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What tool to use for new speaker holes

LeeFlan7

Jet Boat Junkie
Messages
368
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Points
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Location
Bucks County, PA
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2017
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
21
Hi…

I’m going to install a pair of extra speakers, question is should I use a 5” hole saw or a dremel style tool??
 
Hi…

I’m going to install a pair of extra speakers, question is should I use a 5” hole saw or a dremel style tool??
hole saw - ran in reverse with painters tape. Reverse will make a cleaner hole
 
I’ve never heard or thought of running it in reverse
 
That’s exactly what I did. Many posts on how to do it on this forum. Worked like a charm.

You can buy hole saws pretty cheap at Harbor Freight if you don’t have one.
 
Sounds like that’s the plan then, now just location to figure out
 
Loads of posts on this question. How many speakers do you currently have?

i added two speakers to mine in the mid cabin. Would have preferred to put them higher up but ultimately there wasn’t enough room so I put them lower down. I can send you pics if that would be helpful.
 
This is where we cut our extra set into on our 212. 5" hole saw.
 

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gonna add an amp as well?
 
6.5" Kicker
 
I already have the amp, putting 2 speakers mid-cabin and want to keep them higher up. I’m
 
I’m going to install a pair of extra speakers, question is should I use a 5” hole saw or a dremel style tool??
Hole saw will give you a perfect cut for a 6.5" speaker, much faster and perfectly round. When they say to run it in reverse, that's just to start the saw hole and cut through the gel coat which can chip easily. Painters tape is crucial and makes it easy to see the markings to cut. Once you get through the gel coat, put it in forward to cut through the fiberglass. Measure twice, cut once. Take your time and it will be fine. I put matching mid-cabin speakers in my 212s:

Pre.jpg
Post.jpg
 
What @212s said. My only other comment is to make sure the saw doesn't get too hot. It shouldn't, but if the fiberglass is thick, it can, then it can start to melt the gel coat. I learned with when I was cutting non-round holes with a dewalt hole cutting too....the bit got hot and I noticed it melting the gel coat (fortunately in a spot covered by the bezel)....so I slowed down and let it cool off more often.
 
That is exactly where I was thinking of putting one (on the black surface). Looks great, how thick was the surface there?
 
That is exactly where I was thinking of putting one (on the black surface). Looks great, how thick was the surface there?
I didn't measure exactly, but it's thick and solid enough to handle the speaker easily - maybe 1/4" - it's very solid. Click on the pics above to get larger images and you can see how solid the insert is made. Also note the courtesy light wire behind the panel. I used a pipe cleaner to lift it off the back so it didn't get nicked by the saw. Also note the side cleat location as the bolts are long.
 
Ditto the hole saw, but they're a bit expensive when you get to larger sizes and it's hard to find anything that will work for bigger speakers like the 10" subwoofers and larger. If you mask off, pre-mark your hole, and take it slow and steady, you can get as good of a job done with a reciprocating saw without the cost of a hole saw you'll likely never use again. I posted some pictures a while back of our subwoofer installation.

10903015.jpg
 
What about for a 10" hole for a sub?
 
What about for a 10" hole for a sub?
Never seen a 10" hole saw - it would be hard to handle I would think. Yamaha uses robots to cut out the openings in the decks, so their tools will cut a perfect circle if needed. To do a sub hole yourself, you need a jigsaw or dremel or similar to cut the hole. It doesn't have to be perfect, just sized to fit the speaker. A hole saw just gives a fast and perfect hole for smaller speakers...which is why I bought one to do my speaker holes. It cost $25 but it was worth it to make a clean hole.
 
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