Unpowered Auto Bilge Pump?

[anmut]

My buddy has a Seadoo GTX 230 PWC - as we were discussing the differences between his machine and my Yamaha boat, he pointed out something unique on his PWC - that is an automatic bilge pump that's unpowered. Uses the venturi principle to suck and pump water out of the bilge.

I wonder if something could be designed on our boats to use the pisser lines to create the same type of pump that would help keep the boat dry before water even reached the powered bilge (which we all know is set too high to pull minimal water out).

I'm not an engineer, but I did have a ton of coffee this morning.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

The issue is that it doesn't run unless the engine runs. In a boat (aka bucket), rain comes by and it wouldn't empty. Hence the bilge pump.

Scarabs which use the exam same parts as Sea-Doo for this actually have the two holes there but they're unused and "blanked out".

I presume because it would cost a bit more for the extra parts and the electrical bilge would remain necessary.

 

[Beachbummer]

There's a drain plug with a float ball. So when you get on plane the water drains. It sucks, leaked on 4th use. Waste of $25.

Bilge pump is so important but without an alarm, you are still in trouble if it gets overwhelmed. You really want a bilge alarm so you know when it comes on AND if it's keeping up. I have 3 total. And my alarm has saved me more than once

I have too many bilge pumps said no one ever. And test from time to time

 

[anmut]

The issue is that it doesn't run unless the engine runs. In a boat (aka bucket), rain comes by and it wouldn't empty. Hence the bilge pump.

Scarabs which use the exam same parts as Sea-Doo for this actually have the two holes there but they're unused and "blanked out".

I presume because it would cost a bit more for the extra parts and the electrical bilge would remain necessary.

Well, that would be kind of the point. Adding an additional, non-powered bilge to the low point of the boat that just runs automatically as first line of defense. I certainly wouldn't advocate it as a replacement.

 

[anmut]

There's a drain plug with a float ball. So when you get on plane the water drains. It sucks, leaked on 4th use. Waste of $25.

Bilge pump is so important but without an alarm, you are still in trouble if it gets overwhelmed. You really want a bilge alarm so you know when it comes on AND if it's keeping up. I have 3 total. And my alarm has saved me more than once

I have too many bilge pumps said no one ever. And test from time to time

That I agree with. I have the built in one and two 12v Tsunami pumps for bags that can be turned into bilges for me or anyone else super quick.

 

[Beachbummer]

I recommend theT-800. I purchased the 1200 but their unusual hose size was more expensive than I would have liked. The t-800 can use 3/4 hose which is cheaper and more widely available. Since any water that you don't know where it comes from is concerning, I'm not a huge fan of the vacuum powered pump. But if you enter that space keep us posted on how it works.

 

[AZMark]

There's a drain plug with a float ball. So when you get on plane the water drains. It sucks, leaked on 4th use. Waste of $25.

That paragraph took an unexpected turn
Glad you posted that as I’ve looked at those things a bunch but hadn’t pulled the trigger yet.

 

[Cajun Bill]

The factory installed bilge pump on my 222 Sport seems to be installed too far forward, I suspect, because they're balancing the need to access and service it. (Clean the screen and release any water in freezing temps). But, it also seems on the small side. So, while I had the rear tray (which contains the manhole covers) unscrewed and open for another project, I installed a larger bilge pump about 6 inches or so from the transom. I was able to route the discharge hose around the stern on the starboard side and go out thru a new matching black 90 degree thru hull right next to the others. So, it looks to be factory installed.

 

[drewkaree]

The factory installed bilge pump on my 222 Sport seems to be installed too far forward, I suspect, because they're balancing the need to access and service it. (Clean the screen and release any water in freezing temps). But, it also seems on the small side. So, while I had the rear tray (which contains the manhole covers) unscrewed and open for another project, I installed a larger bilge pump about 6 inches or so from the transom. I was able to route the discharge hose around the stern on the starboard side and go out thru a new matching black 90 degree thru hull right next to the others. So, it looks to be factory installed.

Size is not the best indicator. You likely have a Rule 500gph pump, since you said it looks OEM. They redesigned the pump in 2019, precisely to make it smaller, to allow more mounting options, and it's more efficient than the old version that has an oval shape to it.

In using a 90 degree fitting, you also introduced a bottleneck (the elbow) to the discharge hose. It's not likely to matter in normal use, but you have a bilge pump for emergency purposes, and I have no idea if that'll cause problems at that point, but that'll be a terrible time to learn the answer.

If you now have 2 bilge pumps, I would think you're good, but reports are that new pump placement is about the same level as the engine bay pump location - the lowest level in these boats is just forward of the helm area

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

The factory installed bilge pump on my 222 Sport seems to be installed too far forward, I suspect, because they're balancing the need to access and service it. (Clean the screen and release any water in freezing temps). But, it also seems on the small side. So, while I had the rear tray (which contains the manhole covers) unscrewed and open for another project, I installed a larger bilge pump about 6 inches or so from the transom. I was able to route the discharge hose around the stern on the starboard side and go out thru a new matching black 90 degree thru hull right next to the others. So, it looks to be factory installed.

