Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Welcome to Jetboaters.net!
We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!
Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)
I read through your comments but I just wanted to make sure of that fact.
So if the engines are off and it’s leaking that much water in then that eliminates the pilot circuit outputs, as well as increased leakage of the port intermediate bearing leak while running.
Another clarification, I thought you said the only way the water is visible in the bilge is if it is on the trailer with the nose up? Am I to take it that this large amount of water is not seen in the bilge when the boat is just sitting at the dock?
Mostly correct. The boat was dry when it went into the water (zero water near engines or in the bilge area under the clean-out hatch). Some visible water in these areas maybe 1/2 inch deep which is not enough for the bilge pump to drain overboard. This is with the boat sitting level in the water for 1+ hours. As soon as I get it back on the trailer (nose-up on the ramp) that is when there is a dramatic amount more water in both engine and bilge. There is water holding somewhere in the center of the hull and I cannot see where it is coming from. Anchor locker, ski locker and under seat cooler are all compeletly dry.
Perhaps put a large ice chest or three on the lowest swim step and fill it with water to get the bow up to see if you can see water draining back towards the engine compartment.
At the very least you will be able to see the water start to accumulate in the rear most part of the bilge below the water locks And this could possibly help to see where the water is coming from.
The fact that you say the water is forward until on the trailer warrants making the stern sit lower than the bow to check for leaks.
Are there any through hull fittings below the water line ?
Perhaps put a large ice chest or three on the lowest swim step and fill it with water to get the bow up to see if you can see water draining back towards the engine compartment.
At the very least you will be able to see the water start to accumulate in the rear most part of the bilge below the water locks And this could possibly help to see where the water is coming from.
The fact that you say the water is forward until on the trailer warrants making the stern sit lower than the bow to check for leaks.
Are there any through hull fittings below the water line ?
Next time in the water I will need to add some weight or take more people to watch it leak. The through hull fittings below water line are the cooling water out line from the thermostat (dry), the 2 transducers (dry), exhaust exits (dry), steering and reverser cables (dry). No others are below the water line. I do have some replacements coming for the cooling water out, the under seat cooler drain and to install a secondary bilge pump. None of these is currently leaking, but it cany hurt to replace them with new. B.O.A.T. = bust out another thousand....
Quite strange. The only way for water to get into the boat when just sitting is through holes in the hull (duh). The anchor drain and cooler drain are both above the water line - so that eliminates everything forward of the pump intakes. Everything in the stern should be pretty visible with the waterbox out.
This is what I would do:
Tilt that boat majorly and dry it out with a leaf blower....get the bilge DRY.
Then sprinkle baby power (or some other powder) around the bilge
Put the boat in the water and use your phone (and other peoples) with light on to video record into all the spaces in the bilge. The powder will make it easier to see flowing water and where its coming from. Then narrow down the direction of flow and location of the leak.
Then of course.....wash out the powder (or repeat as needed).
I can't see that much water coming in from intake grate bolts (it is POSSIBLE....maybe if you were missing some?)
My total guess is a transom plate leak.....good luck!
Quite strange. The only way for water to get into the boat when just sitting is through holes in the hull (duh). The anchor drain and cooler drain are both above the water line - so that eliminates everything forward of the pump intakes. Everything in the stern should be pretty visible with the waterbox out.
This is what I would do:
Tilt that boat majorly and dry it out with a leaf blower....get the bilge DRY.
Then sprinkle baby power (or some other powder) around the bilge
Put the boat in the water and use your phone (and other peoples) with light on to video record into all the spaces in the bilge. The powder will make it easier to see flowing water and where its coming from. Then narrow down the direction of flow and location of the leak.
Then of course.....wash out the powder (or repeat as needed).
I can't see that much water coming in from intake grate bolts (it is POSSIBLE....maybe if you were missing some?)
My total guess is a transom plate leak.....good luck!
I will try the baby powder and will set up cameras for the engine area as well as the bilge area. Perhaps next time I will stay in the boat as it goes SLOWLY into the water to see if that can point out the leak more precisely.
All of the bolts are there for the intake duct (transom plate?). The repair manual shows lots of silicone needed for that. I have thought of that area as a suspect as well. Scary part on this 2005 is it seems everytime I attempt to remove an old bolt it shears off and I end up needing to drill it out. Yikes! I can imagine how fun this will be for 15 counter sunk allen type screws for the intake duct and grate. I have tried once before to unscrew the starboard side and gave up after twisting my allen wrench without the screw even budging. The book shows these installed with locktite.
Quite strange. The only way for water to get into the boat when just sitting is through holes in the hull (duh). The anchor drain and cooler drain are both above the water line - so that eliminates everything forward of the pump intakes. Everything in the stern should be pretty visible with the waterbox out.
This is what I would do:
Tilt that boat majorly and dry it out with a leaf blower....get the bilge DRY.
Then sprinkle baby power (or some other powder) around the bilge
Put the boat in the water and use your phone (and other peoples) with light on to video record into all the spaces in the bilge. The powder will make it easier to see flowing water and where its coming from. Then narrow down the direction of flow and location of the leak.
Then of course.....wash out the powder (or repeat as needed).
I can't see that much water coming in from intake grate bolts (it is POSSIBLE....maybe if you were missing some?)
My total guess is a transom plate leak.....good luck!
