if its just wired wrong? Or the manual switch is just wired to a larger general fuse since it has a circuit breaker.

Not on my boat…. there is the one ATC fuse in the battery compartment that feeds the bilge pump all the time for the auto function. Then there is the feed that goes from the switched side of the house battery switch that has no fusing, that feeds all of the rocker switches, that feed is daisy chained for a separate feed to each of the rocker switches, each rocker switch has it’s own 5A circuit breaker. So, the Bilge pump rocker switch has it’s own 5A circuit breaker protected feed to the bilge pump.

Make sense?

 

[Julian]

Not on my boat…. there is the one ATC fuse in the battery compartment that feeds the bilge pump all the time for the auto function. Then there is the feed that goes from the switched side of the house battery switch that has no fusing, that feeds all of the rocker switches, that feed is daisy chained for a separate feed to each of the rocker switches, each rocker switch has it’s own 5A circuit breaker. So, the Bilge pump rocker switch has it’s own 5A circuit breaker protected feed to the bilge pump.

Make sense?

It does....but it needs a fuse at the battery too. I'll bet the helm is all run through one 20amp fuse at the battery.

This is the first Yamaha boat that I'm aware of that runs the bilge power through 2 separate fuses/breakers.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

There is the one fuse at the battery, the ATC fuse in a small black fuse holder.

You are correct…. The feed from the house battery switch passes through the main fuse box via a 30A fuse that feeds the bus which in turn feeds all other feeds.

 

[Danrich]

So I just got to my boat that I put in the slip last nigh. First thing I did was manually turn on the bilge and water started pumping out. I checked the fuse mentioned earlier 4A fuse. It’s blown. So would that mean I have a problem with the solar panel also? How do you fix the solar panel wiring? Also I did the anchor lock fix with new Thur hull but I was looking and my anchor drain plug just sits under water so I think I want to find a delete thurhull and just be bone with it. Any help or ideas are welcomed. Thank you!!

 

[Jorgy11]

So I just got to my boat that I put in the slip last nigh. First thing I did was manually turn on the bilge and water started pumping out. I checked the fuse mentioned earlier 4A fuse. It’s blown. So would that mean I have a problem with the solar panel also? How do you fix the solar panel wiring?

Replace your 4amp fuse, but first unplug your solar panel.
On a sunny day plug your solar panel back in and see if the fuse blows, if so then yes it's probably wired incorrectly.

Refer to post #27 in this thread to swap the wires so it won't short your fuse and will function as intended.