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Chart Plotter Placement on newer boats with connext? Simrad Go7 installed

@dman530. The only parts that I bought were the Ram mounts. There was enough cable length to allow me to splice into the accessory power (the one that looks like a cigarette lighter) behind the helm. The fuse for the helm accessory power is 20 amps, and I think that the in-line fuse that came with the chartplotter was only something like 3 amps, so I figured that it would be safe to splice.
I bought a bunch of Ram mount bits but settled on using these ones for the install:
6" arm: RAM-B-201U-C
Mount for chartplotter: RAM-B-202-G2U
Mount for boat: RAM-B-202U

If I were to do it again, I'd consider using a larger ball size. My Ram mounts have 1" balls. I find that after a some big waves on the way to/from Bimin, the chartplotter settles (moves about a half inch). Although it doesn't impact functionality, it's not a good thing if you're OCD. Maybe a larger ball size would prevent this.
@MrMoose Thanks for your help, you have saved me time! Did you use self tapping screws it nut and screws to attach the base?
 
@MrMoose , one last question, did you wire yours to the accessory plug or ignition switch? Also did you wire it where you can turn it on with the boat off and ignition switches off? (power to it all the time) Again, thanks for your info
 
@dman530
I wired it to the accessory power connected to the cigarette lighter style marine outlet in the helm. The circuit gets power without the ignition on, nor engines running. Pretty sure that it has it's own line to the fuse box where it's fused at 20 amps. I have both my vhf and chartplotter running on this circuit. Both the vhf and chart plotter have fuses of their own (I think around 3-5 amps from memory) so neither of them should blow the 20 amp accessory circuit fuse.
 
I didn't realize those cigarette lighter outlets were 20 amps!
I put in a fusebox because I will be adding a radio, plotter, led lights and putting another outlet near the throttles where I normally keep my phone!

@dman530 i personally would put a shut off switch in case you ever leave the boat in the water over night and have to keep your bilge pump on.
Call me over kill.
 
I didn't realize those cigarette lighter outlets were 20 amps!
I put in a fusebox because I will be adding a radio, plotter, led lights and putting another outlet near the throttles where I normally keep my phone!

@dman530 i personally would put a shut off switch in case you ever leave the boat in the water over night and have to keep your bilge pump on.
Call me over kill.
With respect to the shutoff switch. Don't bother. Just install a secondary bilge pump that is wired directly to the battery, so if you turn off the system via the Yamaha battery switches, you still have a bilge pump.
 
That is my plan to add another bilge pump
 
If you add a second bilge pump, can it be spliced into the existing bilge exit line? Sorry if I'm hijacking.
 
If you add a second bilge pump, can it be spliced into the existing bilge exit line? Sorry if I'm hijacking.
It could be, but would drastically reduce the output if both ever have to run. You also will have to splice close to the output so you don't get blowback down the other line.

I'd just put a 2nd exit in.
 
If you add a second bilge pump, can it be spliced into the existing bilge exit line? Sorry if I'm hijacking.
My second pump was installed by my dealer and they gave it its own isolated outlet tube and through-hull fitting.
 
For the record, I haven't actually popped the cover of my fuse box to check what's in there. My 20 amp info comes from the fuse list in my AR240 shop manual. I can say that it can run both my chart plotter and my vhf at the same time.
 
@MrMoose do you remember what the dealer charged you to install second bilge?
I don't think I want to drill that hole myself
 
@Benny Sibbitt - It is easy to DIY. Just drill next to the existing outlet. I found the exact same black plastic through hull online and wakemakers has the same bilge line that Yamaha used. I used a johnson pump that had a float switch built onto the body. Less than $100 bucks in parts and less than an hour to install. The first hole is always the hardest mentally but it does get easier.
 
@Benny Sibbitt, regardless of whether you do it yourself or you get your dealer to do it, it's also a good time to have a water alarm installed down there too.
 
@MrMoose do you remember what the dealer charged you to install second bilge?
I don't think I want to drill that hole myself

It's nervewracking the first time. But, boy, I swear after that first successful hole I drilled, I was looking for any other reason to do more. LOL. It's quite easy, and noone else is gonna love your boat and take the kind of precautions you will before doing it.
 
@dman530, Mine is a 2015. Should be the same as yours. The area that I drilled through was pretty thick; you'll probably be fine with a screw. I had already purchased bolts, so I went with what I had on hand.
 
I definitely have an additional layer of glass, it's thin but still it's in the way, I'm trying how to figure out how to cut it.
 
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