Winterization with antifreeze

[Bluewater272]

If you want to run anti freeze, clamping off the intake to the pump will help get more of it into the water boxes - which is the ONLY place that traps water.

FWIW, water does sit somewhere in the cooling system, even when you rev/blow it out. I run antifreeze every year, and the first hose start of the spring it pisses pink for about 10 seconds (solid pink), before water starts diluting it and pushing it out. It's clearly not enough water to damage anything, but its still somewhere.

If you have a boat with ballast pumps or a shower pump, I'd spend time putting anti freeze in that well before I ever did it on the engine.

This is a must. Main reason why i even started running it through the motors, already have all the crap out to pump it into the shower, $10 worth of antifreeze for the motors is nothing.

 

[Julian]

$10 worth of antifreeze for the motors is nothing

I prefer not to burn $10. I'm frugal that way. Rather spend it on beer! But like I said before....if it makes you feel good....have at it.

 

[biffdotorg]

FWIW, water does sit somewhere in the cooling system, even when you rev/blow it out. I run antifreeze every year, and the first hose start of the spring it pisses pink for about 10 seconds (solid pink), before water starts diluting it and pushing it out. It's clearly not enough water to damage anything, but its still somewhere.

You will want to look at the videos or pictures made up of the Yamaha cooling system. It's called a waterbox, more like a tube. Imagine putting that much water in a milk jug and dropped it in your freezer. It would freeze and not even deform the soft plastic of a milk jug there is that much open space.

If it were an issue, Yamaha would have stated it in the winterization procedures, and we would have more new owners on here wondering about all the cracked engine blocks than timing chains. This is a non-issue that is being blown out of proportion by previous I/O owners who failed to winterize properly.

I can't say that I have yet to hear of anyone having an issue from frozen water in their cooing system and have done it this way on five waverunners and two jet boats. And we have real cold up here, not the 30 degree crap that frosts your windshield.

 

[mwalker4]

FWIW, water does sit somewhere in the cooling system, even when you rev/blow it out. I run antifreeze every year, and the first hose start of the spring it pisses pink for about 10 seconds (solid pink), before water starts diluting it and pushing it out. It's clearly not enough water to damage anything, but its still somewhere.

Funny you mention that. One year I used anti-freeze. I very rarely hose flush. The next summer I didn't hose flush until mid July and some pink stuff came out then. So I guess the flushing hose might retain some water.

 

[MidnightRider]

I don't think you are suggesting that greasing the bearing is not needed are you?

I imagine you know this, but for others reading this... The bearing is a sealed bearing so you aren't greasing the actual bearing, the grease is only to keep the seals in good condition. There has been talk on this forum on other threads that some skip greasing this altogether and have had the seals last just as many hours as if you greased them (the reasoning that the risk of blowing the seal is greater than the seal deteriorating from not greasing). I don't know the validity of this argument but it has been made. I personally followed the service manual recommendations and just was super careful to stop pumping if I felt any resistance at all to ensure I didn't blow out the seal.

 

[Smitty244]

I feel like if Yamaha would actually have a “winterization” section for below freezing temperatures in the manual then this would be pretty cut and dry. I think I’ll run antifreeze through it, pull plugs and spray fogging oil in the cylinders and turn it over, put the cover on it and drink beer.

 

[Bluewater272]

Funny you mention that. One year I used anti-freeze. I very rarely hose flush. The next summer I didn't hose flush until mid July and some pink stuff came out then. So I guess the flushing hose might retain some water.

Interesting, wonder if there is a loop somewhere in the flushing line. I'll have to pay attention in the spring to see if both piss some pink.

 

[Julian]

I imagine you know this, but for others reading this... The bearing is a sealed bearing so you aren't greasing the actual bearing, the grease is only to keep the seals in good condition. There has been talk on this forum on other threads that some skip greasing this altogether and have had the seals last just as many hours as if you greased them (the reasoning that the risk of blowing the seal is greater than the seal deteriorating from not greasing). I don't know the validity of this argument but it has been made. I personally followed the service manual recommendations and just was super careful to stop pumping if I felt any resistance at all to ensure I didn't blow out the seal.