I’m assuming the bilge pump is mounted in between the engines? If it’s anything like the one in my boat, the amount of water left behind is only a gallon or two after the bilge pump shuts off. It’s good to place another pump back where you did, I did the same, you can turn this rear mounted pump on then put the boat on the hump and it will remove even more water from the back, you’d be left with about half gallon or so at that point.

One thing I did discover when I mounted my 800 gph second bilge pump, I mounted mine like you did, but that long length of hose and the extra turns seems to have created quite a bit of resistance and it doesn’t seem to flow as well as my stock 500 gallon one that has a short discharge hose and only a couple of turns, I also think it’s important to use large radius sweeping turns and not 90° turns. Those bilge pumps just have a little open rotary vane impeller in them and they’re not positive displacement so they’ll be sensitive to resistance in the line. I also removed the duck bill back flow preventer to prevent any standing water that could freeze and cause damage. If I was to do it over, I’d run the discharge out the vertical wall between the upper and lower swim steps.

Thread 'Additional Bilge pump'

Apr 11, 2022

Another thing I had wanted for some time was additional bilge pump. I had thought about the best place to mount it, next to the oem one would be convenient, but lower in the bilge would be better.

My friend suggested a simple mount that would be easy to put in and easy to remove for service. As it turns out when I tested this set up the two bilge pumps came on at the same time. The mount material is expanded pvc board.



I meant to remove the duck bill back flow preventer but forgot, I’ll be cutting that out before the next outing. The oem bilge pump did not have a...

• FSH 210 Sport
• Replies: 22
• Forum: Yamaha Center Console FSH 19x, 21x, 22x, 25x

• 

 

[Cajun Bill]

I’m assuming the bilge pump is mounted in between the engines? If it’s anything like the one in my boat, the amount of water left behind is only a gallon or two after the bilge pump shuts off. It’s good to place another pump back where you did, I did the same, you can turn this rear mounted pump on then put the boat on the hump and it will remove even more water from the back, you’d be left with about half gallon or so at that point.

One thing I did discover when I mounted my 800 gph second bilge pump, I mounted mine like you did, but that long length of hose and the extra turns seems to have created quite a bit of resistance and it doesn’t seem to flow as well as my stock 500 gallon one that has a short discharge hose and only a couple of turns, I also think it’s important to use large radius sweeping turns and not 90° turns. Those bilge pumps just have a little open rotary vane impeller in them and they’re not positive displacement so they’ll be sensitive to resistance in the line. I also removed the duck bill back flow preventer to prevent any standing water that could freeze and cause damage. If I was to do it over, I’d run the discharge out the vertical wall between the upper and lower swim steps.

Thread 'Additional Bilge pump'

Apr 11, 2022

Another thing I had wanted for some time was additional bilge pump. I had thought about the best place to mount it, next to the oem one would be convenient, but lower in the bilge would be better.

My friend suggested a simple mount that would be easy to put in and easy to remove for service. As it turns out when I tested this set up the two bilge pumps came on at the same time. The mount material is expanded pvc board.



I meant to remove the duck bill back flow preventer but forgot, I’ll be cutting that out before the next outing. The oem bilge pump did not have a...

• FSH 210 Sport
• Replies: 22
• Forum: Yamaha Center Console FSH 19x, 21x, 22x, 25x

• 

 

[Cajun Bill]

Here's a pic of my 2nd bilge pump. Yes, the OEM 500 GPH is mounted between the engines. This is an 1100 GPH, also made by Rule/Xylem. Because I don't plan to access it very often and don't want to add it to my freeze precaution list, I also removed the check valve. I know that adding 90 degree elbows increases the total dynamic head. But, it was a trade that I wanted to make given the space limitations. The discharge flow is much greater than the OEM. One day, I might have the output measured just for fun to see the actual output. The attached Rule product flyer shows a performance graph which shows the drop in performance for each foot of increased static head. So, using 1 1/8" hose, I worked to minimize the static head during the installation.

 

[VitaminSea]

I’ve been looking at the specs, and from what I can see, the OEM 500GPH and the 800 GPH use the same chassis, same size tubing, with the only difference being needing a 5AMP fuse vs a 4AMP fuse. The 800 GPH model on paper seems to double the 500GPH pump in output once you factor in any lift/backpressure. Does anyone see any issue with swapping this out and replacing the 4AMP fuse w/ a 5AMP fuse? Didn’t know if somehow this would/could throw the Connext into a tizzy. I also think this is been mentioned elsewhere, but I was pleased to find that even with the battery switches off, the pump still works in auto mode (that was not the case on my 2012).

On my to do list is to still install my high water alarm, and eventually a secondary bilge. Since picking up the new boat, haven’t had the free time, and working on a boat in 95+ degree weather is just not enjoyable!!