Almost sunk my boat

[zipper]

I would set it and forget it. Use the 5200. 4200 is rated for below the waterline, best used for application where you may need to remove like transducers, sealing wiring where it may need to be replaced. Either way you can use Debond from Fawcett Boat Supplies
to remove 5200.

 

[Neutron]

I read about 4200 vs 5200 while looking into all this. 5200 is quite permanent and hard. 4200 says softer for bits like this that may need to be removed someday. But I'd hope the stainless model will not need to be messed with for a long time.

They now offer 5200 fast cure. I find it the best of both worlds. Regular 5200 takes like a week to cure

 

[jmargo]

Clearly in a different spot than where mine is....or I'm not seeing this photo correctly.

Out of the water.

 

[Julian]

2016 242X location (top of photo)

 

[drewkaree]

There is a plug in my ski storage locker and water seems to "back-up" into it and then gets into the locker, on occasion.

I didn't get a chance to take any video, but I was able to take a few pics while it was on the trailer. I can verify that when it's on the water and there's any water in the bottom of the boat, way under, in the actual bilge, when it bobs up and down, such as when you walk over to look down into the ski locker, it will fill and empty with the movement of the boat. This may not happen to everyone, because I discovered today that there was zero sealant around/under the fitting that holds the plug in the ski locker. I'll clean it up eventually, add some sealant, and reinstall my fitting. As it currently is, it doesn't stop any water from coming in, so in my mind, it doesn't matter that it's been removed for the time being. As long as my boat is draining as it should, I won't get any more or any less water than what currently occurs. With the ski locker drain plug in, it simply slows the entry of water. The reverse is true also, it slows the EXIT of water with the plug in. It drains perfectly fine, so the ACTUAL problem is that there's too much water in the bottom of the boat, causing it to back up into the ski locker when it gets high enough.

 

[tdonoughue]

Yeah, looks like the caulk is shot (and you have junk below it from the drilling). I would take out that messiness from the drilling with a needle nose. Then some 4200 around the inside edge (none of the fittings' edges are sealed on our boats, which is why I don't get anal over a little ding getting water into the glass, but while you are here, might as well make it right...) and topside of the hole. Then reinstall the fitting. A new plug with a lubed gasket and you should be back to normal operation where it is not just letting water past.

 

[drewkaree]

I will see if I can take a video next time my boat is in the water, because I (and many others) have the same issue. I know exactly why mine fills up, and it's the same crappy fit/finish issues that Yamaha hasn't addressed (or fired the lazy douche canoe who isn't doing his job properly).

The water comes in from AROUND the garboard fitting as the boat bobs up and down in the water. I need to remove two screws holding the fitting, pull it out, and use some 4200 on it.

I know, this is after I removed the whole assembly in my ski locker, but the plug wasn't stopping ANY water from entering, and this shows how the water backs up when the bilge has water in it, but it isn't enough to reach the bilge pump in the engine compartment, or it doesn't slosh back there enough due to the bilge pump not being in the lowest place in the boat. Next time I'm in the boat, I may take a piece of wire or something, and see how much space there is between the ski locker plug area and the actual bottom of the boat, to see how deep it is and to get a guesstimate of how much water is held by our boats due to the misplaced bilge pump.

Sorry this is so long, the best example is near the end of this video. I set it up to start playing at the point where it bubbles up into the locker, restart it from the beginning if you want to watch the whole boring 20-some-odd-seconds.

 

[2kwik4u]

Place a puppy pad down there before removing the filter. Great tip I learned on here.

Baby diaper works great too. I put one under the filter and then loosen the filter with another. Catch's like 95% of the oil

 

[sunbyrned]

Baby diaper works great too. I put one under the filter and then loosen the filter with another. Catch's like 95% of the oil

I like that idea. Probably more manageable.

 

[giroux68]

And probably cheaper..

 

[2kwik4u]

And probably cheaper..

Have a toddler in the house. They were available when I did the last oil change. He's potty training now, might be my last year to have them readily on hand........and I'm OK with that

 

[StanM]

Looking at the Attwood Marine catalog, I found this interesting. Caution: Stainless Steel Scupper Valves are designed for installation above the water line only. Maybe mine is above the waterline if the gas tank is empty, the boat is empty and no one is onboard???

 

[Neutron]

Looking at the Attwood Marine catalog, I found this interesting. Caution: Stainless Steel Scupper Valves are designed for installation above the water line only. Maybe mine is above the waterline if the gas tank is empty, the boat is empty and no one is onboard???

Wonder if they are referring to the whole scupper system is below the water line?
Makes no sense otherwise

 

[BDOne]

Looking at the Attwood Marine catalog, I found this interesting. Caution: Stainless Steel Scupper Valves are designed for installation above the water line only. Maybe mine is above the waterline if the gas tank is empty, the boat is empty and no one is onboard???

I would guess that applies to any scupper valve, whether plastic or metal. The flap resists water entry but does not provide a water-tight seal.

 

[BDOne]

This might be a good scupper upgrade. Their "duckbill" valve is supposed to be more durable than the traditional flapper valve.

Also, the addition of a ball valve seems like a great idea... as long as it is accessible.

 

[Sbrown]

I've said this before, and I'm sure I'll have to say it again, but here goes. You should never use stainless steel for through hull fitting below the waterline. Any through hull manufacturer is gonna tell you not to, and ABYC standards forbids it. Marelon and Bronze are the only approved materials for through hulls below the waterline.

 

[mraz72]

Our boats have a plastic scupper (OEM) or Attwood makes the stainless steel version. I have the stainless steel one right here in front of me, I was going to replace the plastic scupper next season. Should I leave the plastic one and return the stainless steel scupper?

 

[1WetBoat]

Our boats have a plastic scupper (OEM) or Attwood makes the stainless steel version. I have the stainless steel one right here in front of me, I was going to replace the plastic scupper next season. Should I leave the plastic one and return the stainless steel scupper?

I wouldn't return it. On newer boats it might not be an issue right now, but the plastic ones will eventually become one. Unless the material was switched to a new plastic material I would still swap them.

 

[sunbyrned]

Our boats have a plastic scupper (OEM) or Attwood makes the stainless steel version. I have the stainless steel one right here in front of me, I was going to replace the plastic scupper next season. Should I leave the plastic one and return the stainless steel scupper?

I’m not sure what year or type of boat you have but the plastic scupper on my 2012 is above the waterline. I too bought a stainless steel one in anticipation of it breaking but we’re about ten years into it without an issue.

 

[mraz72]

I have the same boat as Jullian in post #64. I think the scupper port is AT the waterline, maybe slightly below? The standard mentioned by SBrown might be why our boats have plastic scuppers. With that being said, they could have used one of the other materials he listed as acceptable. The standard is there for a reason, what is the risk of stainless steel vs our OEM plastic scuppers?