Yup....and one of the main items for the 10 hour service (again...from my sx230, but I've heard it remains the same on newer boats) is the intermediate housing grease. As shown below:

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Yup....and one of the main items for the 10 hour service (again...from my sx230, but I've heard it remains the same on newer boats) is the intermediate housing grease. As shown below:

View attachment 165673

It is the same for my 2020 210 FSH.

 

[biffdotorg]

I feel like if Yamaha would actually have a “winterization” section for below freezing temperatures in the manual then this would be pretty cut and dry. I think I’ll run antifreeze through it, pull plugs and spray fogging oil in the cylinders and turn it over, put the cover on it and drink beer.

Being that over half the US freezes, they address it specifically, and avoid the term "Winterization" as it means something different to everyone that owns a boat, as it is different based on what sort of engine they have. That's why I always giggle, when someone asks "what do I need to do to winterize my yamaha" It's called annual service or regular maintenance as stated in the manual. And it also states specifically "winter storage"

And yes, they do mention flushing, as noted on the right. As many have said, yes flush it out for salt, sand, or dirt. But nothing about antifreeze even though this section is for Winter storage.

From the 240/242 manual and the same for any 1.8ltr engine:


This is a silly conversation anyway, just do what makes you feel good. Just use some RV and pet safe stuff, so you don't kill your dog when you dump it on the driveway.

 

[MidnightRider]

I was at a boat show a couple years ago and there was a Yamaha tech there at one of the large Yamaha dealer stages. I got a chance to talk to him and one of the things I asked him was do they recommend antifreeze in the northern sub zero temp winters. He wouldn't give me a definitive answer and basically said that they defer to the dealers in each climate to give recommendations for this. My take on this is that they aren't saying it is necessary but they also don't want to screw with a money making business at large dealerships. At any rate, if you read through the years of threads on this topic here, you find that there are years of owners not using antifreeze in sub zero temps and no issues that I've ever heard of. Having said that I did always run antifreeze through them, just can't buck the habits formed from 30 years of winterizing I/O and inboard boats. ?

Edit: btw, just got done winterizing my new Malibu and got to say I do miss the simplicity of Yamaha winterization. Draining involved removing 4 cooling hoses, two engine plugs, and two VDrive plugs. Yamaha you simply pull it out of the water. ?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I was at a boat show a couple years ago and there was a Yamaha tech there at one of the large Yamaha dealer stages. I got a chance to talk to him and one of the things I asked him was do they recommend antifreeze in the northern sub zero temp winters. He wouldn't give me a definitive answer and basically said that they defer to the dealers in each climate to give recommendations for this. My take on this is that they aren't saying it is necessary but they also don't want to screw with a money making business at large dealerships. At any rate, if you read through the years of threads on this topic here, you find that there are years of owners not using antifreeze in sub zero temps and no issues that I've ever heard of. Having said that I did always run antifreeze through them, just can't buck the habits formed from 30 years of winterizing I/O and inboard boats. ?

Edit: btw, just got done winterizing my new Malibu and got to say I do miss the simplicity of Yamaha winterization. Draining involved removing 4 cooling hoses, two engine plugs, and two VDrive plugs. Yamaha you simply pull it out of the water. ?

I used to put the antifreeze in my boat as a precaution, now I do not. The only thing I make sure to do is blow out the raw water wash down hose.

I called Yamaha corporate last year and the man told me that all you had to do was blow the mufflers out with the engines once you pull the boat out as far as freeze protection. I do make sure to start running fuel stabilizer and keep the tank relatively full towards the end of he season as old man winter can slam the door pretty hard sometimes. As @biffdotorg states, up in this area it does get really cold here. But even during the shoulder seasons when overnights can easily drop into the 0* range I can still take my boat out for the day and just do a quick muffler blow out on the ramp and I’m good to go.

 

[Evil Sports]

I don't think you are suggesting that greasing the bearing is not needed are you?

Actually I will say there are not many people that can apply 0.2oz to that port and the risk of blowing out the seals is not worth it. This whole antifreeze thing comes down to are you going to keep this boat for the rest of your life? Most will trade it or sell it so it really wont matter 10 years from now. Im not one to worry about things like that, I have seen for 8+ years there is no need to use antifreeze on this design in New England.

