• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Almost sunk my boat

I have a 2020 SX195. I don't think I have Alzheimer's but I do not think there is a drain hole for the anchor locker in my bow hull area. I don't know if there is even a "gap" anywhere in the anchor locker to let water drain under the cockpit floor into the bilge. If there is a bgap I think I will 4200 it.

There is a plug in my ski storage locker and water seems to "back-up" into it and then gets into the locker, on occasion. I think I will leave that plug closed unless it should be left open to drain into the bilge?

Thoughts anyone? :cool:
There is no anchor drain hole on 19 footers
 
This drain makes little sense to me as well. It's to high up in the locker to drain the anchor area. And the lip makes draining harder. I'd think about plugging this hole.

I've read a comment somewhere that this is a "feature" to "clean the anchor rope and/or your rode". I'm calling bullshine on that, it screams "made-up excuse when you're called out on it".

Problem is, with the design of the anchor locker and the openings for rain to get in, that drain IS necessary for that reason alone. Even if you are able to sponge out the water, not everyone will have that ability to do it, so that crappy design saves the anchor locker from holding more than a few inches of water (and creating a perfect breeding place for mosquitoes).

I got a test plug to put in there, but with the gap between the end of that fitting and the inside of the anchor locker, it simply wasn't good enough to stop water ingress when anyone was sitting in the bow.

I'm hoping with your measurements, someone can find a better fitting to replace that thing, but I'm slowly coming to the conclusion that it's going to require enlarging the hole(S) for a fitting that has enough length to reach inside there. Given the scupper issues, I'm also of the opinion that it should be replaced with a stainless fitting, even though there's no hose/pipe attached to it.
 
I have all all those plugs open to drain into the bilge, but now I am considering closing everything while it sits in a slip to contain a leak. I rarely use the ski locker except for noodles. But then you're back to the self bailing issue if you take on water from waves or rain
 
There is a plug in my ski storage locker and water seems to "back-up" into it and then gets into the locker, on occasion. I think I will leave that plug closed unless it should be left open to drain into the bilge?

Thoughts anyone? :cool:

I will see if I can take a video next time my boat is in the water, because I (and many others) have the same issue. I know exactly why mine fills up, and it's the same crappy fit/finish issues that Yamaha hasn't addressed (or fired the lazy douche canoe who isn't doing his job properly).

The water comes in from AROUND the garboard fitting as the boat bobs up and down in the water. I need to remove two screws holding the fitting, pull it out, and use some 4200 on it.

p.s. @HangOutdoors that plug in the ski locker is the same as your drain plug, FYI. I saw your post about buying extra drain plugs in case someone stole yours, ALL your compartment drain plugs should be ccompatible, but check to be sure.
 
Anchor hole plug. The total length is bigger than the hull thickness.

So, does your fitting actually reach fully into the anchor locker? If so, then your fitting for a 24' just might be a good fit for those who have the 21' boat - at the very least, it tells me that for my boat, I want a fitting close to an inch and a half long, to give me room for sealant around the entry into the anchor locker.
 
I have all all those plugs open to drain into the bilge, but now I am considering closing everything while it sits in a slip to contain a leak. I rarely use the ski locker except for noodles. But then you're back to the self bailing issue if you take on water from waves or rain

I leave them open on the trailer for everything to drain. I keep them closed on the water to contain a leak/hole and hopefully save the boat. It’s still self bailing with the plugs closed. If you ever hose out the interior open the ski locker and watch the water, it drains into the lips around the ski locker and out the back of the boat, very little water gets into the ski locker.

I don’t get to much water from anchor locker while boating unless it’s really rough. I did notice if we get heavy rains or the sprinkler hits the boat the ski locker gets pretty wet.
 
Changed my scupper today. Didn't want to take a chance. Definitely a cheap plastic pos. Not to mention it was siliconed in not 5200.
I used fast cure 5200.
20200808_190704.jpg20200808_190658.jpg

Since i work alone i sealed it in place with the 5200 and duck taped it from spinning. Worked well

20200808_191648.jpg
 
Changed my scupper today. Didn't want to take a chance. Definitely a cheap plastic pos. Not to mention it was siliconed in not 5200.
I used fast cure 5200.
View attachment 128978View attachment 128979

Since i work alone i sealed it in place with the 5200 and duck taped it from spinning. Worked well

View attachment 128980
@Neutron .....beautiful. Also noticed on that plastic scupper there is a metal screw to hold the flapper - I bet the cracks start right there! I'll be going to a metal scupper too. :cool:
 
I'm confused.....why the duct tape????
To keep the water from getting in, of course!


Sorry could not resist.

I read the tape was used in lieu of a helper to keep it in place.
 
Last edited:
Changed my scupper today. Didn't want to take a chance. Definitely a cheap plastic pos. Not to mention it was siliconed in not 5200.
I used fast cure 5200.
View attachment 128978View attachment 128979

Since i work alone i sealed it in place with the 5200 and duck taped it from spinning. Worked well

View attachment 128980
So which part # did you order and where did you get it and how much????

I like the duct tape idea....ill be copying that approach as I too will be doing it solo.
 
The Attwood 66553-3 is 5.5" overall and 5.25" from the back side of the flange to the end of the 1.5" dia barb. Are there space/placement issues on the 24' boats that require a shorter thru hull fitting?

Changed my scupper today. Didn't want to take a chance. Definitely a cheap plastic pos. Not to mention it was siliconed in not 5200.
I used fast cure 5200.
View attachment 128978View attachment 128979

Since i work alone i sealed it in place with the 5200 and duck taped it from spinning. Worked well

View attachment 128980

Thanks @Neutron, You answered my question. The tape is a good solution for being short handed. Looks like the Attwood 66553-3 is the S.S. replacement for failing plastic scuppers on the 24' series boats as well.

Edit: Recently bought mine here... Amazon.com : Attwood 66553-3 Boat Self-Bailing Cockpit Barbed Stainless Steel 1 ½-Inch Scupper Valve, One size : Boating Control Cables : Sports & Outdoors
 
Last edited:
I read about 4200 vs 5200 while looking into all this. 5200 is quite permanent and hard. 4200 says softer for bits like this that may need to be removed someday. But I'd hope the stainless model will not need to be messed with for a long time.
 
Back
Top