Tap into switches for powering Garmin screen?

[Berberman]

Can i tap into the one of the rocker switches to power my Garmin Echomap UHD2 94sv?
Or tap into connext screen?
AR210 here.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Can i tap into the one of the rocker switches to power my Garmin Echomap UHD2 94sv?
Or tap into connext screen?
AR210 here.

Do you have any unused accessory switches?

No on the connext screen.

 

[BlueBulls]

Garmin shows the unit as drawing 3.5 amps, which I would assume is inclusive of the transducer. If I recall on my own accessory switches they were tagged with a maximum of 3 amps. I think you are in the territory of putting a distribution panel under the helm and going straight to the battery. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WM2MWQ4

This also makes it really easy to add accessories in the future and will allow you to turn the boat completely off while leaving your accessories running off the house battery.

I second not tapping into anything related to the Connext - the whole system seems very sensitive to voltage spikes and drops. I love my boat but the next will not have any type of proprietary computer system.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Garmin shows the unit as drawing 3.5 amps, which I would assume is inclusive of the transducer. If I recall on my own accessory switches they were tagged with a maximum of 3 amps. I think you are in the territory of putting a distribution panel under the helm and going straight to the battery. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WM2MWQ4

This also makes it really easy to add accessories in the future and will allow you to turn the boat completely off while leaving your accessories running off the house battery.

I second not tapping into anything related to the Connext - the whole system seems very sensitive to voltage spikes and drops. I love my boat but the next will not have any type of proprietary computer system.

All the accessory switches on my boat came with 5A ckt breakers.. just have to take a gander and see.

The DVSR takes care of making sure all house loads are coming off of the house battery automatically as long as the emergency paralleling switch is in the off position on the battery switch.

 

[lazergeek]

I ran both my Simrad and VHF from a single accessorty switch wihtout an issue, just use a the spade connector piggyback connector. https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-230613-Electrical-Male-Female-Adapter/dp/B000NI1G0C/ref=asc_df_B000NI1G0C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242007613379&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4926528125597294630&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1015055&hvtargid=pla-570375510408&psc=1

 

[Berberman]

Trying to think of alternatives to putting a distribution panel. How about tapping into the radio power?

 

[Berberman]

Do you have any unused accessory switches?

No on the connext screen.

No unused accessory switches, but could use the ctsy lights switch potentially, if it’s got enough power going its way. I never use those lights anyway. Anyone knows if that would works?

 

[HangOutdoors]

I personally wouldn't tap existing switches or the connext. Some do. Just run wire from battery switch to a fuse panel under the helm put a block of starboard there with 5200 and then screw the panel into it. I have a thread around here where you can see it.

If you short something out like the connext, it is going to be an expensive experience.

A bit of extra work and you will have a solid nice clean install.

 

[Berberman]

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I decided to tap into the 12v outlet wires behind the helm. I tested it and it works great, it’s secure, and I don’t really use that outlet anyway. I may decide to change that down the line. Now back to the installing that damn transducer.

 

[Julian]

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I decided to tap into the 12v outlet wires behind the helm. I tested it and it works great, it’s secure, and I don’t really use that outlet anyway. I may decide to change that down the line. Now back to the installing that damn transducer.

Since you have to pull the transducer wire to the back of the boat anyway, I would pull power wires back to the battery while you are at it (and install a fuse block behind the helm). You'll thank yourself later when you want to add a marine radio, USB outlets, fume detector, bilge alarm etc. Its really easy to do.....just the cost of the wire and block.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Since you have to pull the transducer wire to the back of the boat anyway, I would pull power wires back to the battery while you are at it (and install a fuse block behind the helm). You'll thank yourself later when you want to add a marine radio, USB outlets, fume detector, bilge alarm etc. Its really easy to do.....just the cost of the wire and block.

Absolutely!

The only thing I would add would be to use #10 wire from the batteries and put a 30A breaker there to protect that run up to and behind the helm to feed the fuse block, I would suggest tapping onto the switched side of your house battery switch so you can turn everything off that is fed off of that fuse block when you leave the boat. Then you can protect each device separately with the correct size fuse for the wire / device as it leaves the fuse block and as @Julian says you will be thanking yourself later on!

 

[Thermobrett]

I tapped into my courtesy light switch. Since I never use those inside the boat, it was the best power source for me and closest to he unit.