 

[Smitty244]

Actually I will say there are not many people that can apply 0.2oz to that port and the risk of blowing out the seals is not worth it. This whole antifreeze thing comes down to are you going to keep this boat for the rest of your life? Most will trade it or sell it so it really wont matter 10 years from now. Im not one to worry about things like that, I have seen for 8+ years there is no need to use antifreeze on this design in New England.

So you don’t think it’s worth the risk of greasing this bearing? I like that because it makes me nervous.

 

[Evil Sports]

My certified Yamaha tech said leave it alone. I listen to him.

 

[InmyElement]

I just use antifreeze for the ballast pump. Takes 10 minutes utilizing a garden hose fitting...sucks it right up.
I use this below to fog so it directs (curves to the right) towards the intake. I learned my lesson just spraying directly in causes excess fogging oil to soak the air filters (I was using too much also). Then for a couple of years I took off the air filter housings and sprayed directly in. Takes a little finagling to get them out. I also spray each cylinder (keep the little piece of tape on the spray tube, prevents falling into cylinder) and roll the engine over. Just a short pull of the grease gun to each bearing. Oil, filter, Yamaha Ring free fuel additive, 360 Stabil all year round, soak everything inside and out (nozzles, fittings, steering, throttles, engines) with Yamalube, plug pissers and bilge outlets with caps, dryer sheets, bucket of Damprid, 303 all upholstery, grease trailer, wash and wax...and worse part, lower tower. Say goodnight!

 

[dandjwest]

You will want to look at the videos or pictures made up of the Yamaha cooling system. It's called a waterbox, more like a tube. Imagine putting that much water in a milk jug and dropped it in your freezer. It would freeze and not even deform the soft plastic of a milk jug there is that much open space.

If it were an issue, Yamaha would have stated it in the winterization procedures, and we would have more new owners on here wondering about all the cracked engine blocks than timing chains. This is a non-issue that is being blown out of proportion by previous I/O owners who failed to winterize properly.

I can't say that I have yet to hear of anyone having an issue from frozen water in their cooing system and have done it this way on five waverunners and two jet boats. And we have real cold up here, not the 30 degree crap that frosts your windshield.

I for one don't think flushing antifreeze thru an engine at the end of the season is "out of proportion". While flushing with anti-freeze is not in my owner's manual, Yamaha dealers in the New York Adirondack region always perform this procedure. We can see 30 below temps here in the winters. I'm now a believer as we just spent $7300 to replace a cracked head on our SX190, attributed to frozen water damage. It is not the large volume spaces with a small amount of water in them, but the nooks and crannies with small amounts that will get you.

 

[Neutron]

If i lived in the northern region i would run antifreeze through it. They say not necessary but it can only help prevent a problem

 

[Julian]

If i lived in the northern region i would run antifreeze through it. They say not necessary but it can only help prevent a problem

Not needed, but so many people have done this with their prior boats they keep doing it.

My prior boats (2) lived in an unheated barn in Wisconsin....never saw a drop of anti freeze...no issues at all. Rev the engines a couple of times....done.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I just use antifreeze for the ballast pump. Takes 10 minutes utilizing a garden hose fitting...sucks it right up.
I use this below to fog so it directs (curves to the right) towards the intake. I learned my lesson just spraying directly in causes excess fogging oil to soak the air filters (I was using too much also). Then for a couple of years I took off the air filter housings and sprayed directly in. Takes a little finagling to get them out. I also spray each cylinder (keep the little piece of tape on the spray tube, prevents falling into cylinder) and roll the engine over. Just a short pull of the grease gun to each bearing. Oil, filter, Yamaha Ring free fuel additive, 360 Stabil all year round, soak everything inside and out (nozzles, fittings, steering, throttles, engines) with Yamalube, plug pissers and bilge outlets with caps, dryer sheets, bucket of Damprid, 303 all upholstery, grease trailer, wash and wax...and worse part, lower tower. Say goodnight!


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